Top 20 Honda 2500 PSI Gas Pressure Washer Questions & Answers

If pressure washer got frozen over the winter, the pump is bad. replace! Use winter pump protector during winter storage!

Push it on and turn it, it should lock in place,

There is not an on or off for the fuel. Just the on off switch and maybe a choke and throttle

Sonny: Methinks you have a blown gasket. You'll need to pull the pump off of the chassis and disassemble the pump to find out which gasket is allowing water into the crank case.

Use oil viscosity SAE 10-30W , if the engine is older or hot climate use SAE 10-40W.

Try the low pressure nozzle or setting.

This is sometimes caused by dirt or debris in the fuel tank, carburator float bowl or in-line fuel filter if it has one. When you start the motor the dirt is settled down and the motor runs fine. While the motor is running, the vibrations and fuel flowing through the system agitates the dirt and it eventually plugs the filter or jets. When the motor shuts down the dirt settles down and the process repeats. Replace the in-line filter if it has one and clean out the float bowl on the carb. While you have the fuel line off, let some gas flow through the fuel lines to flush them out. If dirt is a problem also check your gas can(s).

Common problem. The water admitance valve is stuck in the bore. The valve lets in more water when pressure drops and when wand is closed the pressure builds and the incoming water is blocked. Remove the valve spool and clean the bore with crocus cloth on a dowel rod. Replace the O Rings and lube with plumber's grease and re-assemble. Often you can buy an O Ring kit for the unit. Deposits build up and stick the valve spool at the high pressure end. The valve is usually crossways to the shaft and right where the water input is connected.

It could be a couple of things The first thing is the easyest and most likely one of your pump body valves is stuck or damaged do you see the 6 brass caps on the pump body you need to remove them all one at a time be careful not to damage the o rings on them . Then you can pull the valves out with a small pair of neddle noise plyers. Alot of times they get damaged if left in the cold with out winterizeing the mechine with antifrezze . If there ok then you are going to have to take somemore things apart to get to the unloader valve . But ckeck this first its llikely where the problem is

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
This response applies only to the engine:
Use 30 WT SAE engine oil.
You can use either detergent or non-detergent oil. I recommned 3 oil changes normal oil change intervals using 30 WT SAE non-detergent oil and on the 4th oil change use a detergent 30 WT Oil.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

most solutions are sold to be used as is , place the tube from the washer into the cleaning solution as you spray it will be mixed with the spray water . the kind of cleaner depends on what you are cleaning . you can buy cleaner for decks or cars or house etc.

Not sure if you mean engine will not turn at all (locked) or engine will not start. The engine may have been on its side causing this condition. Clean carb and filter of excess oil. Remove spark plug and clean cylinder and plug of oil that may have entered causing locked condition. Replace oil lost from crankcase. With spark plug removed and kill swith on off, pull rope to blow out oil and verify that motor will now turn. If it still does not turn could be lock rod to crank or faulty pump. If engine had very little or no oil in crank and was run, suspect locked crank, however if your engine has oil senser, this condition would have prevented engine from starting. If you mean that engine will not start, low oil senser most likely preventing start due to low oil. Good luck

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.


You can fix this yourself.
(Turn off the fuel selector)
Remove the carb float bowl nut and bowl. Note the gaskets upper and lower. Remove the float pin retaining the float and drop the float and float needle together.
Briefly turn on the fuel selector and then back off. You are flushing debris from the float needle seat. It is a good idea to use carb cleaner to ensure that the float needle seat area is clean.
ALSO spray carb cleaner into the threaded area where the bowl nut attaches. Your cleaning off the metering jet orifice up inside the threaded area.
INSPECT the float needle itself. The rubber tip should be tapered and pliable. If there are any nicks cuts or debris on the end of the needle first wipe it off and determine if you need a replacement float needle.

Reinstall float and needle ensuring you have the float pin properly installed.
CLEAN the bowl NUT along with the float bowl. Then reinstall the the float bowl. 2 gaskets upper and lower must be properly seated.

Turn on the fuel selector...
Test for leaks.

This should fix the leak but... if you still have the problem and did not change the float needle and seat. Change them. The float needle seat can be difficult to remove. I find that air in the fuel supply manifold fitting will blast most of them out but... sometimes I have to use a drill bit the size of the hole to cut the rubber material and then dig it out with a scribe or jewelers screwdriver. Just make sure to clean the hole with carb cleaner before installing the new seat. To install the new seat... reverse the drill bit using the flat chuck driven end and press it into place. Works great!

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

If you only have line pressure you probably have a stuck open bypass or unloader valve.

the unloader is usually on the pump body and can be taken apart and cleaned and lightly greased with a little silicone grease to keep it limber.

I hope this helps!

http://www.excellpressurewasher.com/product_manuals.asp

20 parts water to 1 part cleaning solution is the common recommendation for power washers. Use only approved solutions or you can damage the pump. If the job is really grimy you can go as low as 7 to 1

try soaking the carb for 15 minutes in gasoline. If you have a plugged port just sparying may not be enough to clean it

I don't know if your power washer is like mine.
Oil ports at base of engine are for 10-W-30 motor oil and lubricate the engine, just like a car engine.
Oil comes up a bit more than half-way on dip stick.

Oil port on pump is for SAE20 or SAE30 non-detergent motor oil.
Oil fills about half way up inside pump housing.

Do not turn engine over or on its side to drain oil or oil will drain into carburetor.
Use a siphon to drain oil and tip machine up about 60 degrees

check that the fuel tap is on

Your Honda 5.5 hp engine specifically calls for SAE 5W30 engine oil. Use a good quality oil in the engine, and change it every 50 hours of run time. The pump will take 30weight non-detergent oil.
Using non-detergent oil in the engine will probably void your warranty, and will certainly shorten the life of the engine. Non-detergent oils have not been recommend by engine manufacturers in nearly 20 years.
Oil is cheap, go ahead and spend $4 - 5 on a quart of high quality oil. Your engine uses about 20 ounces per change.

First check the intake line, filter and the brass fitting on the pump for obstructions. It clear it's usually because you are using a high pressure tip on the gun while trying to spray detergent. The only way the system can pull the detergent into the water stream is if you are using a soap tip (usually black) on the gun.