20 Most Recent Canon PowerShot SD750 / IXUS 75 Digital Camera - Page 11 Questions & Answers

Hello

The problem is that the lens has become stuck in the barrel. There are some DIY solutions you could try, but the probability is that you will have to get it fixed by a professional.

Use these at own risk as it may further damage the camera.

Firstly , try connecting your ac adapter or usb cable.

Try holding the shutter button while switching on the camera.

Look at the lens , and if some of the lens 'circles' is misaligned or not concentric then try wiggling it (while holding camera lens down).

Try gently pushing or pulling the lens when it extends but this is risky as it may cause the lens barrel to slip out of its guidance system.

Another way to do this is to place the camera lens down on a hard surface and then power it up. Be sure to use a soft cloth or something similar as to not scratch your lens or casing. Let the lens push the camera up and down a few times and sometimes the little resistance provided by the camera is enough to get things going again.

Try hitting your camera near the lens on the body with the soft tissue on the palm of your hand.

Other than that , I would take the camera to a repair centre for a evaluation to see if it would cost more to repair than to replace the camera.

If it is still under warranty I would suggest you take it in before trying any of these steps and remove any off-brand batteries or accessories as some stores are really fussy about warranty repairs on camera's with non-brand accessories.

You can also have a look at THIS link.

Hope the advise is useful. please do not hesitate to let me know if you need any further assistance. Also, please be so kind to let me know if you found this helpful.

Regards
Andrea

Try to check the battery terminals to make sure they are clean of rust and debris...
If this doesn' t help just let me know and I can give you some other troubleshooting tips

I had the same problem. I just added a piece of foam on top of battery where the lip close. Now it work like a charm

The best way to download pictures from your camera to your computer involves removing the memory card from the camera and plugging it into a card reader (either built-in to the computer or connected via USB or FireWire). This is likely to be faster than connecting the camera to the computer, and won't run down your camera's batteries.

Once the card is plugged in, it will appear to your computer as a removable drive. You can use the operating system's drag&drop facility to copy pictures from the card to the computer's hard drive, the same way you copy any other files. Or you can use Canon's ZoomBrowser or any other photo cataloging program.

The manual states that the battery door was opened during use. Close the battery door and turn it on and off. You may need to push it closed to make sure the battery connections are made.

Consider NOT connecting your camera to your computer.

The best way to download pictures from your camera to your computer involves removing the memory card from the camera and plugging it into a card reader (either built-in to the computer or connected via USB or FireWire). This is likely to be faster than connecting the camera to the computer, and won't run down your camera's batteries.

Once the card is plugged in, it will appear to your computer as a removable drive. You can use the operating system's drag&drop facility to copy pictures from the card to the computer's hard drive. Or you can use any photo cataloging program.

If you're using the software that came with the camera, it may be looking for new pictures only.

Check the settings on the PC.

Good day,

This is a common problem and sometimes can be fixed.
Please see details on my tip on how to fix this error here:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r7041378-digital_camera_lens_problems

Let me know if my tip was useful for your problem!

Regards

Deleting files like pictures or videos in camera memory card usually can be done via the camera itself or via PC. As long as your PC can read the pictures, you don't have to delete them via camera, but you can delete them via PC.
If you don't want those "ghost" picture stay still in your camera memory, you can select all and copy or cut all of your pictures to your PC (to make sure that there are no more pictures in your camera memory). You can format the memory card to make it new again (or not, its up to you), then you can copy back only your wanted pictures into the camera memory and leave the "unwanted" pictures in your PC.
This method can also reduce used memory in your camera.

Hope this help and be kind to rate this answer.
(^_^)

First take the memory card out of the camera. Pictures that have been deleted are probably still there, but will be overwritten if you take any more pictures on top of them.

Your camera is not able to undelete pictures, but there are programs for doing this on a computer. You can put the memory card into a card reader attached to a computer, and use an undelete program to recover the deleted files. Undelete programs are available for free download from the internet, try the one at THIS LINK

If the pictures are very important to you, you might want to seek help from an experienced person.

You can download the manual (and more) from the manufacturer's web site at
http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/support/consumer/digital_cameras/powershot_sd_series/powershot_sd750#BrochuresAndManuals

As a work-around, you should try using Picasa to download the pictures off of your camera.

Picasa is a free download from Google and has many cutting-edge features for picture management. I think that you'll like it.

• Download Picasa from their web site (click here) to your Desktop
• Once the Picasa file has completed downloading, Open the file and follow the directions displayed.
• Once you have Picasa installed, connect your Olympus camera. Picasa will recognize that you have connected the camera and ask you how you want to proceed.
• Have Picasa copy the images from your camera
• You can then use Picasa to handle the photos from your camera.

Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks for using FixYa and Happy New Year!

If it's "lens error", then check your lens for damage or being jammed.
If it's "lense error", then I don't know what a lense is.

Fixing a Lens Error on a Digital Camera

This has to be THE most common failure mode for a digital camera. Some common error messages that might show up on the LCD's of cameras with this problem include "E18 lens error", or "lens error, restart camera". Some cameras might show nothing at all, but merely make a beeping noise as the lens goes out, then in, then the camera shuts off. Sometimes the lens won't even move.

The problem is actually quite common throughout all camera brands. Usually it's sand or grit interfering with the lens extension mechanism. Or the camera's been dropped with the lens extended. Or the camera has been powered on, but the lens had been blocked preventing its extension. Or the battery ran down with the lens extended. Believe it or not, one BIG contributor to lens errors is using a camera case. Sand, gunk, case fibers, etc... accumulate at the bottom of the case. These materials love to cling to the camera by electrostatic build-up from the camera rubbing against the side of the case (especially those cases with soft fibrous intreriors). Once these materials work their way into the lens mechanism, that's all she wrote. I have many cameras, and NEVER use a case for this very reason.

A camera owner that suffers this problem may have no recourse for having the camera repaired. Many camera makers will not honor repairing this problem under warranty as they claim it is due to impact damage to the camera, or sand or debris getting into the lens gearing mechanism (neither of which is covered under warranty). The quoted repair cost is usually close to or more than what the camera is actually worth.

Fortunately, about half the cameras that suffer this failure can easily be fixed by one of the following methods. None of these methods involve opening the camera, although some have potential to cause other damage to the camera if excessively done. If the camera is still under warranty, before trying any of these, please please first contact your camera's maker to see if they'll cover the repair, or to determine how much they'll charge for the repair. Who knows, you might get lucky. But if they quote you a number that's higher than the value of your camera, you may want to consider the following methods.

The methods are listed in the order of risk of damaging your camera. Thus make sure you try them in the listed order. And remember, these fixes (especially #6 and 7) should only be considered for a camera that's out of warranty, who's cost of repair would be excessive, and would otherwise be considered for disposal if unrepaired:

Fix #1: Remove the batteries from the camera, wait a few minutes. Put a fresh set of batteries back in (preferably rechargeable NiMH 2500mah or better) and turn the camera on. If that didn't work, try pressing and holding the Function or OK button while turning the camera on.

Fix #2: Remove the batteries, then remove the memory card. Then install new batteries, and turn on the camera. If you get an Error E30, it means you don't have a memory card installed, so turn it off, slip in the memory card and turn it on one last time.

Fix #3: Insert the cameras Audio/Video (AV) cable, and turn the camera on. Inserting this cable ensures that the camera's LCD screen remains off during the start process. Thus extra battery power is available to the camera's lens motor during startup. This extra power can be useful in overcoming grit or sand particals that may be jamming the lens. If the AV cable doesn't fix the lens error by itself, consider keeping this cable installed while trying fixes 4, 5, and 7 as a means to provide extra help to these fixes. But note that I DON'T recommend keeping the cable installed during Fix 6 as you may damage the AV port while tapping the camera. Reinsert the cable only AFTER tapping the camera.

Fix #4: Place the camera flat on its back on a table, pointed at the ceiling. Press and hold the shutter button down, and at the same time press the power-on button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens is extending, hopefully seating the lens barrel guide pins in their slots.

Fix #5: Blow compressed air in the gaps around the lens barrels with the idea of blowing out any sand or grit that may be in there jamming the lens. Other variations include blowing with a hair dryer in "no heat" setting, or sucking the gaps with a vacuum (careful with this one).

Now we're entering into the realm of potentially damaging your camera in conducting the fix. There is definitely some risk here, so take care when conducting the following two fixes.

Fix #6: Repeatedly tap the padded/rubber usb cover on a hard surface with the intent of dislodging any particles that may be jamming the lens. Other variations include hitting a side of the camera against the palm of your hand. A lot of people have reported success with this method. HOWEVER, there is also some potential for damaging or dislodging internal components with this method, such as unseating ribbon cables, or cracking LCD screens.

Fix #7: Try forcing the lens. More people have reported success with this method than with any of the other methods. HOWEVER, there's obviously some potential for damaging your camera by using this method. Variations include gently pulling, rotating, and/or twisting the lens barrel while hitting the power button. Attempt to gently straighten or align the barrel if it's crooked or twisted. Another variation includes looking for uneven gaps around the lens barrel, and then pushing on the side of the lens barrel that has the largest gap (note pushing the lens barrel all the way in is NOT recommended as it may become stuck there). While doing any of the above, listen for a click that indicates that the lens barrel guide pins may have reseated in their guide slots. If you hear this click, immediately stop and try the camera.

