Kenmore 63942 Dryer Logo
tlux63 Posted on Jul 09, 2011
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My Kenmore gas dryer 417.90042990 will not heat. Otherwise it works fine. How can I fix it?

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  • tlux63 Jul 09, 2011

    How do I access the igniter and burner? I don't see any screws to take the front panel off.

  • tlux63 Jul 09, 2011

    The igniter had about 100 Ohms of resistance. Now I'm trying to find the thermal fuse. Is it mounted on the side of the large cylinder with two leads coming from it: orange and white? I tested for continuity between those two leads and they passed. (I don't have a screwdriver small enough to dismount it if it is the thermal fuse.)

  • tlux63 Jul 10, 2011

    Both the igniter and the thermal fuse seem fine. Could it be the coil? Where is it and how do I test it? Is there anything else to test?

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  • Posted on Jul 10, 2011
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Here is the troubleshooting order. The first thing to check is the igniter if glowing red hot when the dryer is started and runs. If it turns red hot, the problem is with the radiant sensor or the gas valve solenoid coils. The radiant sensor must align perfectly with the igniter. The radiant sensor contacts bypasses one of the gas valve solenoid coils and as the igniter heats up it makes the sensor contact trips unbypassing the coil and allowing the gas to flow and be ignited.

The problem is with the solenoid coils sitting on top of the gas valves, one with 2-prongs and the other has 3, if the igniter turns red hot and the radiant sensor is aligned with it and working perfectly but no gas is ignited. In this case, both solenoids must be replaced. The resistance of the 2-prong coils is around 1200 ohms while the 3-pronged one is around 1320 ohms between the outer prongs.

The igniter is good if it reads 100 ohms. The safety thermostat on the burner cone is blown open if the igniter does not glow red hot. Check the continuity of the safety thermostat and the cycling thermostat on the bower housing. Replace both the
safety thermostat and the cycling thermostat if the safety thermostat is found open.

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  • Posted on Jul 09, 2011
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Hi


If the dryer never heats, then there are more items to check and test. The first item is the Igniter. The igniter should glow red when the dryer is on and running. When the dryer is running 110v is being sent to the igniter to power it up. There is a Molex (clear plastic) connector attaching the Igniter to the burner circuit, disconnect this and place your probes onto the two contacts on the Igniter side of the connector. The meter should read under 100 Ohms of resistance. Any reading above this value means that the Igniter needs replacing. You will find directions for replacing an Igniter here.

If the Igniter passes your test then you need to test continuity on the flame sensor or thermal fuse, you should have continuity between the two contacts. If not, then you need to replace the flame sensor (thermal fuse). If all of the above pass their tests, you need to make certain that there isn't a buildup of dryer lint around the burner. Sometimes, lint will impede the gas flow preventing the unit from igniting.

If none of these things help, then it is time to call a professional to diagnose your problem.


Please check this helpful link to get an idea related to your issue:-


http://www.repairclinic.com/Dryer-Troubleshooting?red=Dryer-Repair-Help#theresnoheat_gas


Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.
Thank you for contacting fixya.com


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KENMORE GAS DRYER - MYSTERIOUS HEAT PROBLEM

Most times I replace the coil assy. on gas control valve. OR could be the sensor.Or both.
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