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I am thinking this is an outboard engine and should be in the Boating Category?

Sounds like the main jet in the carburetor is blocked. Also check that when you open the throttle, the linkages on the engine/carburetor move.

https://www.google.com/search?q=9.9+honda+idles+no+power

Honda Cars &... | Answered 20 hours ago


http://www.geotechenv.com/Manuals/Honda_Manuals/EU3000is.pdf

Honda Eu3000is... | Answered 2 days ago


i think you will find that like the 1200 there is no valve adjustment..well there is but not in the normal locknut screw adjustment that we are all familiar with,,they are a shimmed "no lash"hydraulic system,,you can buy the shims from your local honda dealer but they only come in 1mm steps i took 4 new ones to an engineer and got them taken down to 1/2 mm thickness this made a big difference,they are quite easy to do just take some time to get right,but once done they should do 50-60000km before needing looking at again..hope this helps

1981 Honda GL... | Answered 3 days ago


Have someone watch the engine while you step on the gas( e brake on and tires blocked so that the car cannot move) to see how much movement the engine does. You may have bad engine/transmission mounts.

Honda Cars &... | Answered on Aug 10, 2020


1.6L Engines Firing order: 1-3-4-2 Distributor rotation: Clockwise.

cdd80c6.gif

I hope help you with this, remember rated this post. Good luck.

1997 Honda Civic | Answered on Aug 10, 2020


Hi,


P1289 - Cylinder Head Temp Sensor High Input
The A/F sensor is a planar dual-cell limit current sensor. The sensor element of the A/F sensor is the combination of a Nernst concentration cell (sensor cell) with an oxygen-pump cell, which transports ions. It has a heater in the element.

The sensor is capable of precise measurement a= 1, but also in the lean and rich range. Together with its control electronics, the sensor outputs a clear, continuous signal throughout a wide range (0.7 < a< air).

The exhaust gas components diffuse through the diffusion gap at the electrode of the oxygen pump and Nernst concentration cell, where they are brought to thermodynamic balance.

An electronic circuit controls the pump current through the oxygen-pump cell so that the composition of the exhaust gas in the diffusion gap remains constant at a = 1. Therefore, the A/F sensor is able to indicate air/fuel ratio by this pumping of current. In addition, a heater is integrated in the sensor to ensure the required operating temperature of 700 - 800?C (1,292 - 1,472?F).

The response (from LEAN to RICH) of the A/F (Bank 1) signal computed by ECM from A/F sensor 1 signal takes more than the specified time.

Symptoms
- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)

Possible causes
# Harness or connectors (The A/F sensor 1 circuit is open or shorted.)
# Air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor 1
# Air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor 1 heater
# Fuel pressure
# Fuel injector
# Intake air leaks
# Exhaust gas leaks
# PCV
# Mass air flow sensor



Thank you.

2002 Honda S2000 | Answered on Aug 09, 2020


Hi, Trisha for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ALeKk01xyy0Si2TWhorcq8cASGOQmY_9fg:1596930241877&source=univ&tbm=isch&q=starter+relay+location+2096+Honda+Elite+CH+8&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwia5rDe5IzrAhWEiOAKHd_KDmsQsAR6BAgJEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
htthttps://www.manualslib.com/manual/998061/Honda-Elite-Ch-150-H.html#product-Elite%20CH%20150%20Hp://www.ch250.net/techtips/36.htm
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
https://www.acura.com/assets/OWNERLINK/Model/own_man/powersports/2007/2007_CH80.pdf

Honda... | Answered on Aug 08, 2020


youd have to look

id bet they cut the springs. but .. only looking really works
and im blind here.... and no photos of springs , posted.

2004 Honda... | Answered on Aug 07, 2020


The standard alternator charging system is relatively crude and isn't really suited to the ancient lead-acid battery technology used on vehicles (because it is relatively cheap). The best that can usually be claimed for them is they keep a fully charged battery fully charged, though many don't accomplish that well when the battery is ageing.
The high internal impedance of the battery and the even higher internal impedance of an older battery means voltage regulation isn't the best way of doing things.

Smart charging systems go some way to addressing this drawback. The Honda system measures the current consumed by the car's electrical equipment and adjusts the output of the alternator accordingly.
If the battery is maintaining a good state of charge there probably isn't much wrong with the charging system.

When the system records a fault it is best not to guess but to have the fault code read and when repaired the fault should be erased. Many logged faults don't go away by themselves.

Honda Cars &... | Answered on Jul 26, 2020


25thou or about 0.6mm. Same as any other spark plug.

Honda Cars &... | Answered on Jul 25, 2020


Ideal gap varies slightly depending on brand of spark plug - choose your brand and check in the online application catalogue for that brand. The gap is generally listed alongside the vehicle listing.

Most common reason for no start after changing a distributor cap is getting the ht leads mixed up.

