20 Most Recent Fisher and Paykel IWL12 Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

HiTo solve the beeping and lid lock light flashing and the machine not doing a spin dry. Do the following.I have a SIMPSON EZI SENSOR 8Kg top loader. This is what I did.WARNING HIGH VOLTAGE. switch the power off and unplug the machine.DO NOT do this if you are not familiar with working with high voltages.To get access to the lid lock switch,1. Remove 2 screws at the rear of the washer.2. Remove 2 screws at the front of the machine located under the lid and covered by small round plastic plugs.The top cover can now be raised gently from the front.3. Remove the 2 screws that hold the lid switch.4. Remove the clear plastic cover from the lid switch.5. DANGER HIGH VOLTAGE ( Verify that power is off)6. Find 2 blue wires these go to a magnetic reed switch (25mm long 3mm Diameter).Cut the blue wires and discard the reed switch. insulate the ends of the blue wires and push them back into the track in different directions so there is no possibility that they can make contact with each other.7. Find 2 white wires these go to a set of contacts that are mechanically closed by the solenoid.8. Pull out the contacts and the 2 white wires.9. Cut the white wires at the contacts, strip 5mm of plastic off the wires and twist them together, The wires will have corrosion, clean them with sand paper, they must make good contact. I recommend that you solder them together.10. Insulate them and push them back into the track.11.Reassemble starting with fitting the clear plastic cover. Your good to go BUT BUT BUT,WARNING The Lid safety protecting during the spin dry cycle will no longer function,So don't do this if you need the safety of the lid closed during the spin cycle. Remove 2 screws at the back of the machine

Fisher and... • Answered on Jun 26, 2020

RPS sensor fault. You have to remove the rotor bowl then loosen the 4 bolts holding the copper stator so you can pull it down far enough to take off the RPS sensor. Look for corrosion on the wiring plug if it has a plug. Some are hard wired all the way back up to the control board. If no plug corrosion it will probably have to be replaced but really needs testing with a special RPS testerv to make sure it is faulty.

Fisher and... • Answered on Feb 22, 2020

one of the suspension rods is eith not attached or broken

Fisher and... • Answered on Apr 21, 2018

if its a top loader the code is for a faulty cold water solenoid,some a new one will not fix the problem if so then itsd a faulty main board

Fisher and... • Answered on Apr 21, 2018

both have to be removed, pump has two wire connections and then turn pump anticlockwise after pulling back te locking clip, diverter valve has two or three hoses a screwed on clip and a wire connector, remove and look down each hose connecter for anything that may jam it check the pump windings are all one even colour if not pump needsrepacing

Fisher and... • Answered on Apr 21, 2018

the R.P.S or rotory postition sensor is faulty or the connections are corroded

Fisher and... • Answered on Nov 20, 2017

First confirm the source of the leak. Dry the pump and all areas around it. Run a wash cycle and then check pump again. You should be able to see where the leak starts from. If it is definitely the pump, it is easy to remove. Take off wire plug & earth wire. Hold out the white plastic clip on the side of the pump and rotate pump quarter turn anti clockwise. Pump will then come out. Do the reverse to put pump back. Make a note of which way the pump faces before you take it out. Also, make sure power is unplugged before you do any work.

Fisher and... • Answered on Sep 07, 2017

First question that comes to mind is why you would want to have a machine if their is no service support where you live. I assume you have done the basics like taking hose off machine inlet and pointing it in to a tub, turn tap on and make sure there is a good supply of water. Put hose back on machine, fully open tap & start (on cold supply). Lift lid while it is filling. Check that a strong flow is coming in to machine. Then repeat with the hot tap. If water is only trickling in & sounds like it is struggling then more than likely it needs a new inlet water valve.

Fisher and... • Answered on Jul 18, 2017

It sounds like you may have a loose connection somewhere and you are loosing power to the machine, worst case scenario there an issue with the motor controller module.

I dont understand the door flop down, these should lock unless of course the motor locking unit is buggered causing the system to restart.

Fisher and... • Answered on Jun 06, 2016

this can be a motor control fault, and sometimes a fault with the motor itself, test motor windings for equal resistance, and check motor physically for wear / damage. replace motor controller.

Fisher and... • Answered on Jan 04, 2016

It's under the "lifestyle" section of the wash selection menu. It was called "Clean me" on my machine

Fisher and... • Answered on Nov 08, 2014

If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Viewing it in "Mosaic" or "Magazine" will make surf easy. Pull up older posts. Surf the site with patience. Do a search by type in the brand name of your device at its search box. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/

Fisher and... • Answered on May 20, 2014

Not finding what you are looking for?
Fisher and Paykel IWL12 Top Load Washer Logo

247 questions posted

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines Experts

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8221 Answers

Michael Thomas
Michael Thomas

Level 3 Expert

3056 Answers

Gerry Harvey
Gerry Harvey

Level 3 Expert

1482 Answers

Are you a Fisher and Paykel Washing Machine Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

View Most Popular

Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines

  • Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines

Most Popular Question

fix error code 240 looking from bottom

  • Washing Machines