Washer fills wont wash or spin out water makes noise and a very small amount of water flow's from the holes on the front left of the tub

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When my washer did that, I found that the shocks that hold the tub were bad...

Check out this tip I wrote about the noise and vibration that front load washers can make..

Washer Problems Washer noise when spinning

heatman101

if it is right after the drain cycle; it then goes into a spin. It then starts to fill with water for the rinse while the tub is still turning. The water entering the tub while the tub is spinning, cleans the tub of soap and the water going through the holes in the tub are causing the noise. It is normal if only in the rinse cycle.

Is it filling with water?

sounds like the pressure switch line is plugged. remove the front panel by inserting a putty knife between the front panel and the main top an inch or so from either side to release the locking tabs. the clear tube to the left side needs to be removed and cleaned thoroughly, while the tube is removed begin filling the unit with hot water untill water comes out of the spout the tube came off of. reinstall the tube and test to make sure the water level shuts off at all levels. the largest level should stop right around the top level of tub holes.

Hi

Thanks for using FixYa. If your washer is a front load washer then check these things if it is making noise--
Bellows
The bellows is a rubber sleeve that seals the suspended outer tub to the stationary cabinet front at the tub opening. Its purpose is to provide a water tight opening into the tub that can be sealed by the cabinet door, yet allow flexibility for the oscillation of the tub during the wash and spin cycles.
Outer Tub Assembly
The outer tub assembly is supported by two suspension springs and stabilized by two air shock assemblies. A cement counter weight is mounted to the front of the outer tub by screws. A counterweight is molded into the rear half of the outer tub. These counterweights prevent excessive oscillation of the entire suspended assembly during an unbalanced spin cycle.
Spin Basket Assembly
The spin basket is constructed of stainless steel. The circumference of the basket is perforated to allow water to flow through it as it revolves. A heavy steel shaft is pressed into the spin basket support which is then bolted to the basket. The spin basket assembly is entirely supported by two ball bearings pressed into the rear of the outer tub. A large drive pulley is mounted to the free end of the shaft that extends through the rear of the outer tub. There are three plastic vanes mounted to the spin basket to aid in the washing action during the wash cycle. The rotation of the spin basket provides both the washing action during the wash cycle, and water extraction during the spin cycle.


High pitch "jet engine" noise--A certain amount of motor whine is normal during the spin cycle.


Rattling and clanking noise--
• Foreign objects such as coins or safety pins may be in drum or pump. Stop washer and check drum. If noise continues after washer is restarted, objects may be in pump.
• Belt buckles and metal fasteners are hitting wash drum. To prevent unnecessary noise and damage to drum, fasten fasteners and turn items inside out.

Squealing sound or hot rubber odor-- Washer is overloaded. Do not overload washer. Stop washer and reduce load.

Thumping sound— Heavy wash loads may produce a thumping sound. This is usually normal. If sound continues, washer is probably out of balance. Stop washer and redistribute wash load.

Vibrating noise--
• Washer is not resting firmly on floor. Move washer so it rests firmly on floor. Adjust leveling legs. NOTE: Some shaking of the washer is normal without moving across the floor. See INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS for details.
• Shipping bolts and foam blocks have not been removed during installation. See INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS for removing shipping bolts and foam blocks.
• Wash load unevenly distributed in drum. Stop washer and rearrange wash load.


Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.


Thanks

Rylee

Sounds like a bad lid switch. When you close the top lid, there is a safety switch that closes, it is actuated by a pin attached to the lid, there will be a small hole located on top of the machine, somewhere on the perimter of the top of the tub. Could also be a bad timer.

You have a bad water level switch or a clogged plastic hose that goes to the water level switch.
Use a putty knife to open the front panel. The clips are at the top right and left sides just below the top lid. Push in on the clips and pull out on the panel.
On the left side of the tub you will see the air dome with aplastic hose connected.
Remove the hose and insert a small wire into the air dome hole to clean it out ouf soap scum. Then, blow through the hose and listen for a faint click in the water level switch. Also check the hose for a hole or being pinched.
The set the timer for spin and run a spin cycle then retry the water level and wash cycle.

Problem stated is not clear. You can clarify. Could be the drain pump operation and sometimes from the flow meter itself. The first thing to check is to drop the bottom panel and make sure the drain filter is clean. It sits right in front and just unscrews. Make sure to have enough towels on hand to soak up the water that is left in the tub. After you have checked this make sure both water valves are turned on, clear the error by pressing pause/cancel twice. Check to make sure the drain hose is not kinked and that there is no siphon problem.(Check your pump too now that you've opened up) If the error still returns after checking the above, the next thing to suspect is the flow meter itself. This sits right in line with the water inlet valves. It's just a reed valve that measures the amount of water entering the washer and monitors the pressure switch. You can access it by removing the top and it will be on the left side in line with the inlet valve. Look for holes in this tube, change if any.

A common problem with noises from washing machines has been the under wire that may come out of small clothes. In the washer they can get stuck in one of the inner basket holes and make a scrapping noise, they can actually make there way into the pump and jam the pump, or make a terrible noise when the pump is running. Grab a flash light and have a peek inside the washer for this. Front load washers seem very common to this happen! If the tiny cloth  is showing signs of fraying, may be best not to wash it in the washing machine, replace the cloth.


Maytag Dependable care washer.....Locate a 1/4 inch screw on the side of the agitator, ( about 3/4 of the way down) remove this screw and lift up on the agitator...picture.
 
Maytag Atlantis, Norge, Performa by Maytag.....Remove the cap and softener dispenser by pulling it off and locate the agitator bolt, remove bolt and lift up on the agitator...picture.


Water level controls - The water level control is also know as a pressure switch, this is where you set the water level ( small - medium - large ). The water level control is responsible to shut off the power to the fill valve and direct that power to the timer so the washing machine can start up. The WLC has electrical contacts in it that sends power to the fill valve and when the WLC is satisfied the water level is correct the electrical contacts open power to the fill valve and send the power to the timer and the washer starts. Picture of this here. How the water level control knows when it is time to shut the water off is, a air tight hose runs from the outer washer tank to the water level control. As the water fills the outer tank air is pushed up the hose, depending on which setting you have made ( small- medium - large ) is takes a certain amount of this pressure to make the WLC cycle over and shut off the water and send this power to the timer. If this hose develops a leak or a pin hole the washer can over fill as the WLC may not be able to shut the water off. The water level control can also break down and allow the washer to over fill as well.
Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.
A couple of tips from readers (Thankx!! ):
~ If you have a loose hose on the water level control or tank end, use a plastic wire tie to help hold the hose tighter and make a tight fit.
~ The water level tube (tube that runs from the square box), access panel on the outer drum where the bleach tube also ends) from the pressure sensor switch (front panel) can become clogged.  Or the two holes from the outer tub into this square box panel on the outside of the outer tub can become clogged. Either clog, I am told by my help repair guy can cause the sensor to think that there is still too much water in the tub and so will not allow motor to activate spin.
~ If the water level control contact is bad, it may also stop the filling ok, but not tell the washer to start agitating.
 

Ok can you take the front panel of the washer off easily?

If you can look for the motor pump assembly. Start the washer with no load, turn the water level down to the small and fill with water when it goes into agitation does it make the noise? if not turn timer to spin and see if motor makes the noise.

One other thought, maybe the smell is coming from the dryer?

Let me know. I wont be on line again until Friday Sorry