Maytag MBB2256GES Bottom Freezer Refrigerator Logo

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Anonymous Posted on Jul 11, 2012

I have a may tag MBB 2254 G /2256 G refrigerator. The machine was not cooling, pulled the back and front panels and vacuumed out, full of dust, lint etc. I plugged back in, let go for a hour or so, a little cooling but not much. The compressor seemed fairly hot. I could hear the relay cycling I assume to kick the compressor. After several seconds hear another relay click. I do not feel any coldness on the compressor copper lines. The back fan is running, the interior fan is circulating. My question is: is there a manual reset on the compressor, or is it an automatic reset? I assume there is an over heat limit switch on the compressor. Currently I have unplugged the matching and am circulating air ( room fan ) in hopes that the compressor might reset, or might you think the compressor is gone?

1 Related Answer

Anonymous

  • 700 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 28, 2009

SOURCE: Fan running,both cold settings at 4 , freezer 14 degrees C

you need to replace the start components on the compressor, theres a relay that mounts on to the compressor that takes out the start winding after it starts the compressor up. You can also try whats called a three in one to try to start up the unit. Good Luck.

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"Vacuum condenser" light flashing. What do I do?

It sound like you will have to pull the refrigerator out and remove the back panel and vacuum the lint build up on the condenser coils. they may be accessible form the front by removing the front grill.
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First , remove the bottom kick plate , and vacuum the coils . They have to be clean of dust , lint , pet hair , etc . Then pull the refrig out , and remove the lower panel , to expose the compressor and cooling fan . This fan HAS to be working , to cool the compressor AND the coils . If not running ( fan ) , check for an obstruction of paper , insulation , etc , and remove the cause . If not being obstructed , and not running , replace the fan motor . Afterwards , be sure to reinstall the back panel , as this panel , helps pull the airflow across the coils , and compressor . The strip between the doors , has part of the coils behind it , and will get hot , if the coils in front are dirty , or , the fan behind the refrig is not working .
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Middle column between doors is very hot

You need to pull the refrig out and remove the back panel , covering the compressor and fan . If the fan is not running , check for something caught in the fan blade . If nothing is found then replace the fan motor . Also make sure the coils at the bottom in front , are clean of dust , lint , pet hair , etc .
The fan , helps keep the compressor and the coils cool , including the ones behind the middle column .
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Remove the bottom kick panel , and check that the coils are clean of dust , lint , pet hair , etc . Next , pull the refrig out from the wall , and remove the back panel . Check to see if the fan , cooling the compressor is working . If not , it should be replaced .
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Refrigerator not cooling / fan not turning

Yes , replace the fan motor . Part number 833697 . Also make sure the coils are clean of dust , lint etc. Be sure to reinstall the back panel , after replaceing the motor , as this motor cools the coils and the compressor . ( only 3 screws hold the fan motor on , easily repaired .)
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The panel between the freezer and refrigerator heats up - too hot to touch for a while then cools off again. GD5SHAXLT01

You need to clean the coils under the front of the refrig of dust , lint , pet hair , etc . Pull the refrig out and remove the back panel covering the compressor . Make sure the fan there , next to the compressor is working . Usually , if this fan is not working , the center strip gets very hot , and the compressor may cut off , from getting too hot . The compressor can burn out , if the fan doesn't work for a while .
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Not keeping things cold enough even on the highest setting even after vacuuming out bottom vent

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
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Bottom of refrigerator not getting cold enough, freezer is working fine, - Magic Chef -model MCBR1000w

have you cleaned out the coils underneath the fridge? it's very simple. pull the fridge out, look underneath(try pulling off the bottom grill from the front for more access), and start cleaning. to much dust and lint will hinder the coils from cooling. A vacuum with the brush attachment or little broom works good.
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Not cooling it is on and has been working fine, but woke up today and everything is melting- being thawed out - freezer is not cold

Hi there,

You need to check Condenser -
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

Good Luck!!

Thanks
2helpful
1answer

I have a Samsund SRS579NP both fridge and freezer not getting to right temperature. I don't think that the temp gauge is working properly. the fridge says that it is -1 degree but its deffiantly not that...

My first thought is dirty condenser coils (the coils on the bottom of the refrigerator behind the kick panel). You wouldn't believe how much impact a large accumulation of dust and lint on these coils can have on the efficiency and operation of a refrigerator. It's also one of the least expensive 'fixes'... It's FREE.

Remove the front kick panel and, with a flashlight, look at the horizontal coils under the refrigerator. If they are covered with a thick layer of dust and lint, you can almost be assured that this is the problem. They make tapered brushes specifically made for cleaning these coils, but any long slim brush that you can get between them to clean off the accumulation of dirt is better than nothing.

You can do a more thorough job if you pull the refrigerator out and remove the back panel to clean from both front and back. Be sure to unplug the refrigerator while you do this to avoid the condenser fan from coming on while you're working. It's always advisable to use a vacuum attachment to actually REMOVE the dust and lint from the bottom of the refrigerator rather than leaving it under there to be drawn back up into the coils very quickly after you've cleaned them off.

There's no specific definition of 'clean' coils, but my advise is to clean them as thoroughly as you can and be sure to clean off the small condenser fan as well.

Put the panels back in place and plug the refrigerator back in. This should do the trick. Dirty condensers can make you think your whole refrigerator just when ka-pooey when this easy (although somewhat dirty) task can make it run like new again.

Hope this helps.
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