Stops mid cycle with f35 error code. I removed pump face and removed a small piece of plastic but no change in the operation. I ran the steam test which said it was good "yes". f35 is supposed to be code for steam problem.

Hi

The error code F35 is commonly associated with the Sud error, which comes on within a minute of running any cycle. It means the Analog Pressure Sensor (small plastic electronic circuit) has gone bad. It could also mean the Air Pressure Tube from the Sensor has a hole or isn't connected.
Once you get the new Sensor, remove the 3 screws holding the top panel inplace - they are on the backside on the very top. Remove the top and look at the far back upper right corner (looking from the front). There is a small crimson & black piece attached to the metal side wall with 5 blue wires& 1 black wire (pressure tube) attached to it. Make sure there are no leaks or disconnects...if not, then replace with new sensor.

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I blew mine out with compressed air and it worked, You have to take the cover off and remove the small rubber hose. Then blow out the hose and blow into the small hole on the sensor. It is easy to remove from the machine, 3 screws in the back then remove the rubber hose, twist the unit so the bottom is facing the back of the washer and it pops right out, then remove the wire plug.

WARNING: THIS WRITE-UP IS COMPLETELY MY OPINION BASED ON MY EXPERIMENTATION WITH THE EQUIPMENT. TRY ANY OF IT AT YOUR OWN RISK. YOU WILL BE SOLELY RESPONSIBLE FOR ALL THE CONSEQUENCES (GOOD OR BAD EITHER WAY) THAT YOU MAY REAP FROM THE MACHINE YOU WORK ON.

I made the biggest mistake of taking the whirpool WFW9600TA01 from US to India - I had been totally frustrated with the SUDS/F35 issue, absolutely as explained in the question above.

I started as a novice but feel very confident to write this solution now. There are several areas that could cause this problem. Fundamentally, as the water fills the tub, the pressure form the pressure switch is sensed. If the value is not in line with what is programmed, you get this error. This deviation in pressure value can be caused by any of the below reasons.

First and foremost thing I would do is remove (disassemble - note very carefully the assembly and the position before disassembling. You will need to reassemble in the exact same way in the exact same position) and clean all the pipes, hoses and connectors

Details:

The problem could occur because of:

1. True suds formation due to wrong soap usage (pretty often the problem) - Solution for this? - use a lot of vinegar and a few "risnse and spin" cycles with out any clothes in the washer

2. The pressure switch could have gone bad. Solution - replace the pressure switch (I would do this the last though)

3. There could be dirt collected at the water inlet. Solution remove the water inlet and clean the cup shaped strainer

4. Your outlet/drain pump (the one that pumps the water out of the washer into the drain) may have worn out, there by not draining out all the water. This will leave residual water impacting the next run. Solution replace the pump assembly

5. There may be particle collection such as coins pens, small pins etc in the darn pump inlet strainer causing the drain pump to not work properly and in turn causing SUDS/F35. Solution - remove the front of the drain pump inlet and remove the particles and restart.

6. There is a conical shaped connector connecting the outlet of the tub to the inlet of the drain pump. At one side of this connector (the broader side connecting to the tub) there is a plastic ball in it. If the ball is punctured, water may have collected in it causing it to weigh more than what it is supposed to. When the drain pump runs, the weight of this ball may counter act to not allow proper draining of the water. This residual accumulation of the water will cause SUDS/F35 in the next cycle. Solution - replace that flexible connector. Atleast drain the water from the front at the drain pump inlet, if you want the washer to work for that cycle.

7. There is a small white plastic tube at the back which runs a black tube to the pressure swtich. The assembly is pretty interesting. It is a simple insertion with the air tightness being achieved by a simple rubber gasket covering the insertable part (do not know why the design is such). After a few washes due to the vibration generated by the tub during wash, this gasket can move causing air leaks. Such air leaks do not cause any issue to the current run, but will result in a SUDS/F35 in the next run. It will remain so for al the next runs unless it is re-inserted properly. Solution for this? every time open the rear and make sure the plastic white part is pushed in well.

