Where is the "control relay" located in the vehicle. It has ignition wire and fuel pump wire hooked to it.

1. Check the fuel pump fuse: Locate your vehicle's fuse box (usually found under the dashboard or in the engine compartment) and check the fuel pump fuse. If it is blown, replace it with a fuse of the same amperage. If the fuse is fine, proceed to the next step.

2. Check the fuel pump relay: The relay controls the power supply to the fuel pump. You can typically find the fuel pump relay in the fuse box or a separate relay box. To test the relay, you can swap it with an identical relay (such as the horn relay) and see if the fuel pump starts working. If it does, the relay is the problem and needs to be replaced.

3. Inspect the wiring: Damaged or corroded wiring can cause a loss of power to the fuel pump. Check the wiring leading to the fuel pump for any visible damage, corrosion, or loose connections. Repair or replace any damaged wires and clean corroded connections.

4. Test the fuel pump for proper function: If you have access to a multimeter or test light, you can test the fuel pump terminals for power when the ignition is turned on. You should see a voltage for a few seconds as the pump primes. If there's no power at the terminals, the problem could be a faulty ignition switch, fuel pump control module, or a wiring issue.

5. Faulty fuel pump: If all the above steps show that power is reaching the fuel pump, but it is still not working, the pump itself might be faulty and need replacement.

Check for damaged connections and loom, there is no 'reset'.

What does it do with the lines hooked up ? Most fuel injected vehicles need an RPM signal to let the computer know the engine is running to let power continue to the pump .

I see you replaced the fuel pump , spark plugs an wires , fuel fliter an checked ignition coil pack , Connections ,ASD relay . And everything checks OK ?????? How did you check these thing's ? Testing electrical circuits with a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ? Fuel pressure testing the fuel pump before replacing ? Does the vehicle have spark ? How about hooking up a scan tool that can view engine sensor data .A bad coolant temp sensor could cause hard starting. Did you check the dark blue with yellow trace wire at the PCM connector 2 pin 67 . This is the PCM control side of the ASD relay . Do you know how a relay works ? how to test at the relay base ? where in plugs into.
How to test computer transistor driver without scan tool

Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know

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VEHICLE RELAYS Testing from the relay base

VEHICLE RELAYS Operation Diagnosis

For that you will need to be able to do some serious wiring. You will need to find a relay in the engine compartment fuse/relay box that turns on when you turn on the key, like the electric fuel pump relay, for example. Next you will need to calculate the amperage draw of all of the lights you are going to hook up. If the fuse for the relay you chose is smaller than the amperage you need to serve both the fuel pump and the lights then you will need to make a fuse connection at a spare in the fuse box to connect to the new relay output and input (see below). The fuel pump relay has control and supply wires on it. The supply wires actually supply the power to the fuel pump. The control wires simply turn on the relay when you turn on the key in the ignition. You need to hook up the control wires of the fuel pump relay to the control wires of the new lights relay. As stated earlier, the supply wires are then hooked to the relay and, in turn to the supply fuse. Make certain that you use some heavier wire for the supply circuits. Thinner wires may be substituted for the control wires. Solder at the fuse box side and use spade connectors at the lights side...good luck!

The fuel-pump relay unit is responsible for turning the fuel pump on when it detects the engine is running. When the ignition signal stops, the fuel-pump relay switches the pump off. Problems with the ignition and starting the vehicle often can be traced to the condition of the fuel-pump relay.

Description

The fuel-pump relay is a small unit, typically enclosed in a plastic case. The unit contains several sprockets on one side that are clipped onto the ignition system. The fuel-pump relay is engaged only during the start cycle. If it is faulty, it can take longer to start your vehicle.

Location

Most fuel-pump relay units are located under the dashboard near the steering column. In some cases, the unit is located in the area where the steering column is mounted or near the engine's firewall. The end of the fuel pump relay is typically located near the center of the floorboard, under the carpet in the front section of the passenger's or driver's side footwell.

Considerations

In addition to difficulty in starting the vehicle, symptoms of a poorly functioning fuel-pump relay include the following: the car dies then starts a few minutes later; the fuel pump makes a strange noise (humming or clicking loudly) for longer than five to 10 seconds after starting; or the engine won't start after you have engaged the fuel-pump switch.

Troubleshooting

When your car does not start properly, you can conduct a fuel-injection relay test. Two relays are located inside the fuel-injection system; one of them is responsible for turning the ignition on without turning over the engine, and the other is responsible for turning on when the engine turns.



You can check to see if the first relay is working by touching it while turning the ignition on and off. You should feel a "click" every time you switch the ignition. If the fuel-pump relay is not working, you can "jump" the unit with a small lead jumper cable. You will need to access the fuse panel and insert the cable into the relay unit; the unit will run as long as the wire is inside the relay and can help start your car.

no feed so check fuse,

If you powered the fuel pump by bypass the relay, then either the relay is faulty or the wiring to the relay is faulty or there maybe a fuse that is blown.
When the fuel pump relay coil is energizes, the relay contacts will close to supply power to the fuel pump.
Remove the relay then identify the relay coil connectors, then apply 12volts to these connectors, if the relay clicks then the relay is probably OK unless the relay contacts are faulty and then the fault is in the wiring to the relay coil.
Get a service manual wiring diagram and trace the wiring from the relay connector back to the control box/ignition.
You can use a 12v globe or a multi-meter to check the relay coil at the relay connector to see if it energizes

Good Day,

I am assuming that you have the 4.3L V6.

