The evaporator coil will not defrost and the led display locks up lighting the last three digits on the right. The display will reset after a power interuption but locks up after a short period of time.

Clixon is an overload device designed to shut off current when too much juice is flowing within circuit. When it cools it resets itself but if condition is still present it will go out again.

what is the error code that is displayed? It is not apparent in your post...

sounds like your internal control board took an early retirement. You up to doing this yourself, or do you want to search the repair listings for someone nearby?

Hello Eddie111,
If you were to remove the rear panel on the inside rear of the freezer you would then be able to gain access to the evaporator coil, If when you gained access to the evaporator coil you then noticed any ice build up on the coil itself this would be called a defrost issue that your unit was having. This is usually due to one of three parts either the defrost thermostat, the defrost heater, or the defrost timer or in some units the adaptive control board would be showing a fault. Would need you to message me back further if you do have a defrost issue with your unit. There is also a small damper door that lets the evaporator fan motor blow cold air into the refrigerator side of the unit this damper door is controled by a thermostat that is found in the ceiling of the unit. Usually attached to the control knob that is located inside the freezer. So first thing to check for is that the fan is working on the inside of the freezer next thing would be if you have the defrost issue on the evaporator coil itself, and lastly you would check the damper door and the thermostat inside the refrigerator side of the unit. If you have any further questions message me back with your reply to the defrost question that I asked previously. Thanks again I await your reply
Rick

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
Open the freezer and locate the door / light switch. Depress the light switch plunger / actuator and make sure the light goes off and the evaporator fan comes ON. Light stays on and fan does not run = bad door switch.
Next look for signs of ice build up on the back access panel / evaporator coils. Ice block noted on coils and back access panel = evaporator fan problem or possible door switch problem.
Last open the fiberboard cover on the back of the unit and check for massive amounts of lint on the condenser coils and that the condenser fan is running. Blocked condenser coils or condenser fan not running will cause the chassis to be very warm to hot when touched.

If you do not find anything wrong by performing the steps above:

• Unplug the unit
• Remove freezer contents
• Direct an external fan into the freezer compartment for just over 2 hours (manual defrost)
• Tend to the water mess as needed
• After 2 hours wipe up any residual water and return the unit to normal service
• Check to see that the evaporator fan is running.

After a 2- 4 days look again for any signs of ice build up on the evaporator coils. If you note ice beginning to build up on the evaporator coils there is a problem with the automatic defrost circuit.
Possible automatic defrost failure causes:
1. Defrost Control
2. Defrost heater
3. Thermistor (if so equipped)
4. Defrost thermostat

That is pretty much it runs all the time but does not cool troubleshooting. You should find something out of the ordinary by following the steps above.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Hello,

The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it.

*One new safety device added to refrigerators in the last few years has been a in-line fuse added to both sides of the defrost heater. If one of these fuses let's go, you must replace the whole defrost heater, as it comes as an assembly. If the defrost heater does not work, you should check for one of these fuses being open. Check it with a volt meter or ohm meter.
On a frost free refrigerator, the cooling coils should be in the freezer section. On a SxS style refrigerator the coils will be behind a cover on the back wall. On a freezer on top style the coils could be behind the back wall or under the freezer floor. Removing the cover and exposing the evaporator coils could be a valuable tool. Seeing what the cooling coils looks like may help split your not cooling problem. Totally covered coils with white snow is a frost free problem. and the rest are bare is an indication of a system problem. Example picture one, example picture two, example picture three. System problems may be a leak in the refrigeration tubing, an inefficient not 100% pumping compressor.

Hope this helps...

if you mean the freezer froze up and you replaced the defrost thermostat in the freezer,then you need to check the continuity of the defrost heater assembly located on or under the evaporator coil for continuity(completed circuit) with at least one of the leads to it disconnected,if this shows good,then you need a new defrost timer,be it an adaptive or timer type,last but not least it could be a bad connection and this circuit could be losing power and needs to be checked,but this is very rare

Condenser coils do not freeze, it is the evaporator coils that freeze. If it is icing up then the setting is too low for the area it is in, basically the humidistat will never be satisfied so it will run continually and end up freezing the evap coils, the coils could also freeze if the filter is dirty or there is an air flow problem.

This unit has a history of problems on the refrigerator side. the basic reset is press and hold down the 2 middle buttons on the freezer at the same time. As a general rule the number one problem is in the mother board. usually you can replace it and everything will work.
David

Ok, what I found out is that there are codes built into the front panel. If you hold the top left and right buttons for 5 seconds, the fridge will reset. If there are no issues, the panel goes blank. If there is a dash in the right side of the panel, there is an issue with the fridge side. In the left, freezer side. The dash indicates a defrost problem. Only a couple of things can cause this. 1. Sensor 2. Heater 3. Fan, 4. control board.