20 Most Recent Roper RAX4233PQ Top Load Washer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Hi,

Problems with a washing machine not spinning or not draining are often inter related..

If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out this tip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin


If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkout this tip...

Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning


heatman101

Remove the case and defeat the lid switch for testing. Do a load and see if you can tell where the leak is. Most times the pump is the leaker. A very easy fix.

More here If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Check your lid switch. This is the most common cause of the problem you are experiencing. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, stopping right after the wash cycle, not advancing to rinse or spin cycles, and a wash tub that will not drain.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average price is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices differ between sites so shop and compare. If the model number is correct, the part number for a replacement switch is 8318084.

If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. The lid switch is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman.

If this advice does not help you enough, repairclinic.com has a Repair Manual you can order to assist you with all your repairs. The part number is 1170635 and is priced at about $20. Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful to you.

NOTE: Roper is manufactured by Whirlpool, so these instructions do apply.

4 springs If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hi,
If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out this tip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4617986-washing_machine_not_pump_or_spin

If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkout this tip...

Front Load Washing Machine not draining and or not spinning
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4784376-front_load_washing_machine_not_draining

heatman101

clean the screens
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hi,

This unit does not use a belt, if you are having trouble with agitate and spin it is most likely the coupling. Here is a link that explains what that is and how to replace it. Let me know if this helps you.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4670549-drive_coupling_replacment

first you have to check the valve in the back of the machine sometimes people that are on well water get deposits that build up on the inside 2nd you would have to check to see if you have power going to both sides of the valve . you do this by removing the entire washer cover. If you do not have electrical experience in testing for voltage please call a technician the valve is what brings the water into your unit

water is siphoning out the drain hose ,drain pipe not high enough "must be 36 inchs"from floor or hose is inserted in pipe to far creating a suction situation ~once over the edge it cant stop...., may need a anti siphon kit on drain hose .

The most common cause of the problem you are experiencing is a lid switch malfunction. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, a wash tub that will not drain, and stopping right after the wash cycle and not advancing to rinse or spin cycles.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average price is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices differ between sites so shop and compare. If the model number you posted this question under is correct, the part number for a replacement switch is 8318084.

If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. The lid switch is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman.

If you would like to purchase a Repair Manual to assist you with all your repairs, repairclinic.com has one that you can order on line for about $20. The part number is 1170635. Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful.

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you with that...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4617986-washing_machine_not_pump_or_spin

heatman101

funny thing is the two most common things to block a water pump hose are a small coin and a babys sock yet your the first person ive seen belive it to be a sock. yet as i said that will only block the drain hose to the water pump if the washer is pumping out water then its not that if it is that the bin! wont spin you have other problems it could be a loose belt the gear box or the main motor has simply strarted to give out a small sock wont stop it from spinning


hope it helps some

Hiya,
if it was not spinning & then started again after you tilted it & set it back down i would suspect maybe a foregn object of some sort was stopping it & by tilting the machine you have dislodged it from where ever it was trapped most common cause is a coin or could be a loose screw dropped out from somewere.. you could check the filters if you have any to see if it has worked its way there if not i would leave it till it happens again then see if you can locate anything.. often tilting the machine will dislodge any objects making them fall to the bottom & preventing them causing the same problem again..

Hope this helps

It could be but I would do the following; This is usually caused by the lid switch. These are inexpensive and easy to replace. There are videos at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html that will walk you thru testing and replacing this part. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same. You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. All parts come with installation instructions. Not all models are available. There is a video that will show you how to check the motor also.

If this is a TOP LOADING Roper washer, a no spin problem can have several causes. However, most commonly, this is caused by either a lid switch malfunction or a broken motor coupling. The following link explains how you can diagnose the problem and repair it yourself:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3965207-whirlpool_top_loader_no_spin_problem

If this just a simple matter of the agitator not working, but everything else does, you may just have a worn agitator cam assembly, worn agitator dogs, loose agitator bolt, or all of the above. The following link explains what agitator dogs are and how to access them:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3608577-replacing_agitator_dogs

Whirlpool manufactured washers (such as Roper) use a split agitator design. The top half is known as the "auger, while the lower half is the agitator. Between the two pieces is a cam assembly, with small teflon teeth known as "dogs". There's also an agitator bolt that holds the entire assembly to the center post.

If the auger (top half of the agitator) is slipping, I would suspect the dogs or cam assembly need to be replaced. The part number for the dogs is included in the link I provided. For a little more you can purchase the entire cam assembly which includes the dogs, the cam, the cam seal and thrust bearing.

If the entire agitator appears loose or slipping, check the agitator bolt to ensure it is tight. DO NOT overtighten as this can restrict movement of the agitator or damage it. Tighten until snug.

Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable and offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites I listed also include helpful exploded view parts diagrams to assist you in locating and properly identifying the parts you need. If you do not wish to order parts on line, use the part numbers from the Sears website and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. All these parts are commonly sold as part of their in-store inventory.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

NOTE: Roper is manufactured by Whirlpool, so these instructions do apply.

Check your lid switch. This is the most common cause of the problem you are experiencing. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, a wash tub that will not drain, and stopping right after the wash cycle and failing to advance to rinse or spin cycles.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average price is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices differ between sites so shop and compare.

NOTE: You may only find your model number listed at the Sears websites, but the part number can cross to all the other sites for cost comparison.

If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate along the wash tub rim under the washer lid) and let me know. This is a very simple repair that you can easily perform yourself. I hope this helps you.

lid switch bad

There is always a little water left in the washer, but should always be below the inner tub (basket). Depending on how high your drain hose is attached to your drain, it could be very little which you won't hear, or enough drains back from the hose to make a noise. Generally if you cannot see any water in the basket (inner tub), it's alright. If you see water, and the clothes are wet on the bottom, there could be a problem. Also note that where your drain hose goes into your drain should not be sealed. It needs to vent a little air so it does not create a siphon. If this answers your question, please rate my answer. Thank you.

I had exactly the same probelm on my four year old Roper. I took the clutch apart and it had some foreign material on the white plastic clutch surface. I cleaned it up with fine sand paper and also used some emery cloth on the stainless steel "cup" that the clutch bears on. To increase the tension on the spring I added a couple of washers at each end. The washer now spins just like new. If your clutch is really warn out - down to the rivet surface you can get a new one for about $40 from most appliance repair shops

You may be experiencing a problem known as "siphoning". The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575830-how_to_prevent_washer_siphoning

This could be a simple matter of drain hose placement, or a standpipe that does not have an air gap. I see this a lot. If this advice does not correct you problem, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you save a service call.