Did you check the timing? If the timing is off there will be a reduction in performance and power will be greatly reduced. If the engine is "pinging" or "knocking" under heavy acceleration, your timing is advanced, and pre ignition is occurring (that's when the spark has ignited the fuel in the combustion chamber prematurely), resulting in a knocking sound. When the piston is compressing the air/fuel mixture within the combustion chamber, the spark plug produces a spark from current it receives from contacts closing in the distributor cap. (Where all the spark plug wires are plugged into) if that spark come BEFORE the piston finishes it up stroke or compression stroke, the piston is then being slowed down from the kinetic energy produced by the exploding fuel. Thats where we loose our power. Idealy, the spark should come AFTER the piston has rotated over the top of its stroke, It has reached its limit in compression and is on its way back down then the spark should ignite the compressed fuel, thus giving the piston an additional "shove" back down to start its "Power" stroke, once its reached the bottom of the power stroke (stroke #2 of 4) it is then carried back up for the "exhaust" stroke pushing the burnt fuel out of the combustion camber and into the exhaust manifold, one it has reached the top of that stroke it begins its journey back down to start stroke number 4, the Intake stroke. Drawing in air/fuel mixture to again be pushed back upward to compress the air/fuel, and repeat the process over and over again. Now that I have thoroughly bored you to tears, Yeah, check the engine timing, if its not the timing it may be a vacuum leak.
SOURCE: Change the spark plugs
there are 4 large wires at the front of the engine on the cylinder head, carefully remove them by twisting the rubber boots back and forth until they come off, under those are the spark plugs, u will need a 3/8" ratchet and a short socket extension with a 5/8" spark plug socket on it, put the socket over the plugs and remove them reinstall in reverse order, 10 minute job on an escort.
SOURCE: replaced alternator on 1997 ford escort and battery indicator lig
Battery light is on and battery is not holding the charge because you have at lest one cell damaged
because of accidental short-circuits between the battery terminal. So most probably you need to get new one (in Sears starts from $49,99) For fuses location follow this link please
Good Luck
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/15/66/b3/0900823d801566b3/repairInfoPages.htm
SOURCE: 1994 Ford Escort will crank but not start.
it may be the cam sensor or the crank sensor. take an ohm meter to check them to see if they are any good
SOURCE: how to change a thermastat 1994 ford escort with a 1.9 engine
1.9L Engine
CAUTION
Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when
hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also, when
draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted
to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left in an
uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal
in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable
container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is
several years old.
Fig: Remove the ignition coil pack
Fig. : Detach the air intake tube, crankcase breather and PCV hose
Fig. : Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the radiator
Fig. : Unfasten the ignition coil pack bracket upper bolts...
Fig. : ...and the lower bracket bolt, then remove the bracket
Fig. : Unfasten the heater hose inlet tube bracket bolt (arrow)
Fig: Unfasten the heater hose inlet tube-to-thermostat housing clamp
Fig.: Disconnect the hose inlet tube from the thermostat housing
Fig. : Unfasten the three thermostat housing bolts
Fig. Separate the thermostat housing from the engine block
Fig. : Remove the thermostat from the housing
Fig. : Use a scraper to clean old gasket material from the engine block's thermostat housing mating surface ...
Fig. : ... as well as the thermostat housing
continue...
SOURCE: 1994 Ford Escort, will not start. i have replaced
hi,
set the parking brake and make sure its in neutral then
try to bypass the ignition switch by jumping the starter relay under the hood. take the small wire off the relay and use a 2 foot piece of wire to go from the positive battery terminal to the terminal on the starter relay you just unplugged. if it turns over and if its a manual transmission the clutch pedal interlock switch may be busted, on the clutch pedal theres a small switch that senses the pedal is to the floor and it wont start. you can try to bypass that with a simple jumper wire. lastly if neither of those do it then you may have to drop the steering column and put a new ignition switch in it.
jm
Car not starting or turning over indicates towards multiple possibilities.
It can be issue with battery or weak battery. But if battery checks out ok, then
it can be starter issue or faulty alternator or problem with low fuel pressure
or no spark at spark plugs due to dirty spark plugs or faulty
ignition coil or injectors getting cracked or dirty and needs to be cleaned.
To confirm the problem, the basic troubleshooting is required.
Click this link below and follow the troubleshooting:------
http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/car-starting-issues.html
---------
This will help.
Thanks.
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