Blown power supply ic for cd/dvd receiver da3620 no.not visible

F61 just equal 'power fault'
Generally a fault with either audio power amp ic (IC 501) or power supply ic IC 502.

As both said ICs get very got first remove bottom steel grill and with the power off and capacitors drained (shorted together with a low ohms resistor or leave unit powered down for a few hours) resolder the ICs legs if there are any signs of cracks aka dry solder joints.
Hope that helps.......

Check for a build up of lint in the exhaust duct, an excessive build up will block air flow.

Also 220VAC electric dryers use different legs of the electrical supply. (two 110VAC legs tied via a common neutral make 220 VAC) One 110VAC leg runs the motor and controls while the other supplies power to the heater.

It is possible that one side of the 220VAC has a blown fuse and is not supplying power to the heater element.

Other possibilities:

Blown out heater - requires replacement

There is a safety switch attached to the shaft of the motor. THis switch relys on centrifical force to close and is intened to kill the power to the heater if the motor and its attached blower stop turning.

If the motor is not turning fast enough of the switch is worn then it is possible that power to the heater circuit is not being completed. It doesn't take must of a speed reduction to cause a problem. Lint build up on the drum bearings can cause enough drag to slow the drum slightly. Combined with a worn/dirty switch and the switch fails to operate.

Finally there is a blower attached to the motor shaft. The blower is made of plastic and somtimes the blower comes loose on the shaft. Usually you hear a rattling sound or sounds after the dryer drum stops as the loose spinning blower spins to a stop. ( A tight blower stops with the dryer drum) A loose blower doesn't move enough air and causes your dryer to run longer.you can find about uniforms: https://www.mysocceruniform.com/customsocceruniforms.html

That 5-leg component is an IC, more likely to be switch mode power supply IC. What is the make and model of this product? What is this product? Pictures will help a lot.
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Chances are you have shorted output transistors,check with ohm meter across all 3 legs,there should be no shorts if good.. cost on average around 150.00

Look at the power supply first; look for burnt parts, bad capacitors, etc.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
Please post back what you find

Your TV is experiencing a convergence issue as indicated by the 3 blinks. The only way to fix this is replacing the convergence ICs. It is not a hard task to replace these ICs. You just need to know how to solder and work on printed circuit boards.

The convergence ICs are mounted on a large heat sink and are marked with codes starting with the letters STK and there are two of them. You need to replace both.

Look for the heat sink with two ICs mounted on it and check the markings.

Once found, cut the IC legs with a small side cutter and unscrew it from the heat sink. Remove the legs left soldered on the board.

Take note of the IC markings for ordering the right part and how it was installed. Don't forget to buy along with the IC a thermal compound.

Check the pico fuses on the same board. Most likely you will find a blown one. These fuses look very much like a resistor, not like the usual transparent fuse, and usually yellow.

Once you have the replacement ICs, put it on the board in the same way as it was installed before. Make sure the screw holes are aligned before soldering the legs into the board.

Put a reasonable amount of thermal grease/compound between the ICs and the heat sink and fix them with the screws.

Double check the board for any splash of solders that might cause a short circuit and damage the board.

blue two legged varacter on power supply board needs to be replaced

gargame,

good day, if you already replaced the fuse and still keeps on blowing it again. you still have a short circuit somewhere within the power supply area or board.try to check if there are any other blown parts or slightly expanded shape part specially for capacitors near the power supply area .

2) If you do have multi tester and have some basic knowledge with component checking try to check the polyswitch protector, this is connected parralel to AC supply right after the fuse before going to voltage rectifier diode.

3) if it doesn't have a polyswitch protector check the polarity of your rectifier diode, maybe 1 of this 4bridged diode is shorted.

cheers,
mark

The schematic is available from Rockford.

It's possible that the outputs have blown. They generally short from the center leg to the third leg when they fail.

Unless you have experience working with the MEHSA insulators, you may want to buy the entire MEHSA strip from Rockford. You can replace the transistors on the insulators but you have to use a torch to heat the strips.