20 Most Recent Visonik VB212PKG Car Audio Amplifier Questions & Answers

Make sure the fuses aren't blown. There should be fuses on the amp itself and an in-line fuse in the live power wire near the car battery. If the fuses aren't blown, make sure the remote wire is connected from the head unit. Then re-check your power and ground connections. The ground should be solidly connected to the vehicle chassis in a paint-free location.

well, basically... the 12v (+) power wire is fused and hooked to the battery and ran to the amplifier, then run an amp turn on wire from you radio its usually blue with a white stripe (if you have an after market radio) then run the rcas from the radio to the amp and finally tap the ground (usually and cleaned bare-metal on your car close to the amp).... if you give me some more info i can help u further... what is the make/model/yr of your car, what radio do you have, amp, sub, speakers, etc....?

Well you have a high impedance path to your amp. If you have an inline fuse that should have blown. Car batteries don't have a current limiting feature HA The only explanation would be that the amount of current passing through the wire is causing a large voltage drop due to a large impedance. What gauge wire are you using? Here is an example.

18 ft of 8 gauge wire would have to be passing about 400 Amps of DC current to yield a voltage drop of that magnitude. The wire would melt and all hell would break loose. So there has to be a break in your wire somewhere.

Sounds like you might have the negative and positive crossed

If all else fails and you cannot find the correct pot for it then you might try using two resistors for each "layer" of the pot (there are probably two sections)that add up to 2K ohm and solder them in as a permenant setting to replace the pot. Maybe choose a value like 1.5K for one resister and .5K for the other. This would set your volumn to about three quarters of full. It's not necesarily a good solution, but it will get your amp going again. P.S. It may be a 2.5 K pot with two sections. Good luck.

Contact the manufacturer in the owners manual or from where you purchased the unit from, ask them where or who the manufacturer is. Good Luck

It sounds like your saying that you have two identical amp, that both are on the same power wires and remote wires and sam grounds? Well if thats the case then you did ok as One amp sounds like its blown. First tghing is check the main fuse. If its good and the unit still dosent resond then the power supply in the amp is blown as theres a switching supply that increases the 12 volts to get power to drive the Mosfet output devices. Was it ever working?? yes then the amp needs service. Do you know how to work on solid state elctronics down to componet level?? No?? Ok contact these folks at the addy im posting for you or take the amp to your local servicer. Good Luck. [email protected]

This usually involves removing the plastic bezel around the stereo. Sometimes these plastic bezels hold some buttons for air conditioning and heat, as well as the hazard lights button. These plastic bezels usually are just snapped in with metal clips on the back of them. You can pry them outward and with a good yank they will pop out. Once you have the plastic bezel around the radio removed, there will be 2-4 screws on the sides, or top and bottom. Once you remove those, the whole radio will pull right out of the dash. Then you have to un-clip the wire harness from the car, and unplug the antenna cable. If you plan on putting a different stereo in the car, KEEP the mounting bracket around the stereo, as well as the "wiring harness" that was used to plug into the vehicle harness. That will save you about $50 in parts to put a new stereo in.

To be absolutely sure of which terminal is positive and which is negative, we will use a 1.5 v battery to have the speaker react as though it is playing music.

* special note * do not use any more than 1.5 v as it may damage the speaker coil

As we know, batteries are marked positive, negative, or both ... we will use this to our advantage when hooking up the battery to our speaker.

To start the process, temporarily attach a short piece of wire to each terminal of the speaker (be sure to either use wire that is marked, or wire of differing colours to help determine which terminal is which). In our example, we used standard speaker wire which is "polarized" (one wire is made of copper and the other is made from tin .. interestingly, this serves no electrical purpose)

Once you have connected the wire to your speaker, proceed to briefly touch the free ends of the wire to the battery terminals (as shown below). In some cases, extended contact with the battery has caused cancer of the voice coil (ie. blown speaker)

If the speaker moves OUT when the battery is first connected, the battery is connected in proper alignment. Be sure to take note of which wire is connected to the positive terminal of the battery as this is your speaker's positive terminal.