Honda Cars &... | Answered on Jul 25, 2020


call a local mechanic to assist you I learnt to do 1 wire at a time so they went back where they belonged

Honda Cars &... | Answered on Jul 25, 2020


Hi, Tom before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Depending on battery voltage starter relays and starter solenoids can make the same noise when you hit the starter button. You can easily determine which one is at fault by two simple tests:
STARTER RELAY- place your thumb and index finger on the starter relay and press the starter button, if you feel the click then the relay is faulty and needs to be replaced.
STARTER SOLENOID- bridge the positive and negative poles of the solenoid with a small screwdriver if you get a loud clunk then the solenoid needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. If the engine turns over then replace the starter relay.
A motorcycle starter relay is an electronic mechanical switch that has a small coil winding around a piece of metal that requires low amperage and thin wires to be activated. When you turn on your ignition switch power 12 volts is sent to the relay coil which in turn becomes a magnetic contact point that pulls a spring-loaded contact point to itself completing an electrical circuit that allows more amperage necessary to be accessed by the starter solenoid which in turn acts in the same way as the relay but on a larger scale with its stronger heavier contacts making available the necessary amperage to turn the starter motor. If your battery has low voltage it, in turn, makes the magnetic contact point weak in trying to pull its counterpart to make a connection. These relays are usually encased in a plastic housing that is sealed, depending on the quality of the product. When activated they will produce a small amount of heat to their metal components which in turn can create the perfect environment for condensation to form depending on weather conditions and how careless you may be with a water hose or sprayer while washing your bike. After a period of time, several months to several years depending on the circumstances this condensation is the starter button for electrolysis and the slow build-up of corrosion which ends by preventing the magnetic contacts in making a solid connection and alerts you to this situation with the customary greeting "CLICK or BUZZ" if you get a single loud "CLUNK" then the starter solenoid is at fault and needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. The relay is inexpensive and needs to be replaced however in a pinch they can be forcibly opened cleaned and resealed with silicone. In a nutshell, motorcycle starter relays take in low amperage and send out higher amperage when activated and for curious minds, the voltage remains constant at whatever your battery reads at the time.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vtxcafe.com/threads/2005-1300r-vtx-will-just-click-after-with-new-battery.85443/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MlY-0L50x2c
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/722750/Honda-Vtx1300s.html#product-VTX1300R
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
http://owners.honda.com/assets/ownerlink/model/own_man/powersports/2004/2004_vtx1300c.pdf

2005 Honda VTX... | Answered on Jul 23, 2020


Hi, Saul before testing any electrical component in the Turn Signal Light Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amps causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, "AGM" batteries fall into this category more so than lead-acid types, also before diagnosing any turn signal/running light/parking light issue make sure the bulb is good and the light fuse has continuity with a test light. If you have replaced your OEM lights with one or all LED lights you are going to need a load equalizer.
If no turn signals are working the cause could be a faulty turn signal module/flasher or the connector going to it, look for corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets. Contact spray cleaner is great for removing corrosion.
If your turn signal comes on but takes several seconds before it starts flashing you may have dirty contacts in the turn signal switch/button, the switch needs to be opened up and cleaned also the flasher may be starting to fail. It should be noted that cold weather will only exacerbate the situation especially when temperatures drop down below freezing and the location of the component, turn signal switches on the handlebar are at the mercy of the oncoming freezing 70 mph wind and makes it hard for the contacts to do their job covered in frozen grease/grime
If all four turn signals flash at the same time like hazard lights even though you only pressed one turn signal button then you have a LED light in the circuit and need a load equalizer that can be purchased from any motorcycle parts supplier.
If your speedometer does not function properly it will have to be fixed first because your turn signal module gets the data from the speedometer for normal turn signal function.
If your front turn signals don't work use a test light to check for power and ground at the bulb socket, then start backtracking the wiring through every wire connector to the turn signal switch/button and check for continuity, go all the way back to the fuse if necessary to find the cause of the malfunction.
If your rear turn signals don't work check your rear fender wiring harness connector first, look for, corroded, broken, loose pins/sockets, power, and a good ground, the harness connector is usually located under the seat on the front of the rear fender then keep tracing the wiring look for obvious harness damage caused by the rear tire.
If you still can't find the malfunction backtrack from the rear fender wiring harness connector.
If one side does not work you could have a faulty turn signal switch or module check for continuity.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://cbrforum.com/forum/f2-tech-93/f2-turn-signal-problem-i-need-help-108388/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ob4JWFQ6aTc
https://www.cyclechaos.com/images/9/90/Honda_CBR600F2_91-94_Service_Manual.pdf
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
http://www.hondampe.com.au/docs/owning_a_honda/owners_manuals/motorcycles/CBR600F-1994.pdf

Honda... | Answered on Jul 23, 2020

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