Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


For the F&P machine.
Check the circuit board fuse. I had my machine do exactly the same thing. Just wouldn't power up at all, no lights, nothing.
The fuse is on the circuit board a small round red unit, with T1.6A250V written on the top.
Remove the 2 screws securing the control panel. Inside there is a grey plastic box. This houses your circuit board. You will need to have a multi meter and a soldering iron to replace this component.

Fisher and... | Answered on Oct 20, 2020


Check the pipes actually work first. Is there a hidden drain filter that is partially blocked? Dissasemble the pump and check it works and the blades inside are clean.

Fisher and... | Answered on Oct 20, 2020


I had the same problem.... It would stop on the rinse cycle and beep.  Check to make sure you can hear the water pump running or if you can just hear an electrical hum and then it quits, it may be a problem with the water pump.The water pump can be accessed by removing the tub, reach down the center of the agitator and remove plastic bolt, remove the stailess steel tub and then remove the plastic oval shaped cover at the bottom of the main tub to access the pump impellor.  Make sure the impellor turns freely, if it does not you may have a problem with the pump motor.  We had a gold chain go missing and it showed up wrapped around the pump shaft causing it to bind at times.  It took me two tries to fix it but now it runs 100%.

Fisher and... | Answered on Oct 19, 2020


It would help if you gave the model number. If it is a normal washsmart top load washing machine it should be simple as selecting the cold setting on panel. It only has cold warm or hot as the 3 selections. If selecting cold does not just put cold water in and you are sure that the hoses are on the correct way, then there must be a fault with the machine. In that case phone the shop you bought it from and get it fixed under warranty. Make absolutely sure the hoses are correct first or you will get charged for the repair.

Fisher and... | Answered on Oct 15, 2020


Check on voltage to the drain pump and if present during the rinse and after wash cycle but failing to drain out, then the drain pump is faulty.
Remove the drain pump and check coils , if open then replace pump.
Other wise clean the pump and reset.

Fisher and... | Answered on Oct 14, 2020


You need to be more detailed in the description. What is the fault code & is it the same code as before the pump was changed? Why did you change the pump? Was the old pump tested & proven to be faulty or did you just change it in the hope that it would fix the fault? I have changed many F&P smartdrive pumps & never seen or heard of any having a fuse. The only fuse is on the main control board, soldered in. If that had blown the machine would not power up, so fuse must be okay. Start from scratch & say what the error code is.

Fisher and... | Answered on Aug 12, 2020


Hi
To solve the beeping and lid lock light flashing and the machine not doing a spin dry. Do the following.
I have a SIMPSON EZI SENSOR 8Kg top loader. This is what I did.
WARNING HIGH VOLTAGE. switch the power off and unplug the machine.
DO NOT do this if you are not familiar with working with high voltages.

To get access to the lid lock switch,
1. Remove 2 screws at the rear of the washer.
2. Remove 2 screws at the front of the machine located under the lid and covered by small round plastic plugs.
The top cover can now be raised gently from the front.
3. Remove the 2 screws that hold the lid switch.
4. Remove the clear plastic cover from the lid switch.
5. DANGER HIGH VOLTAGE ( Verify that power is off)
6. Find 2 blue wires these go to a magnetic reed switch (25mm long 3mm Diameter).
Cut the blue wires and discard the reed switch. insulate the ends of the blue wires and push them back into the track in different directions so there is no possibility that they can make contact with each other.
7. Find 2 white wires these go to a set of contacts that are mechanically closed by the solenoid.
8. Pull out the contacts and the 2 white wires.
9. Cut the white wires at the contacts, strip 5mm of plastic off the wires and twist them together, The wires will have corrosion, clean them with sand paper, they must make good contact. I recommend that you solder them together.
10. Insulate them and push them back into the track.
11.Reassemble starting with fitting the clear plastic cover.
Your good to go BUT BUT BUT,

WARNING
The Lid safety protecting during the spin dry cycle will no longer function,
So don't do this if you need the safety of the lid closed during the spin cycle.





Remove 2 screws at the back of the machine

Fisher and... | Answered on Jun 26, 2020


this normally a transducer fault in your main board,board will need replacing

Fisher and... | Answered on May 16, 2020


what reason do you have to remove the whole top, or did you mean the lid ?

Fisher and... | Answered on May 16, 2020


you may have tripped the board circuit, have you tried to reset it? read ur manual and it should show you how to reset it or try unplugging it for few minutes and plug back in..

WASHER WILL NOT START:

Power
If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (orreplace the fuse) if necessary.

Lid Switch
The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one,the switch MAY BE BADand will need to be replaced.Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch..
If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start.

Door Interlock
The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself.

Timer Knob
Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly.

Push start switchmay need to be tested with a multi meter for continuity OHMS should show a closed circuit when pushed in or turned on.
The start switchon some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in


Overheating
If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings.
By the way my advice is freecuzGod is good!


