Kenmore gas dryer 11072912100 i need a wiring diagram for reconnecting all the thermostats, igniter,radient thing and gas valve solenoids... i put fixing this thing on the back burner and forgot where the wires go! thanks guys for any help, mike

Check the venting, if spent glasses can't get away the machine will shut down

Here is the troubleshooting order. The first thing to check is the igniter if glowing red hot when the dryer is started and runs. If it turns red hot, the problem is with the radiant sensor or the gas valve solenoid coils. The radiant sensor must align perfectly with the igniter. The radiant sensor contacts bypasses one of the gas valve solenoid coils and as the igniter heats up it makes the sensor contact trips unbypassing the coil and allowing the gas to flow and be ignited.

The problem is with the solenoid coils sitting on top of the gas valves, one with 2-prongs and the other has 3, if the igniter turns red hot and the radiant sensor is aligned with it and working perfectly but no gas is ignited. In this case, both solenoids must be replaced. The resistance of the 2-prong coils is around 1200 ohms while the 3-pronged one is around 1320 ohms between the outer prongs.

The igniter is good if it reads 100 ohms. The safety thermostat on the burner cone is blown open if the igniter does not glow red hot. Check the continuity of the safety thermostat and the cycling thermostat on the bower housing. Replace both the safety thermostat and the cycling thermostat if the safety thermostat is found open.

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The problem is either of the cycling thermostat, high-limit thermostat or the gas valve solenoid coils sitting on top of the gas valve assembly. Disconnect power then verify any of these condition by bypassing the thermostats. Refer to the image below and locate the thermostats.

Note: This is an image of an electric dryer but the thermostat and the thermal cut-off (cut-out) locations are the same.

Disconnect each of the thermostat wires then connect and insulate them properly. Once done, reconnect power and start the dryer. The gas valve solenoid coils are indeed faulty and both need to be replaced if the problem still persists. Click here for the procedure in replacing the solenoid coils.

Gas Valve Solenoid Coils Replacement Procedure

Either or both of the cycling thermostat and the high-limit thermostat are malfunctioning if the dryer continues to heat up with the thermostats bypassed. Disconnect power then reconnect the cycling thermostat wires but keeping the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The high-limit thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the cycling thermostat is the culprit.

Also do the other way; that is reconnecting the high-limit thermostat wires but keeping the cycling thermostat bypassed. The cycling thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the high-limit thermostat is the culprit.

Replace the faulty thermostat and it should solve the problem.

The cycling thermostat or the high-limit thermostat may not be the problem but rather the gas valve solenoid coils sitting on top of the gas valve assembly. Disconnect power then verify this condition by bypassing the thermostats. Refer to the image below and locate the thermostats.

Note: This is an image of an electric dryer but the thermostat and the thermal cut-off (cut-out) locations are the same.

Disconnect each of the thermostat wires then connect and insulate them properly. Once done, reconnect power and start the dryer. The gas valve solenoid coils are indeed faulty and both need to be replaced if the problem still persists. Click here for the procedure in replacing the solenoid coils.

Gas Valve Solenoid Coils Replacement Procedure

Either or both of the cycling thermostat and the high-limit thermostat are malfunctioning if the dryer continues to heat up with the thermostats bypassed. Disconnect power then reconnect the cycling thermostat wires but keeping the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The high-limit thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the cycling thermostat is the culprit.

Also do the other way; that is reconnecting the high-limit thermostat wires but keeping the cycling thermostat bypassed. The cycling thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the high-limit thermostat is the culprit.

Replace the faulty thermostat and it should solve the problem.

There are several things that can cause this problem. It could be a defective hot surface igniter, inop thermostat, bad gas solenoid valves ect. You will first need to check and see if the hot surface igniter is coming on. You can verify this by turning on the dryer and then watching for the hot surface igniter to start glowing from the burner inspection hole at the bottom of the dryer(or remove the front/back panel if no window). It should glow very bright. Then after it is glowing to it's brightest point you should then hear a click(the sound of the gas valve solenoid opening) and the burner should come on. There are two gas valves in the system as a safety so you could have one valve that is bad. When the gas valves are charged they should be magnetized on the top of the valves. You can also give these valves a light tap to see if they are sticking. The gas valve solenoids and bad igniter are the most common cause of inop gas dryers. It could also be a bad thermostat or high limit cut off switch is open. Take a look at the dryer and let me know what you find. Also be careful doing any work on your dryer without the proper tools and knowledge. You could hurt yourself from electrical shock or explosion if you are not careful.

Hi

Please check the things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- House fuse or breaker (needs two of them), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse (not all models), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
And also check the things that could stop a gas dryer from heating if you have a gas dryer:
- Glow bar igniter, thermal fuse (not all models), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats, motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.

Please do rate the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Hi


Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:

• house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them )
• heating element, burnt wire
• thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ),
• motor heat switch, timer, selector switch,
• burnt power cord/plug.

You can check these things using an ohmmeter/multimeter from here.


Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:

• glow bar igniter,
• thermal fuse ( not all models ),
• coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,
• motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.

A page for checking gas dryers is here.


Please do rate this solution as FixYa and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

Hi

Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:

- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.

Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:

- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats, motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
A page for checking gas dryers is here.

Please do rate the solution as "FixYa" and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.
Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:
- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
A page for checking gas dryers is here.

Cause 1Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is a safety device designed to protect the dryer from overheating. The fuse is located on the blower housing or at the dryer's heat source such as the heating element on electric dryers or at the burner on gas models. The fuse should be closed for continuity meaning it has a continuous electrical path through it when good. If overheated the fuse will have no continuity meaning the electrical path is broken and the fuse has blown. A multimeter can be used to test it for continuity. Be aware that a blown thermal fuse is an indication of a restricted exhaust vent from the dryer to the outside. Always check the dryer venting when replacing a blown thermal fuse.
Parts Cause 2Gas Valve Solenoid
Gas dryers have two or more gas valve solenoid coils. The gas valve solenoids open the gas valve ports to allow gas to flow into the burner assembly. If a gas valve solenoid fails, the dryer won't heat. To determine if one or more of the gas valve solenoids has failed, check the igniter. If the igniter glows and goes out but does not ignite the gas, the gas valve solenoid is defective. If one or more of the gas valve coils are defective, we recommend that you replace them as a set.
Parts Cause 3Igniter
The igniter uses heat to ignite the gas in the burner assembly. If the igniter is not working, the gas will not ignite, preventing the dryer from heating. To determine if the igniter has burned out, use a multimeter to test the igniter for continuity. If the igniter does not have continuity, replace it.