20 Most Recent Samsung RS2534 Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers


Call warranty service if it's new

Samsung RS2534... | Answered on Nov 15, 2017


I realize this is an old answer, but I'm experiencing the same problem and found what I hope is a much simpler fix:
https://youtu.be/hAEdjhaZoaQ
This is a Youtube video which explains how air trapped in the water line can cause a drip from the dispenser. Apparently, allowing a gallon of water to flow continuously through the dispenser should...uh...dispense with the problem!
Hope this helps you, and me!

Samsung RS2534... | Answered on Aug 31, 2016


SOUNDS TO ME THE TRANSPORT AUGER MOTOR NEEDS REPLACEMENT. JUST MAKE SURE THAT ON THE CONTROL PANEL, THE CHILD INTERLOCK IS NOT ON WHICH STOPS ICE DISPENSING OPERATION. JUST DONE ONE NOW WITH THE EXACT FAULT.

Samsung RS2534... | Answered on Mar 29, 2016


you have to turn the cog on back of the ice bucket, so it will fit back into the gear socket. I have the same problem with my fridge

Samsung RS2534... | Answered on May 21, 2015


FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these

Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.

Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.

But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.


Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

THE COMPRESSOR:
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.

To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somes located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity

Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.








Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ






Samsung RS2534... | Answered on Apr 10, 2015


check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!

Samsung RS2534... | Answered on Apr 10, 2015


I also had the ice tray stuck in the dump position. I unplugged it waited 5 minutes and pluged it back in. And the Ice tray moved back into the correct fill position, and the arm did drop down, But now it has not filled with any water. So now what should I try?

Samsung RS2534... | Answered on Mar 20, 2015


Hi,

In case the ice is not getting ejected and seems to be stuck in the ice maker, the defect lies in the ejector mechanism. Since the ice maker cannot eject the ice, you need to put it to the manual shut off mode, so that ice maker doesn't continue to make more ice. In such a scenario, you will need to shut off the power to the freezer for carrying out the repair, so if you are not comfortable with handling electrical appliances, you could seek professional help.

Samsung RS2534... | Answered on Mar 05, 2015


you need to check the refrigerator defrost sensor connection thats behid the light bulb in the middle of the refrigerator section

Samsung RS2534... | Answered on Mar 03, 2015


The mechanism (motor) in the tray housing is bad. Trying to manually turn the tray to dump the ice can actually do the harm to the motor. Not advised. You'll need to buy a new Tray Assembly.

Samsung RS2534... | Answered on Jan 10, 2015


either the door seals have gone bad or it is not being closed correctly or the condensation line is plugged

Samsung RS2534... | Answered on Jan 06, 2015

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