All washing machines use a motor that is responsible for spinning and agitating during the cleaning cycle. Many top load brands use a reversing motor which means the motor spins in one direction for agitating and another for spinning and draining. If the motor does not start, but makes a humming or buzzing noise then it may be defective. To verify if the motor is at fault, remove the drive and /or pump belts and then try to start the motor again. On direct drive models, you will have to disengage the pump and the direct drive coupling to the transmission. If the motor starts, then the problem is with the transmission or the pump and can be further diagnosed by reconnecting each one individually. If the motor does not start or continues to hum or buzz, then it will need to be replaced

Lastly CONTROL BOARD

If the control board does not provide the proper voltage to the drive motor, fill valve, drain motor or door lock then the washer may not start. The main control board on most washers is complicated and difficult to diagnose without proper test equipment and procedures. You can visually inspect the control for signs of electrical arcing or burned or damaged components on the board. You should use caution when replacing a control board as sometimes the burned components are caused by external component failures.



https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Washing-Machine-Repair-Help


http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Washer/Will-Not-Start/

Fisher and... | Answered on May 03, 2020


Hi just read your posting.Error Code 131 is called REPETITIVE ROTOR POSITION SENSOR ERROR..The 3 reasons this fault is appearing is 1--the wiring to the rotor sensor is faulty.--2--the rotor sensor is faulty.--3-- the motor controller is faulty.If you have or can borrow an electrical test meter I can help you test the wiring but to test the rotor sensor you need a tester called RPS tester.Please reply on how you would like to proceed an I will help you as much as I can.

Fisher and... | Answered on Apr 21, 2020


Hi,

code 43 is an out of balance switch problem.Once replaced, would fix the issue.

One trick that might work ;-

I unscrewed top cover, then unscrewed and lifted up the grey computer cover. The balance switch is underneath on the right with a yellow and white wire coming off.

I removed switch from clip and then removed the wires/clips from contacts. There was definitely corrosion on the contacts. I soaked switch overnight in vinegar. Then rinsed with water. Then dried switch out for day.

Put it all back together and am now on second load of washing.

Thanks.

Fisher and... | Answered on Apr 15, 2020


More info needed. What is the model number? Is it a top or front load machine? What is the error code displayed when it beeps? If it is a top load machine then while it is beeping take note of which lights are on and which are off along the top row of 8 lights. Count from left to right and note the number of the lights that are on.

Fisher and... | Answered on Mar 31, 2020


Change out out of balance switch which is under the control module

Fisher and... | Answered on Mar 28, 2020


RPS sensor fault. You have to remove the rotor bowl then loosen the 4 bolts holding the copper stator so you can pull it down far enough to take off the RPS sensor. Look for corrosion on the wiring plug if it has a plug. Some are hard wired all the way back up to the control board. If no plug corrosion it will probably have to be replaced but really needs testing with a special RPS testerv to make sure it is faulty.

Fisher and... | Answered on Feb 22, 2020


Hello, Keith -

I suggest you contact Fisher and Paykel Customer Care and ask your question directly. I have no idea the country where your washer was manufactured. Therefore, following are the links for country of manufacture:

USA: https://www.fisherpaykel.com/us/ Choose "Help & Support"

Canada: https://www.fisherpaykel.com/ca/ Choose "Help & Support"

New Zealand: https://www.fisherpaykel.com/nz.html Choose "Support"

Australia: https://www.fisherpaykel.com/au.html Choose "Support"

Fixya receives questions from people worldwide. I am answering from the USA.

Best wishes.

Fisher and... | Answered on Jan 09, 2020


Each light has a specific number, so to work out the error code we need to know which side you are counting from i.e. left to right or right to left. Makes a huge difference.

Fisher and... | Answered on Nov 29, 2019


This is error code 40.
40. (00101000) Basket Dis-engage Fault
While carrying out a basket check, the Motor Control Module has found that the basket is
not engaged even though the pressure sensor indicates that the basket is empty. The
Motor Control Module continues to check for 2 minutes, after which time it displays this
fault. The first two areas to check are the clutch and the pressure tube. If these two
appear correct, then the fault could be in the pressure sensor in the Motor Control Module.
Primary Source: Mechanical.
Action: 1) Check that there are no clothes or other foreign objects preventing
the clutch from re-engaging. Excessive suds can stop the basket
rotating.
2) If the machine is empty of water, carry out a clutch disassembly
procedure and check the spline drive.
3) Next check that the pressure tube has not come off and that it is
not kinked.
Secondary Source: Motor Control Module.
Action: Replace Motor Control Module.

Fisher and... | Answered on Nov 18, 2019

Not finding what you are looking for?
Fisher and Paykel Logo

4,245 questions posted

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines Experts

Michael Thomas
Michael Thomas

Level 3 Expert

3053 Answers

Marvin
Marvin

Level 3 Expert

85239 Answers

peter gittos
peter gittos

Level 2 Expert

247 Answers

Are you a Fisher and Paykel Washing Machine Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...