SOURCE: Cub Cadet Riding Lawn Mover with Kohler Engine -
you need to change your ,and if you already have,the light come on evevy 50 hours to let you know to change your oil, the light will go out after about 2 hours,there is a way to reset it in your owner manual, I just unhooked my battery and it reset
Testimonial: "Thanks much for very fast response. Don't remember seeing this in manual. Expect this to work. Was puzzling.,"
SOURCE: how to replace the drive belt on a 2006 cub cadet
Use the link below to download the manual for free.
http://www.cubcadet.info/Manuels/2005/Tracteurs/LT1042-LT1045-LT1046-LT1050-Owner.pdf
SOURCE: cub cadet model LT1050, when
I believe the problem is a safety feature which is connected through the RMC, like the seat switch, just do a search for RMC on this PDF Manual it will show you how to check and what does what, Hope it helps and Good Luck Tim:
http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/DocGetter?doc=769-02100.pdf
SOURCE: CUB CADET MOWER KEEPS BLOWING
Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly
The service manual is here:
http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/GetFile.do?filename=769-02100.pdf
The wiring diagram is on page 84 of the manual.
Disconnect the positive and negative terminals from the battery and make sure they do not contact the chassis to form a ground. Read for a short with the key in run and lights OFF from the positive battery terminal to chassis ground. If you ar noting a short at this time you are literally going to have to chase wires. I would start by disconnecting the red wire from the PTO switch followed bythe red wire on the PTO relay. If the short goes away I suspect a problem with the wires at the PTO clutch as this is were many wiring problem manifest due to foreign objects thrown by the belt hit the wires on the clutch. After that I disconnect the engine connector and check again. Lastly I would disconnect the dash monitor connector and test again. If you still have the problem after disconnecting the engine harness and dash monitor there is a wire chaffing some where against the chassis. You can find it... it just takes a lot of time.
On another note...
You should probably make sure the ignition switch is not causing your problem.
Key switch testing connector removed
Off = M+G+A1 (continuity) Also read each one to the case of the switch
Run W/lights = B+A1+A2 and L (continuity) Read B + A2 to to the case of the switch.
RUN = B+A1 (continuity)
Start = B+S+A1 Read S to the case of the switch. (continuity)
Don't forget to remove the large (+) wire off of the start solenoid when troubleshooting or you will read the starter winding giving you a false ground.
Troubleshooting will end up being isloation of one leg of each wire at a time. I usually make a straight line sketch of wire temination points by wire color and connection on scratch paper for each wire I test and draw a single angle line across it after I have tested it.
If you determine that the problem is in the engine alternator, I will need your engine model number so I can get the service manual for that also.
A word to the wise.... if you disconnect a wire... write down color and where it was disconnected from on scratch paper. and line it out after you re-connect it. (experience)
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly
SOURCE: where does belt tensioner spring
go to this site and put your info in and you should find what you need
http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/Public.do?BrandCode=10051&langId=-1
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I had the same problem with my 1045 I checked all the normal things and as it turns out I discovered that my rule line was old enough that it turned soft and was kinked where the line goes through the frame and up through the floor behind the dash I replaced the line and was able establish good fuel flow.
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