Runs for a couple of minutes then cuts out

sounds like the thermal safety overload is cutting the power due to overheating hence why it just turns back on after a certain time, when the safety overload reaches a certain temperature it will cut the power to the machine or in some cases just the heating elements, once it cools down it resets and power is restored and by using the warm setting it obviously isn't as hot so its not overheating, its highly likely it is all blocked up internally with lint (i know it says self cleaning but they never work for more than a few years before requiring a proper clean and service)

Can you please post an image... That would be really helpful to see what you mean by gibberish

, push in and turn the control knob to the full on position (large flame symbol). If your hob has an ignition switch on the facia, press it in until your burner lights. • Hold the control knob in for 15 seconds then release. If the burner fails to light within this time, release the control knob and wait one minute before attempting to re-ignite.
or
Push in the control knob and after a couple of seconds press the ignition switch. • Hold the control knob in for 15 seconds then turn to desired heat, If the burner fails to light within this time, release the control knob and wait one minute before attempting to re-ignite.

Many newer cars have a safety feature that shuts the car down if oil level is low. check oil level if good may need to replace sensor.

pilot light keeps going out! more then likely its the thermal coupling doing this. if bad it shut all gas to heater for a safety measure. just shut power off, then turn gas off and replace it. then you should be ready to go. to relight heater hold down on gas vavle knob in the pilot position, hold down and light it at the coupling where gas comes out. when it is lit, continue to hold down for 60 seconds. release knob very slow. then if its lit, turn to the run position. if flme goes out, wait at least 5 minutes to expel the gas fumes and turn to pilot and try again. good-day !

turn gas knob to off, wait a minute, then turn knob to pilot. then press down on knob while lighting pilot, hold down at least 1 minute, then let the knob up slow. if it lights, then turn knob to run. if you can not light it after a few trys then the thermal coupling is bad and needs replaced. have a good day !

The LH models (LHS, Concorde, New Yorker, Intrepid, Vision) do have self-diagnostic capability with the standard type heater controls. I don't know about the Sebring heater controls (my '95 manual doesn't mention it) but if you have the various controlknobs/buttons that I will describe you could give it a try.
There is a rear window defogger that is initiated by a push button with an LED light. That light is the readout, by its blinking. To begin the diagnostic mode, run the vehicle at idle with the controls set as follows: the blower speed knob should be on any position other than OFF, the temperature knob should be set in full COOL, and the mode knob should be set on Defrost mode.
To enter the diagnostic mode, press the defogger switch in for five seconds, until it begins to blink, then release it. It will continue to blink for about 30 seconds while it calibrates. If it goes out, the calibration is OK and you can skip 3 paragraphs to "Position...mix mode" below.
If the light stayed on, switch the mode knob to the MIX (defroster-floor) position. If the light stays on there is a problem with the control head unit.
Switch the mode knob to the FLOOR position, if the light stays on, it indicates a problem in the blend door or the blend door actuator wiring.
Move the knob to the Bi-level (panel-floor) position where a continuous light indicates a problem with mode actuator or circuit.
Position the knob in the MIX mode. The LED light should now flash twice then pause, and continue a two-flash sequence, indicating that the MIX mode is OK.
In the FLOOR mode the light should flash three times, meaning that the FLOOR mode is OK.
In the Bi-Level Mode, a four-flash sequence indicates that mode is OK.
In the PANEL mode the light should flash 5 times to indicate no problems there, and in the recirc-panel mode 6 times and seven times in the recirc Bi-level mode.
The temperature control can be checked by switching the mode knob to Defrost and rotating the temperture knob. If the temperature contol is OK, the light will flash faster the more you turn the temperature knob up, until the light goes out at the hottest setting.
Switch the knob between Panel and Recirc-Panel and watch the recirc door (unit under the dash). Proper operation means that circuit and components are OK.
To get out of the self-diagnostic mode, turn off the blower or push the air conditioning button once.
If this doesn't seem to apply to your control head or you get no response from an LED light for the rear defroster, then the Sebring may not have this capability. Please let me know your results if any

I am assuming your talking about your ac. if so you can run a self diagnostic check, if you have manual temp control the led on the rear defogger can blink codes. turn car on, turn blower knob on(anyspeed), temp full cool, zone to defrost. press defogger button for 5 secs until it blinks. if it goes out 1st test is ok, rotate zone control and each section will be tested, the light will blink for each zone and then go out if it is ok, if it stays on this may be where your problem is.

read ur instruction Manuel .....u will find ur answer there......

there could be a few reasons for this but the first thing I would check would be the Thermal couple. If you do not know what that is I would call a qualified tech to come and replace it . they are easy to replace . It is also possible that the main board has shorted out but I would start with the thermal couple first.