Question about Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
One side of the element powers from the timer and the other side from the motor . Remove one wire from the element , and check which wire is not getting 120 V . Trace the wire NOT getting 120V and it will lead either to the timer or the motor , providing that the small t-stat looking piece (thermal cut-off) located close to the top of the heater box , shows continuity . If it does not , then pt # 3392519 is for it and the hi-limit t-stat . If you replace it , then replace both that come in the kit .
Posted on Jul 19, 2009
The best condition for you would be a broken belt. That can be seen by first removing power to the product. Remove two srews from the rear of the top cover. Slide the cover back slightly while lifting up on the rear. A large pulley will be visible on the rear of the tub, and this pulley should have a flat belt on it. If you see the belt, and are unable to lift it up, then it's not broken. At that point you should consider calling a qualified service technician to diagnose your problem. It can be a failed motor (your unit has two motors.....one is the drive motor, the second is the pump motor), a failed motor speed control board, or a bad electrical connection.
Posted on Nov 22, 2010
SOURCE: Unit turns off after 2
The thermal fuse may be defective that protects the magnetron, when the magnetron gets to hot the thermal fuse will open, possible causes a malfunctioning fan "cools the magnetron" a defective magnetron, or a bad thermal fuse, "resets when cools" and keypad issues.
Posted on Jan 30, 2011
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