8. There are other reasons like the main control circulatory / mother board could have gone bad etc. You can figure if this is the problem by running the diagnostic tests for the most part - there is a good chance that only a certified technician can tell you. Solution - replace the mother board (quite stupid huh!!)

9. Finally, the steamer assembly could have gone bad - Although the manual says this, I cannot quite figure out how this would affect the pressure buildup in the tub - I do not know what to do. More than likely if you invite a technician, the person might ask you to replace this assembly.

Try everything - the net effect should be that you have plugged all air leaks. I know some expect to see water leaks at place where air leak exists. That may not be true at all. Good luck with everything.

Pressure Switch failure - remove the hose at the top of the machine, and blow in it to clear moisture/buildup.
If not - replace the Pressure switch.


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This one is complicated, and could involve drain pump operation or pressure switch hose condition. Behind the bottom panel, there is a detailed troubleshooting guide, and goes into detail about possible solutions to this problem. The bottom panel has three small bolts (facing outward), remove them and the panel comes off, and the guide is in plastic, glued to the back of the panel. Hope this helps.

F35 has to do with the pressure switch which is located under the top panel on the back right. It will have a little black hose hooked to it. This happens when SUDS or detergent somehow gets up into it and usually locks unit out. Only solution is to replace pressure switch. You can find the tech sheet behind the bottom front panel usually tape to the back side of that panel or taped to the bottom right side inside unit. Hope this helps

Sud= The unit has sensed there is too many suds in the unit it will flush and pump out for 5 min and restart on its own..This is caused by too much soap use..
From the book :
SUD Code=
If too much detergent was used:
—Run the unit through a Rinse/Spin cycle.
—Run a Normal cycle without adding any detergent.
This should clear the unit of the excess detergent.
1. Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged
or kinked.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Check wire harness connections to the drain pump,
pressure switch, and Central Control Unit (CCU).
4. Check/clean drain pump filter of foreign objects.
5. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
6. Check drain pump.
7. Check the pressure switch.
8. Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic test or any
cycle.

HELLO.F35 IS A ERROR CODE WHICH NEEDS THE ASSISTANCE OF A WHILPOOL SERVICE AGENT.THE CONTROL BOARD MIGHT NEED TO BE REPROGRAMED BEFOR YOU CONSIDER REPLACING IT.GOODLUCK.MOHAMED

F35 is a water level error.
The water level switch (pressure switch) has malfunctioned.

If you remove the top panel, three screws in the back, you will have access to the pressure switch.

With the tub empty, remove the vinyl hose from the switch and blow backwards through the hose to clear any restrictions.

If the fault codes return after doing this, you will likely need to replace the pressure switch.


Also - please be sure to use He soap.

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Our new Whirlpool Duet had the same problem after only three months of use. We contacted Whirlpool since the washer is still under warranty. The issue is a "bad pressure switch". The part number is W10156252. Service company replaced the part yesterday, and the washer is working like normal. Whirlpool nor the service company had any explanation why the part would go bad in such a short time. No charge since the washer is under warranty.

WARNING - There must be a shortageWe were initially told that the part was backordered for 2 to 3 weeks. We even tried to obtain the part through other vendors and got the same time frame. Furious with the potential of being without a brand new washer for 3 weeks, we spent many hours on the phone with Whirlpool trying to expedite the part. After some strong encouragement and moving the issue up the chain of customer service, Whirlpool agreed to pull a part from the factory inventory where the washers are built. The only problem is that nobody could tell us when, or if, the new part would be shipped. Suddenly, the part just arrived by FedEx at our house. In all, our washer was inoperable for 1 week. Be persistent. They will tell you over and over there is nothing they can do.

If you negotiate well, Whirlpool will extend your factory warranty for an additional year.