TV-430 i have one of these pocket TV's. Its dead. The Clock crystal is working but no picture or sound. Some filter electrolytic Caps are heating up. i have 6v DC supplied. Please email me at " [email protected]"

Sounds like the inverter if the audio still works if the audio goes out too then the main board would be suspect. The people over at www.tvrepairworld.com can help you determine which board is causing it and they also have the replacement boards available.

l suspect power supply board has failed---someone would have to open and check all voltage going in and out of the board----if outs are missing (any) the board would have to be replaced.

If you get it open examine the filter caps on the power supply board to see if any are puffed up on top---the tops are silver and should be perfectly flat with no brown material leaking out at top or bottom.

I suspect based on description a component (likely a big IC) failed and they are usually covered with a metal heat sink (plate) so cannot be actually seen---they pop and dead set.
Typical filter cap (capacitor)

It sounds like one of the electrolytic caps just blew, on the power supply, and it will be real noticeable when you take the back off and see it. There will be a couple more caps that will be bulged and need replaced, or just replace power supply.

More often than not, this is caused by faulty sustain boards. I would like you to take off the back cover and observe for faulty caps on the two boards labelled X-main and Y-Main. The electrolytic caps(will be cylindrical in shape and will have an X mark at the top)caps will be bulged, cracked or blown off if they are bad. If its ceramic caps you are bound to see some burn marks on the board near them. Look for any other signs of evident damage, and if you find any replace both of the sustain boards(should cost you around 150-200$) as these boards usually take out one another when they go bad.

In many cases on this tv the problem can be electrolytic capacitors failing on the power supply PC board. this is located at the top of the assembly. Required good soldering techniques to repair. The last one I repaired also had two shorted transistors. If the caps are 10uF @ 450V. Check the transistors on the heat sync adjacent to the capacitors for possible short.

my POlaroid 37" did same thing blue light stayed on no pic or sound was 2 electrolytic caps on power supply board took back off and they were noticably bulged at top radio shack sells these caps at $3 apiece fixed mine works like new saw a video on here how to do it

LG has a problem with bad electrolytic caps-remove cover look for swollen caps-replace all swollen caps

Tony,
From what you're describing it sounds like ring-cracked solder joints or maybe a couple of failed caps. What's the model number???
Ring cracks happen because a component on the board gets hot and cools many thousands of times over the life of the Tv and the extreme heat causes the solder to crystal and break leaving the smallest of rings around where the coponent would otherwise firmly be soldered, breaking contact with the board. The other possibility is one or more electrolytic capacitors measure high equivilent series resistance and take more time (thus heat) to reach an operating temp sufficient to dissipate voltage at a correct rate.
Drop me a post and let me know what the model number is and I can look it up for common problems in the schematics and service manual.
Bill

BTW: Uk is a bit beyond my normal servicing route... :)

William Rayburn, CET
Premium Technologies
PO Box 442
Long Beach, WA. 98631
360-642-4993
[email protected]

Replace the horizontal output transistor (Q502) and check the electrolytic caps in the vicinty, unsing an ESR meter. PLEASE NOTE THAT THE TV TUBE MIGHT BE CHARGE WITH ABOUT 27,000 VOLTS.

See This Link

or read below:

This sounds more like a vertical deflection fault rather than a horizontal fault. I have my doubts has anything to do with the flyback, unless it is one of the supply voltages from that section.
Most of the common failures in your model series for this type of fault are many of the electrolytic caps and cold solder connections to the output devices since they run very hot.
Use a heat gun and circuit freeze to troubleshoot for the fault. Heat the caps in the vertical deflection area, and then test them with an ESR meter. You can then use the circuit freeze to test the questionable caps in the cold state after you find them to be failing from heat.
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JANA