Question about Optoma hd806 DLP Projector

1 Answer

Hi! The image on the projector doesnt have good blacks. It,s too grey. I trie ti adjust it in contrast and brightness without success. Is there anynother waybto fix this? Thanks!

Posted by on

  • flavioernest May 28, 2010

    Thank you very much!

×

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Master
  • 4,924 Answers

Just default all settings ..and if it is possible adjust from the device connected to it ..if the actual playback is made from another device ..if not ..the only issue to check is the other image settings if it has ...the gray color may be a result of a Gamma setting too high ..or saturation too low..If it has such controls try to adjust it from there ..if it do not ..than it is a physical damage

Posted on May 28, 2010

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

TI-83 have adjusted the brightness but can't type or see flashing indicator


If the screen is not busted, adjust the contrast without going all the way to totally dark or to totally blank. Calculators do occasionally become unusable (old age, mishandling).

Mar 01, 2014 | Texas Instruments TI-83 Plus Calculator

1 Answer

Hitachi CP-X1250 MULTIMEDIA PROJECTOR - MENU> MAIN> BRIGHT and CONTRAST are not active. BRIGHT and CONTRAST How to enable? I can not make adjustment.


hi,
Go to menu and then select main. then select reset and execute it.After that try to adjust the brightness and contrast.
Remember on thing, in some projectors the brightens and contrast will be active when there is video signal. also try that.
ok

Jan 26, 2011 | Hitachi CP-X1250 Multimedia Projector

2 Answers

In the past few day i've noticed the picture is


BRIGHTNESS. Your owner's manual probably says that the brightness setting is used to control "brightness" or "picture intensity" or something other fuzzy non-descript term. The truth is that brightness is used to set the BLACK level in the picture.
On most TVs and projectors in use today, brightness is set too high. That's because people think "a bright picture is good, so I will set it as bright as I can get." Well, that's nice in theory, but entirely wrong in practice. Setting the brightness level too high makes a black tuxedo look gray rather than black. It muddies up the shadow areas, and reduces the overall snap and crispness that the picture would have if properly calibrated.
To find the right setting for brightness, go to the image in your movie that has textured blacks and hopefully some shadow/low light areas in which there is detail. Then freeze on that frame. As you move the brightness control down, the intensity of the blacks will increase, and shadows will get darker. As you move the control all the way to zero, you will (hopefully) see that the low light shadow areas will also go to solid black and lose their detail.
The optimum setting for brightness is achieved at just the point where true black objects appear as black as your system will make them while retaining as much visible detail in the shadow areas. Above this point the blacks appear to go grayer. Below this point you lose detail in the shadows. On many video systems, this optimum point is toward the lower end of the brightness scale. But find the point that looks correct to you regardless of where it is on the scale.
CONTRAST. The contrast control is similarly confusing. It is also often set too high on the theory that contrast is good, and therefore we might as well get the most we can out of our set by turning it all the way up. In fact, the contrast setting is used to control the intensity of the brightest highlights in the picture, so it is (oddly enough) the opposite of brightness control.
First, find your test scene in which you find textured whites in bright light, and freeze that frame. You are looking for the brightest elements in the picture in which you want to retain visible detail.
Let's assume you have a whitewashed fence in sunlight. If you start with the contrast set low, the fence will appear light gray rather than white. As you move the contrast control up, the fence will get whiter. Eventually details in the texture of the fence will begin to disappear.
If you continue to push contrast past the optimum point, the wood-grain texture of the fence will go solid white and all visible detail will be obliterated. Push contrast up even a little further, and our fenceposts might actually appear to expand very slightly due to a glow around the edges. This phenomenon, called "blooming" is a definite sign that your contrast setting is overcooking the image (and maybe your picture tube as well—don't ever leave the contrast control set this high!!!)
Find the point at which whites look white while retaining as much texture detail as possible. This is your optimum contrast setting. On most video systems, this setting is toward the higher end of the scale, but it can be anywhere. Find the point that looks correct to you. (By the way, unlike TV's, digital projectors will not bloom)
Now…note the following: brightness and contrast can be to some degree interactive. Your new contrast setting may have affected your brightness. So return to the brightness scene and verify that your blacks are still black, and you still have maximum detail in the shadows. Adjust it if necessary, then return and adjust the contrast setting once again if necessary. (You can see that this is much easier if the black and white elements you are testing all appear in the same image!)
COLOR. The color control on your set determines the level of color intensity in the image. One of the most common errors people make in calibrating their video systems is overdriving the color. That's what makes Larry King look reddish-orange on the TV at the gym. Overdriving color is common because once again, people naturally think, "I want to get as much color as I can out of this color TV, so I will crank it up some to make sure I get the most out of it!" No. Bad mistake.
If you move the color setting down to zero you will notice that your picture will turn into a black and white image. The optimum setting for color is achieved by increasing the setting just to the point where colors look natural and not a bit more! Flesh tones should look natural and without any hint of an unnatural glow. Grass should look naturally green rather than screaming spray-paint green.
When adjusting color, make sure that your test image has relatively unsaturated colors. Flesh tones or natural landscapes are ideal. It is impossible to set color properly if you are using a brilliant red Ferrari as your test subject.
On the large majority of video systems, the optimum setting for color is somewhere near the middle of the scale. However, trust your eyes for the optimum setting and think "what looks like the most natural, accurate reproduction of reality?" Any overdriving of color will make the image look artificial.
TINT or HUE. The tint control adjusts color balance rather than color intensity. It is an easy control to set properly, but for some reason many people don't get it right. When flesh tones look either too green or too magenta, a phenomenon you see with amazing frequency, it is because the tint control is not set properly.
Find a human face and freeze-frame it. (In choosing your test subject, note that lighter skin tones will show errors in tint more readily than darker skin tones). As you move the tint control to one end of the spectrum, the face turns green; as you move it to the other extreme, the face turns magenta (red+blue).
The correct setting for tint is the point near the middle of the scale at which you can detect no hint of either green or magenta. It is the most neutral point between the two extremes. The flesh tone looks the most natural at this point.
SHARPNESS or DETAIL. The final setting is sharpness or detail. Now, pray tell, who in their right mind wouldn't want the sharpest, most detailed picture they could get? And since there is a control that lets you turn it up, why not turn it up? That's what many folks do, and of course it's exactly the wrong thing to do.
The sharpness control adds processed information to the picture that is NOT part of the original video signal. It adds artificially highlighted edges, and makes the picture look less natural than it otherwise would. This is most evident along the continuous edge of a dark object against a middle-toned background. When sharpness is overdriven the dark edge will be outlined by a white ringing effect that increases contrast just along the edge of your dark object. That edge "highlighting" effect is created by the sharpness control. It is an artificial manipulation of the image. It wasn't in the original scene, and it shouldn't be on your screen either.
On most televisions, the optimum setting for sharpness is zero. On many digital projectors, the optimum setting is either in the low or middle part of the scale. Picture tube televisions and digital projectors behave differently in this regard; on a digital projector it is often possible to fuzz the image by setting sharpness too low.
Now look at your picture with the sharpness turned down or off depending on what works best on your system. You will see a smoother, more natural image. It might take some getting used to, since you may be accustomed to viewing video with all the artificial edge enhancements that create the illusion of added sharpness.
However, when the interference and noise from the artificial sharpness enhancer is removed, you are seeing the most genuine reproduction of the video signal that your projector or TV is capable of. And if you view it for a while, you will gain an appreciation for just how smooth, natural, and satisfying the picture can really look.

