Fisher Paykel GWL10US Washer won't spin

Hi artman,

Lift your cabinet top & lean it back, remove tub cover & lift out inner bowl, u will see a cover with a 10mm screw (3/8 might fit), once you have the cover off u can access the pump impellor & check for foreign objects. If none, soak up all the water (very Important) & re-assemble. Look under the machine & remove the pump, now u will know why i said to soak up the water, the pump twists out, look for burnt windings or worn bearings & replace pump if evident. Sometimes a burnt out pump takes out the motor control module (big bucks).

Note: If water gets into ur stator winding big expenses can occur

anaanymous

This sounds more like a timer issue, than a pump or hardware issue..seems that the time cycle for the spin is not running long enough. Ginko has it right..the timer module appears to be unhappy

NOT A SOLUTION, But a question for clarification.
You say it stopped on the spin cycle and had a inch left.
Did it finish the cycle or stop at mid cycle ?
If only an inch left , it seems the pump was partly working.

It looks like it has to be the control module.
You need to replace it .
It will cost you around $200 .

HI Of all washing machine parts, the water pump probably takes the most punishment, because it is constantly in use. When the pump fails, you can hear or see the trouble: a loud rumbling inside the machine, or a failure of the water to drain out of the tub. Here's what you can do to fix the problem:




Step 1: Check the drain hoses to make sure they are draining properly. Remove the water supply hoses from the back of the washer. With long-nosed pliers, extract the filter screens from the valve ports in the washer or from the hoses themselves. Wash the screens thoroughly. Then replace them and reattach the hoses. If the machine still rumbles or doesn't drain, examine the pump.

Step 2: To access the pump, first bail and sponge out any water in the machine's tub. Then tip the washer over on its front, using a heavy blanket or pad to protect the washer's finish. Remove the back service panel. The pump is usually located along the bottom of the machine, but with the unit tipped on its front it's easier to remove the pump through the back than through the bottom of the washer.

Step 3: Locate the pump. It has two large hoses attached to it with spring or strap clips. If the clips are the spring type, pinch the ends of the clips together with pliers to release them, and slide the clips down the hoses. If the clips are the strap type, unscrew the metal collar to loosen the clamp. Disconnect the hoses by pulling them off the connections. If the hoses are kinked or crimped at these connections, straighten them as best you can and reconnect them. Then try the machine again to see if this kinking was causing the problem. If the machine still doesn't drain, you'll have to remove the water pump.

Step 4: To remove the pump, loosen the bolt that holds the drive belt taut and move the washer motor on the bracket to loosen the belt. Move the motor out of the way and unbolt the pump; it's usually held by two or three hex-head bolts located on the bottom of the pump housing. As you loosen the last mounting bolt, support the pump with your hand. Then lift the pump out of the washer.

Step 5: You should take the pump apart if you can, because the trouble could be lint, dirt, or pieces of cloth or paper clogging the pump impeller. Clean away all debris inside the pump and clear any debris out of the water tubes. Then reassemble the pump. Hook up the pump again and test it. If cleaning the pump doesn't put it back into working order, or if the pump housing can't be removed, replace the pump with a new one of the same kind.

Step 6: To install the new pump, set it into position and connect the mounting bolts to the pump housing. Move the motor back into position. Tighten the drive belt on the motor by prying it taut with a hammer handle or pry bar; it should give about 1/2 inch when you press on it at the center point between the two pulleys.

Step 7: Reconnect the hoses leading to the pump.

If you tested all other parts, then probably you have to replace the cycler/timer assembly.

You find part here.

Hi

Check the main panel....When you put it in diagnostic mode, can you make the water recirculate?

If not: You already know how to drain it and tip it back so you are halfway there. Get a large shallow pan under the diverter valve to catch the water and remove the hose connections from the diverter valve. I'll bet you find something or things blocking the div valve's inlet. Take the valve out and clear all the crud out, reassemble as it was and see if it works.

Good Luck

Genius Guy

Have u check ur wiring component in panel?

HI,

If your washer won't spin, check these:


It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

• Ifthe motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley ora broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from thewasher and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turnfreely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is brokenor looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulleybefore you change the belt.



• If the motor isn'trunning, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machinecan't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside thewashing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have toraise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to theswitch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

• Thelid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn'tspin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near thedoor frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of thewashing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need toreplace it.



• The motor coupler may be broken. ManyWhirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensivemotor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft ofthe motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time,the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.



• Abelt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If abelt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuinebelt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designedwith special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)



• Theclutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to comeup to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may preventthe unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you needto replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualifiedappliance repair technician.



• The drive motor may bedefective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation themotor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It'spossible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue tooperate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entiremotor.



• The transmission may not be shifting properly.Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with anelectro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partiallydefective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complexsystem, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire aqualified appliance repair technician to repair it.



• Thespin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These componentsallow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this isthe problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Calla qualified appliance repair technician.