Question about Kenmore 73502 / 73504 / 73509 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator
I have a Trio model 795.46400 that just started displaying the following on the lcd display:
Filter Reset lit -- Freezer temp reads -88 -- Express Freeze symbol is lit -- Frig temp reads 88 and Lock is lit
Food in the frig is freezing and the lower sides of the unit feel warmer than they have in the past. The panel is locked and will not unlock. Water no longer dispenses which may possibly be from being frozen as well.
I called Sears who can't get here for 9 days! After reading hundreds of horror stories on various internet sites about recalls, motor fires, spoiled food, flooded floors, etc., I was hoping the customer service rep could at least look up the error code to make sure it's not something serious. I usually don't take out the extended service on things, but am sure glad I did non this frig. I love its features and convenience, but this will be probably the 4th time it's beig serviced. Additionally, I sent Sears tech support an email. Given Sears history of poor and slow service, I'm hoping someone out there might know what this means.
Dear, u can try one thing it may work out but u may have to scarifice ur contents in the fridge.. switch off the fridge for about 5-6hrs.. it wud be best if its kept for one day... then look for water dispensers... clean them up.. and also check for any pungent or foul smell.. and then turn it on with all minimum settings..
Posted on Aug 05, 2008
An alternative supposition:
the 88 is not an error code; to my thinking, it is all the segments of the display 8 lighted up as 6 could be displayed with the top right segment dimmed or a 9 with the bottom left segment dimmed.
This is indicative of a logic/driver problem and therefore would be the main controller board which could likewise explain all other indicators are lit.
The fastest/easiest user action possible is to reset and unplug from the mains in the hope that it is just a system's glitch. Trying again after a few hours. Should this be not corrective, the only option left would be to wait for the authorized service personnel or perform a DIY (do-it-yourself).
Hope this be of additional help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.
Posted on Aug 05, 2008
As to the 88 display, there is one thing to try but it is a longshot:
Try to press the Energy Saver and Freezer temp buttons at the same time for 5 seconds, see what happens.
The 88 is not a used error code.
If that does not work then, I believe that Sears will be replacing your main board (motherboard)for this unit, as it sounds like it is bad.
Sorry for your trouble!
Posted on Aug 04, 2008
A refrigerator or freezer that doesn't cool well enough may
problem with its evaporator coils, condenser, or condenser fan motor.
Frost build-up on evaporator coils, or condenser coils that are covered
with dirt, dust, or lint can reduce how well a refrigerator can cool.
If you notice ice getting thicker on the inside walls, inside bottom,
or inside ceiling of the freezer, you have what is called a frost
build-up. The problem is either with warm, moist air getting in through
an old inefficient door gasket or the defrost system.
Self-defrosting refrigerators have coils and a cooling fan that need to be cleaned regularly. If the coils get coated with any contaminants, they may not cool the refrigerator properly. The coils are usually thin and black and they go through fins that dissipate heat, just like a car's radiator. They are located behind the lower kick-panel or on the back of the refrigerator. To clean them, turn the power off and use this condenser coil cleaning brush, or this condenser coil cleaning brush , and your vacuum cleaner. Even if your coils are below the refrigerator, you won't be able to get to all the condenser coils from the front, so it's a good idea to pull the refrigerator out and clean the coils from the front and the rear of the refrigerator. Give the fan a dusting as well. Sometimes other things can be the reason behind poor cooling, like the condenser fan motor. Anytime the freezer fan is running, the condenser fan should also be running.
A frost build-up inside the refrigerator usually means that there is a problem in the self-defrost system. You may even have damaged door gaskets. When you open the refrigerator door, you also let in a blast of warm, often humid air. This moisture usually freezes onto the evaporator coils immediately. Self-defrost refrigerators are supposed to self-defrost between two and four times out of every 24 hour time-frame. They basically turn off for a few minutes several times a day. A defrost heater kicks on to melt any frost build-up on these coils, which allows the frost and ice to melt, then it drains off to the pan underneath most refrigerators. Unfortunately, when a defrost component fails, too much frost builds up on the evaporator coils. When this happens, the circulating fan can't draw air over these coils. With no air flow over the evaporator coils, the refrigerator compartment will lose its cool.
To determine if the self defrost system is faulty, it's best to remove all the food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn your thermostat to the Off setting, and just leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours, and let the refrigerator defrost. Keep an eye out for an overflow of water from the drip pan on the bottom of the refrigerator.
After everything has completely melted away, set the thermostat back to a regular setting. If your refrigerator starts operating properly, the symptoms lead to there being a problem with one of three other components in the self-defrosting system, the defrost heater, the defrost timer, or the defrost thermostat.
If, after testing these components, the refrigerator still doesn't get your foods cool, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level and you will need to contact a professional appliance repair person.
Posted on Aug 04, 2008
What is the error code that is displayed? It is not apparent in your post...
Posted on Aug 04, 2008
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