Stiff clutch on 2002 elantra , clutch and transmission new , slave clinder pushes wrong way ,whats wrong ?

the 89 4x4 PICKUP model in Colorado state
2.4L , yes. and has easy view clutch slave. (on coax bull)
what means new clutch?, (master Cyl + slave)
or the whole inside bell housing PP, disc, TO_bearing kit? and pilot bearing 4 part kit, or all the above, we can no guess what is new.

on any car with stick shift we never replace the 5 to 10 hour labor parts, 4 parts above ever first
the Master slave is tested first, or replaced in 1hr flat.
MC has reservoir. that must not be dry or fluid drops each day
the MC (master cylinder clutcH) no leaking fluid to front or rear of fire wall. , the slave does not leak..(but does so driving and we missed that)
the reservoir is on top of MC, plastic mini tank)
we make sure the slave moves about 1 " stroke or the PP clutch can not work ever,(pressure plate PP) 2man test, one at clutch pedal and 1 at slave and watches the slave push rod move, fully.(not quiver)
the MC too low or empty must be bled, just like brake or the slave is dead.(air in lines to it and it make it dead, not bad)

reservoir , this word mean DOT3 fluid mini tank for clutch fluid
just like seen on PS and brakes, but is DOT 3 on most cars.
RTM to get correct fluid (users guide)
and more tests,
the cars MC auto adjusting,NO free play settings!) if bled it can go
100k miles or more not touched.
one car I did the clutch pedal top was broken, had to weld it.
as it would not depress the MC rear side
so tech , never assumes, he tests all part first
for sure the easy to fix if broken parts first.
on old cars I assume all is bad, and prove otherwise.(tests)
most cars this old 33yo, 10 or more things will be bad.even 20.

Hi there if clutch master and slave cylinders are operating with full pressure and clutch fork push rod moves to full release, Then clearly the problem points to a faulty clutch specifically pressure plate or damaged clutch fork.

without look i cannot be of any help but if the pedal is hard to push down then you need a new clutch ,sorry to give you the bad news so dont curse me and send the demons .

What was wrong to start with that made you replace the cylinders? There is a back story that will probably tell the tale. It could possibly be a locked slave cylinder - did it work in-out before installing? If not, its a pressure plate and/or throwout bearing bound up.

Hope this helps,

Scott
Europartsplus.com

Are you sure you installed clutch plate facing right way? They are either stamped or have a tag says "flywheel side". Or might have wrong clutch kit.

Looks like a clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder malfunction.

Have you fully bled the system

Make sure all the air is out of the lines ,,bleed the system to do this

You have to replace the Slave Cyl. when you put on the new one you have to bleed it ..To get the air out of the new line.

the clutch pedal is hooked up to the clutch master cylinder which is connected to the clutch slave cylinder at the transmission by a metal line. If the slave cylinder is leaking (most common) replace it usually --two bolts and a metal line fitting. the clutch system will have the air purged which can be done by gravity bleeding. reattach the components open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder and keep topping off the clutch mastercylinder with fluid untill the stream of fluid out of the slave cylinder no longer has bubbles. test peddal stiffness and repeat as needed--a vaccum pump can also be used to draw the fluid through the system