The fuel pump is always a pain on trucks becasue you have to remove the tank to gain access. The pump is bolted in on the top side of the tank. I hope it doesn't have a full tank of gas as it needs to be drained(re-use when job is complete). Not to mention pulling a tank that's full of gas very heavy.
See this link for an overview:

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800a13e9

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800a145a

Here's how you test the fuel pump relay, and fuel pump:

1. Turn the ignition OFF.
2. Remove the relay.
3. Locate the two terminals on the relay, which are connected to the coil windings. Check the relay coil for continuity. Connect the common meter lead to terminal 85 and positive meter lead to terminal 86. There should be continuity. If not, replace the relay.

Fuel Pump

1. Turn the ignition key OFF for ten seconds.
2. Turn the ignition key to the ON position but do not start the engine.
3. You should here the fuel pump operate for two seconds (a light electrical humming sound).
4. Apply a 12 volt fused jumper wire to the fuel pump prime (test) connector. This should be located in the driver's side of the engine compartment. The fuel pump should operate.
5. If the fuel pump does operate, remove and test the relay. If the relay is defective, replace the relay and repeat the test.
6. If the relay is operating properly, connect a grounded test light to the fuel pump relay control wire (green with white stripe) at the relay. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The test light should illuminate for two seconds and go out. If the test light does not illuminate, check the relay control wire for continuity and repair as necessary, then repeat the test.
7. Connect a grounded test light to the feed wire (orange) at the relay and turn the ignition key ON. The test light should illuminate. If the light does not illuminate, test feed wire for continuity and the fuse in the underhood fuse relay center. Repair as necessary and repeat the test.
8. If the fuel pump is still not functioning, connect a fused jumper wire between the feed (orange) wire and the fuel pump motor (gray) wire at the relay. The pump should operate.
9. If the pump does not operate, check the fuel pump motor wire for continuity and repair as necessary.
10. If the pump will still not operate, replace the pump.
11. If the pump does operate, start the vehicle and remove the relay. The vehicle should continue to run. If the vehicle stalls, check the fuel pump/oil pressure switch and its wiring. Repair as necessary and repeat the test.

Also see figure 4 which is digram 3 from this link, this is the schematic on the fuel pump, the fuel pump's hot wire is tan with a white stripe, if you can test the voltage of this wire you can confirm it is not an electrical problem.

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528008f3ce

Also be sure to releive the fuel pressure before servicing

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800a1468

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Loosen the fuel filler cap to relieve fuel tank pressure.
3. Connect fuel pressure gauge J-34730-1A or its equivalent to the pressure connection. Wrap a shop towel around the fitting while connecting the gauge to prevent spillage.
4. Install the bleed hose into an approved container and open the valve to bleed the system. The system is now safe for servicing.
5. Drain any fuel remaining in the gauge into an approved container.

Let me know if any of this is jibberish to you and I can clarify further.

Good Luck again, and feel free to ask anymore questions.

Okay,
I love the 4.3L I have a tricked out 2000 S10 with that motor and its awesome(a few aftermarket bolt ons and those motors really scream!), I have also had an 89 Jimmy and 96 S10 with that motor so your in luck as I I know it inside and out.

The fuel pump is always a pain on trucks becasue you have to remove the tank to gain access. The pump is bolted in on the top side of the tank. I hope it doesn't have a full tank of gas as it needs to be drained(re-use when job is complete). Not to mention pulling a tank that's full of gas very heavy.
See this link for an overview:

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528008f213

Here's how you test the fuel pump relay, and fuel pump:

1. Turn the ignition OFF.
2. Remove the relay.
3. Locate the two terminals on the relay, which are connected to the coil windings. Check the relay coil for continuity. Connect the common meter lead to terminal 85 and positive meter lead to terminal 86. There should be continuity. If not, replace the relay.

Fuel Pump

1. Turn the ignition key OFF for ten seconds.
2. Turn the ignition key to the ON position but do not start the engine.
3. You should here the fuel pump operate for two seconds (a light electrical humming sound).
4. Apply a 12 volt fused jumper wire to the fuel pump prime (test) connector. This should be located in the driver's side of the engine compartment. The fuel pump should operate.
5. If the fuel pump does operate, remove and test the relay. If the relay is defective, replace the relay and repeat the test.
6. If the relay is operating properly, connect a grounded test light to the fuel pump relay control wire (green with white stripe) at the relay. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The test light should illuminate for two seconds and go out. If the test light does not illuminate, check the relay control wire for continuity and repair as necessary, then repeat the test.
7. Connect a grounded test light to the feed wire (orange) at the relay and turn the ignition key ON. The test light should illuminate. If the light does not illuminate, test feed wire for continuity and the fuse in the underhood fuse relay center. Repair as necessary and repeat the test.
8. If the fuel pump is still not functioning, connect a fused jumper wire between the feed (orange) wire and the fuel pump motor (gray) wire at the relay. The pump should operate.
9. If the pump does not operate, check the fuel pump motor wire for continuity and repair as necessary.
10. If the pump will still not operate, replace the pump.
11. If the pump does operate, start the vehicle and remove the relay. The vehicle should continue to run. If the vehicle stalls, check the fuel pump/oil pressure switch and its wiring. Repair as necessary and repeat the test.

Also see figure 4 which is digram 3 from this link, this is the schematic on the fuel pump, the fuel pump's hot wire is tan with a white stripe, if you can test the voltage of this wire you can confirm it is not an electrical problem.

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528008f3ce

Also be sure to releive the fuel pressure before servicing

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Loosen the fuel filler cap to relieve fuel tank pressure.
3. Connect fuel pressure gauge J-34730-1A or its equivalent to the pressure connection. Wrap a shop towel around the fitting while connecting the gauge to prevent spillage.
4. Install the bleed hose into an approved container and open the valve to bleed the system. The system is now safe for servicing.
5. Drain any fuel remaining in the gauge into an approved container.

Let me know if any of this is jibberish to you and I can clarify further.

Good Luck again, and feel free to ask anymore questions.