Amp problems I have a small 400 watt visonik amp and 12". Its not my fist time to install, I've got all the right wires for the setup I'm sure. But after i installed I was driving and blummp it all stopped and the red protection light came on. As soon as I replace the fuse "POP" before i can even get it all the way in. Nothing seems wrong with it, it just keeps poping fuses. I checked all wires and ground and I can't find the problem.

Learn To Repair Car Audio Power Amplifiers





How To Tell If your Car AMP is Blown

Try flipping the speaker wire on the amp. ie. =Swap + and - ires

this is a dual voice coil sub. either have a 2 channel amp hook up to it. or have your mono amp have to sets of wires going out of it to your 2 connections. i dont suggest it but i have had one connection hooked up at a time played it when it blew hooked up the other connection as a back up. just make sure you have the right watt level for each voice coil.

Well you have a high impedance path to your amp. If you have an inline fuse that should have blown. Car batteries don't have a current limiting feature HA The only explanation would be that the amount of current passing through the wire is causing a large voltage drop due to a large impedance. What gauge wire are you using? Here is an example.

18 ft of 8 gauge wire would have to be passing about 400 Amps of DC current to yield a voltage drop of that magnitude. The wire would melt and all hell would break loose. So there has to be a break in your wire somewhere.

i would wire the coils of each sub in series which would yield an 8 ohm resistive load per sub - and then wire the subs in parallel to the amp which would bring the resistance back to 4 ohms for a bridged load which will give you max power handling from the subs and draw the full power of the amp at the same time

Hello storres18,

If you have the Kicker model number 06CVX122, with dual 2ohm voice coils, they can be connected to a mono amp at 2ohms. First jumper the voice coils in series, the dotted positive (+) to the undotted negative (-) (or vice versa). Each sub is now 4ohms. Then wire both of the remaining positives and negatives together on the amp terminals (in parallel). The amp sees a 2ohm load. Here's the diagram:


If you have the Kicker model number 06CVX124 with dual 4ohm voice coils, they cannot be wired to present a 2ohm load. They can only be wired as a 1ohm load (too low for the amp) or as a 4ohm load (at reduced power). Here is the diagram of the 4ohm wiring:


Hope this helps.

With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter probe on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red probe alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Here is a link to visonik to download manuals.
http://old.visonik.de/en/downloads.php

If you let me know your model number of the sub, vehicle make and model, and brand and model of headunit or CD player you have then i can provide wiring color codes, recommended wire routing locations, etc...

That's not a 1000w amp. It's a 400 watt amp when loaded to it's lowest rated load. If you have one speaker per channel (the only safe load if you have single 4 ohm coil speakers), you're only getting 165 watts/speaker. It's probably distorted because you're driving it to clipping.

check remote voltage first?