Dec 12, 2009 | Sony Grand WEGA KDF-55XS955 55" Rear...

2 Answers

We replaced all the projectors in our school 18 months ago for the XE31 projectors, we have had to replace all the bulbs already! and they are originals from Sanyo on the voucher offer, but they still...


My friend, i'm sorry and i hope your sitting down. The person who made the decision to change out the products was not educated about projection enough to make this decision. Let me explain. Your previous projector was 3000 lumens, and had better contrast, but had a lower resolution. The replacement projector was 1500 lumens and poor contrast, but higher resolution. You have basically halfed, your output brightness. The decision maker went the wrong way for this product selection. Brighter is better in the education enviorment.

The good news is lcd projectors only last about 4000 operational hours so you can replace them with a dlp product that will last 8-10 years. good luck

Good luck

Jul 02, 2009 | Sanyo FOR PLC-XE31

1 Answer

Need help with a Benq PB6100 projector. The image is partial bright and clear, partially dim.


1st you have to connect your cables correctly, than set up your contrast in 50 if your contrast is in lower level, than adjust the sharpen and brightness with perfect adjustment remember do not place it near a woofer or speaker

For reminding me : trimoxibit@live.com dim

Jun 21, 2009 | BenQ PB6100 Multimedia Projector

1 Answer

Greenish picture when i play my Compaq Ipaq MP3800 projector


The greenish image is due just by one sof the terminals of the cable. You just need to replace it. Or try anothr RGB cable and look what happen.

Nov 18, 2008 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

Lately, all "white" objects, text, spaceships, etc. have "glows"


Do you also have a glow around the projected image, try projecting on a white wall without any borders. The cause for this is dirt inside the lens elements diffusing the light.

Oct 22, 2007 | InFocus ScreenPlay 4805 Multimedia...

4 Answers

Ultrascan P1110 to Bright....


hi sounds like you have weak picture tubes do not open the screen ***DANGER OF ELECTROCUTION AND DEATH*** try taking to some1 who knows how 2 fix it good luck

Feb 22, 2006 | Dell UltraScan P1110 21" CRT Monitor

Not finding what you are looking for?
Optoma hd806 DLP Projector Logo

Related Topics:

25 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Optoma Office Equipment & Supplies Experts

color wheel light...
color wheel light...

Level 2 Expert

138 Answers

Electro Med Services...
Electro Med Services...

Level 3 Expert

6694 Answers

The Knight
The Knight

Level 3 Expert

73619 Answers

Are you an Optoma Office Equipment and Supply Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...