Yes, there are relay type switches associated with those outputs. Your RX-V1 is not dying.
Just plug a pin plug in and out of the dead channel to bump the switch. You will hear the speaker
come on. If it doesn't come on,do the plug jack in an out of the pre out again. It will come on.
You can use the test tone to check all channels and rebalance volume levels. You are making the
pre out connect to its power amp. It seems the problem got better when activating those switches. Most likely a cleaning issue. You can also jump the mains and center, and there is also
a modification to jump all channels. I bought my RX-V1 very cheap because of this and love it.
Of course outboard power amp would solve all, but getting this reciever to connect to it's own
power amp has been thrilling as far as bang for the buck. I do use the front effects also, and like
them. It may seem like a pain, but it is worth it to get those channels going.
You can try all these temporary solutions but it is a real pain to lose you audio in the middle of a great movie.
I just fixed by RXV1 which was losing Center, Left and Right Surrounds. Mains never had a problem and Sub never had a problem.
Go to yamaha24x7(dot)com and buy 2 pcs of V806700 (black RCA connectors in PreAmp connctor bank); 4 pcs of V454850 (red/white RCA connectors in PreAmp connector bank).
Move the RXV1 to a sturdy work table (very very heavy!!).
-Remove 4 screws from left chassis panel. Lift panel up and pull away from chassis to remove.
-Remove right chassis panel the same way.
-Remove top cover by unscrewing two top screws and two screws in top-rear corners.
-Lift cover off and set aside.
-Remove bottom panel by resting the RXV1 on right side and unscrew 12 screws holding in bottom plate.
-While the chassis is tipped up, remove the black screw in near the middle support bar. This screw is found on the green circuit board near the support bar and is securing the audio board which you need to remove from the chassis.
- Set the RXV1 back down such that all cards are up and visible.
- There a a long string of black philip head screws between the PreAmp output connectors in the back (between the red and while RCAs). Remove all of them to be able to take out the audio card.
- At this point, you will need to attach a ground strap from your wrist to the chassis to control static discharge and ruining your electronics.
- The audio card is made up of two cards connected together. At the junction between the larger card connected to the main board, and the small card with all the connectors, gently separate the two cards by pulling the large card away from the small card.
- remove the small wire connector at the top of the small card with all the connectors.
-remove the large card from the main board by gently lifting from back to front (two inserting connectors in main board holding card).
-I DID NOT remove the ribbon connector from the short connector card. I just place a board across the RXV1 chassis and did my unsoldering and soldering on this board.
-I used a solder wick to remove the solder from lowest two (red/white) connectors, the next two black/black connectors, skip the connect with Black body (only one in this line), remove last two red/white connectors.
- each connector is held in by 6 metal solder points plus 2 plastic holding tabs through the audio board.
- Wick out all the solder from the 6 solder holes, and use a small flush cutting diagonal wire cutter and razor blade to cut off the plastic holders flush with the circuit board holes.
- once loose, pull firmly to remove completely. Set this component aside and do not mix in with new components.
- remove all of the lower RCA connectors except the 5th from the bottom. The solder pins on this is also different.
- when reinserting the new RCAs, work from the one left up and down toward the outsides. This will make insertion easier.
- Use a PC grade solder with resin and solder all the pins to the audio card. If pin is not visible, remove connector and straighten the pin to feed through the hole.
- reinstall and reconnect the boards,
- screw in card holding screw.
-reassemble chassis.
Done.
Good luck.
This is the method Yamaha service does or tells you to do. The problem comes from the vendor Yamaha used for these RCA connectors. The internal spring pressure is too low and cleaning them wont be a permenant fix.
P.S. The part #'s are V4548500 $7.49+tax ea. (need 4) and V4806700 $8.11+tax ea.(need 2) and shipping is $7.95 as of 1/8/13
The problem was with the original vendor of the parts. The problem was solved in Yamaha with new parts. My system is still working great and problem has been permanently solved.
My solution post is very difficult to read. This is from the format FixYa uses in paragraphs. My advice would be to buy the parts then read my post and everything will make sense.
Hello, Yamaha24x7 no longer supply the v4548500's however they do have the v4806700's. Does anyone know if they are mechanically the same switch other than color coding of the jacks? If they are the same I'll purchase 6 of these.
Thanks,
Bill
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My unit does the same thing, I read online to install a RCA Patch cord from Main-In to Main Out and it worked.
I contacted Yamaha and they wanted to charge me to fix the issue and they will not fix it under warranty because I did not buy the unit from a authorized Yamaha dealer. Obviously a design flaw.
My unit does the same thing, I read online to install a RCA Patch cord from Main-In to Main Out and it worked.
I contacted Yamaha and they wanted to charge me to fix the issue and they will not fix it under warranty because I did not buy the unit from a authorized Yamaha dealer. Obviously a design flaw.
Https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hNIPbCgNWzE&t=166s
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tcPTqftDyPs
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Usually answered in minutes!
I have been having a similar issue recently. My RX-V1 occasional would drop out a channel. At first it was the center channel, then it worked for a few months and the left channel dropped for a while. More recently the left stopped working almost 100% of the time and sometimes the right channel stops.
Very rarely these channels would start working again on their own the next time I turned on the receiver. Sometimes I could get them to work again by unplugging and reconnecting my subwoofer to the receiver. It seems to make no sense that this would work, but I read this tip a couple of years ago when the problem first appeared. It doesn't seem to work anymore though.
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