The date stamp will only work when the camera's resolution is set to postcard mode. Press Func/set, scroll down to the bottom, then across to the icon with the clock and mountain. It will say "postcard". Press Func/set again. Then press Menu, scroll down to "Date stamp" and across to select date or date and time, then press menu again.

A stuck shutter is another common failure mode for digital cameras. The symptoms of a stuck or "sticky" shutter are very similar to CCD image sensor failure. The camera may take black pictures (for shutter stuck closed), or the pictures may be very bright and overexposed, sometimes with lines, especially when taken outdoors (for shutter stuck open). To confirm a stuck shutter, put the camera in any mode other than "Auto", and turn the flash OFF (you don't want to blind yourself for the next step). Next look down the lens and take a picture. You should see a tiny flicker in the center of the lens as the shutter opens and closes. If no movement is seen, then you likely have a stuck shutter. If so, please see this link for further info and a simple fix that may help. Pay particular attention to Fix #5A of the link.

Tv is "shutter priority" mode. The Canon SD cameras do not have that mode. Instead see Fix 5A of the below link. A stuck shutter is another common failure mode for digital cameras. The symptoms of a stuck or "sticky" shutter are very similar to CCD image sensor failure. The camera may take black pictures (for shutter stuck closed), or the pictures may be very bright and overexposed, sometimes with lines, especially when taken outdoors (for shutter stuck open). To confirm a stuck shutter, put the camera in any mode other than "Auto", and turn the flash OFF (you don't want to blind yourself for the next step). Next look down the lens and take a picture. You should see a tiny flicker in the center of the lens as the shutter opens and closes. If no movement is seen, then you likely have a stuck shutter. If so, please see this link for further info and a simple fix that may help.

A stuck shutter is another common failure mode for digital cameras. The symptoms of a stuck or "sticky" shutter are very similar to CCD image sensor failure. The camera may take black pictures (for shutter stuck closed), or the pictures may be very bright and overexposed, sometimes with lines, especially when taken outdoors (for shutter stuck open). To confirm a stuck shutter, put the camera in any mode other than "Auto", and turn the flash OFF (you don't want to blind yourself for the next step). Next look down the lens and take a picture. You should see a tiny flicker in the center of the lens as the shutter opens and closes. If no movement is seen, then you likely have a stuck shutter. If so, please see this link for further info and a simple fix that may help. Pay particular attention to Fix #5A.

Red eye is cause by the internal flash being mounted to close to the lens center axes and is a common problem with most all cameras built this way. Many manufactures have attempted to use "red eye" reduction which fires a pre-flash to close the subjects retina before the actual flash for exposure. Does it work in my opinion no it just cause the subject to think "Oh there's the flash the picture has been taken" and they move while the actual pictures is being made. Yet others tried to send a high intensity light in the subjects direction and that wasn't much better. To get around the red eye with a point and shoot camera you need to get the flash away from the camera. It's called "Off Camera" for your camera it would require an optional digital flash that will sync with the camera flash shutter speed mounted to a bracket that holds the flash above the camera at least 4 inches. However in the case of a pocket camera such as what you have, there now comes the problem of how to trigger the optional off camera flash. This can be done but requires a little non intrusive hacking and a piece of aluminum foil. All this extra gear has now pretty much destroyed the concept of a pocket point and shooter but you asked how to eliminate it as well. The U bracket and flash can be obtained through camera accessory manufactures another item you will need is a photo cell slave mounted on the flash which is mounted to the U bracket. T tripper the flash a small piece of reflective foil is taped in front of the flash angling the reflected light towards the photo cell slave. The slave "sees" the flash from the camera and triggers the optional flash. There are no wires involved so in fact this second flash could be mounted on a tripod to the side of the subject just as long as the camera flash is directed toward it. Once you get one optional flash to fire it is possible to connect multiple flash units using slave cells and create a studio lighting effect. You have now taken a point and shoot camera and turned it into a studio camera cool huh? Okay to address your second problem I feel as if I have to tell you what is happening before i explain what to do. Due to the mass amount of snow and possible overcast conditions you camera built in light meter "sees" this as a lot of light and closed down the aperture and or increases shutter speed, which in fact will under expose the scene. To work around this problem you need to switch you camera off any type of auto exposure zone and go to a manual setting. Look at the cameras light meter reading and purposely over expose it in most cases by two stops of light. I know this most likely all appears to complicated BUT, it's not beyond the capacity of your camera.