Where is the defrost timer in a maytag plus side by side also how do i test its operation

http://www.youserguide.com/wiki/Whirlpool_MSB2354GRW_parts-004

http://www.youserguide.com/wiki/Whirlpool_MSB2354GRW_parts-005

See Section 13. The part is on page 4.

Here is a Sears site:

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/3wgy1ddk5e-003048

https://www.partselect.com/Refrigerator+test-defrost-timer+repair.htm

Hope this helps.

isolate it from the heater and defrost timer power circuits, then it must be below 15 degrees F. to test correctly,if warm it will test bad(open)as its a thermal bi-metallic switch operated by cold temperatures

Hello there,
When you are experiencing ice build up in your refrigerator, it simply is due to a faulty defrost unit. The defrost unit is composed o9f the defrost timer, defrost thermostat and the defrost heater. Once the freezer is building up ice, the defrost unit turns on the heater, then the defrost thermostat turns off the compressor while the defrost timer, settings the routine timing for the activity.
Once a component out of the three develops a fault, the routine is stopped and then ice begins to build up in the back of the freezer or at the bottom depending on the type of refrigerator it is.
The solution to the problem is for you to have the defrost timer, defrost heater and defrost thermostat tested, that way you will be able to tell the faulty component and replace it with a new one.
To carry out the testing and replacing of these components, please read this tips, it will guide you on testing the components and replacing them.
Defrost thermostat http://www1.fixya.com/support/r10513592-test_defrost_thermostat http://www1.fixya.com/support/r10513650-replace_defrost_thermostat
Defrost timer http://www1.fixya.com/support/r10523722-test_defrost_timer http://www1.fixya.com/support/r10523742-replace_defrost_timer
defrost heater http://www1.fixya.com/support/r10523771-test_defrost_heater http://www1.fixya.com/support/r10523754-replace_defrost_heater
Hope this was helpful to you. All the best. Elect_Comp

There are many different ways a refrigerator will do this. But I will focus on the most likely and that will be either the 68233-2 Defrost Timer or the=> 61005989 Auto Damper Click Here=> MSD2436GRW_Controls and in that photo you will see the location's 13 and 8. Here are the instructions for testing the auto damper=> 61005989 Auto Damper Test Instructions Look into the rear of your freezer and tell me if ice or a layer of frost is covering the rear panel. If yes try to turn the defrost timer clockwise slowly untill refrigerator stops or manually defrost with a hair dryer. If the refrigerator defrost after turning defrost timer then just replace timer. Refrigerator will usally take 25 minutes after that time the refrigerator does not come on simply turn th timer clockwise until it starts. If defrost is not the problem then it is time to test the auto damper. There are a few other test like testing the defrost heater= HERE Here is the freezer compartment parts breakdown=> MSD2436GRW_Freezer_Compartment and part 12 in that photo is the=> 61006116 Defrost Heater Assembly with Defrost Thermostat
I will be here on Fixya or Here if you have questions, Thanks Sea Breeze
If helpful please rate this solution.. Thank You

You have a problem with your defrost system. The defrost heater is not coming on to thaw the frost that builds up on your evaporator coils. This restricts the airflow to the ref side. You will need to find out which component needs to be replaced it could be your defrost control, defrost thermostat, or defrost heater. The heater and thermostat are located behind the freezer panel. The heater can be ohmed out with a meter and tested for continuity, the thermostat will usually be popped out if its bad. If both of these parts are good then the problem is your defrost control, my model look-up is down right now but it could be a circuit board or just a standard "timer" style control.

Hope this helps _MJ_

Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.

If the ice is on the floor of the freezer
Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.
OR
If the ice is on the back of the freezer
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

I think your voltage is fine I just believe the defrost timer is worn out and not cycling properly resulting in less defrost and higher refrigerator temperatures. Thanks, sea Breeze

The parts manual on that refrigerator show a defrost timer inside the fresh food compartment behind the control panel. Need you to turn the timer clockwise with a flathead screwdriver slowly until the compressor stops. Leave it alone for 30 minutes and if it does not turn itself back on then we need to replace the timer. If not we need to unplug the refrigerator and remove the back panel inside the freezer. We will need to test the defrost heater and inspect the defrost thermostat. Let me know when you are ready. The part number for the timer is 68233-3

Item number 13 top right hand side of photo.
Let me know if I can help, Thanks Sea Breeze

SITE-> http://servicepartstec.blogspot.com/

Most refrigerators have a damper door that is controlled by a knob that lets some air from the freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment there is also a fan that blows this air into the refrigerator. Sometimes when the defrost timer quits and ice forms it causes this fan to break or quit .Please understand the original problem was probably caused by the adaptive defrost circuit or defrost timer which is still failing Also the unit needs to be defrosted completely and the evaporator fan checked for proper operation.there is a way to put the unit in the defrost mode.Usually there is a diagram on Maytags stuffed under the thermostat panel .Make sure to unplug when probing or testing or have knowledge of how to work on live circuits .

If the "relay" is the bimetal clipped to the top of the coils , then the adaptive defrost timer is bad . Pt # 61005988 .This small electronic board , is located in the control panel .