Doesn't do anything??

most likely you have a bad ignitor,this is the first thing that goes,if it glows and doesn't ignite the flame within 40 seconds after it starts to glow the ignitor is still bad even though it glows orange.if it's a flat ignitor it takes 3.2 amps for the ignitor to open the gas valve and ignite the flame,if it's a round ignitor it takes 2.5 amps to fire it up.you don't have to shut the gas down,if it's a fairly new machine no electricity will go to the ignitor either if it's shut off but you can shut the breaker down if you want.the machines are not like the older machines where you lite it with a match,they are electronic ignition so check the ignitor first,if it doesn't glow at all you can check the ignitor for continuity with a meter.if you need any more help send the full model number off of the machine,open the bottom draw under the oven door,look on the frame,left or right side and you'll see a tag with the model number on it.good luck and happy new year.

pull out the racks and remove the bottom floor of the oven,turn it on bake,if the ignitor doesn't glow most likely it's bad,if it does glow and it doesn't ignite within 40 to 60 seconds the ignitor is bad.even though it glows doesn't mean it's good,it works by amps.it takes 3.2 amps.for a flat ignitor to open the gas valve and 2.5 amps for a round ignitor to open the gas valve.

i have sansa e250. when i switch it on only blue light glows all round the joystick. i could not switch on my sansa. i tried resetting by pressing menu key for more than 15secs, also i removed and re-installed the battery but it is not working. pls solve

Before you invest in a long drawn out Glow Plug replacement etc. A little known issue occurs on the ALH TDI engines. The temperature sensor sending unit. A small blue module that plugs into the coolant hose assembly will cause a P error on the glow plugs that is nothing to do with the glow plugs at all. The part fails and sends a temp error to the engine computer. I tested all the coolant glow plugs, engine glow plugs and glow plug harness and all worked fine. One of the test procedures for the glow plugs is to undo this sensor that will force the glow plugs to come on no matter what temperature. This confirmed my GP system was functional and the sensor was bad. I purchased the part from local VW dealer for $33 US and installed and it is fine. Dependent on your model it can be square or round. The link to this part for your car is http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1997/volkswagen/jetta/body_electrical/water_temperature_sender.html

Be sure to have VW Pentosin coolant on hand to refill coolant system as you will lose quite a bit when removing this part. It is located slightly behind the coolant glow plug assembly.. This is the round ones not the ones on the engine block at top.

Be sure that when you replace it you put in a new rubber gasket seal.. its a round rubber seal that should come with your new part. Dont reuse the old one or you will have a leak.

There is a c-clip that holds this in the hole you slide that clip off and wiggle the sensor out. Coolant will run out of the hole, so do this outside. The sensor is easily pulled out. You will need to insert the new part in teh same hole with new rubber gasket and replace c clip. Then plug in wiring harness and you should be good to go.

Gain access to the main control board , behind the refrig . Unplug the refrig . On the board , remove the blue plug , with 3 larger wires . The terminals on the plug , should be : wire1 , wire2 , space , wire3 . Using a short piece of insulated wire , with both ends stripped about 1 /4 " , insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . Plug refrig back in , and look in the freezer section at the bottom , behind the crisper , to see if a red heater glow occures . May take a minute or so . If no red glow , then the bimetal ( the round 1 " piece , with a blue and a pink wire going to it ) clipped on the top right of the coils , is bad ( since you already replaced the heater ) .
If you get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This is the 1 " white piece , with 2 white wires going to it , on the top left of the coils , which is just clipped on also . I would also recommend replaceing the # 5 thermistor , which is located at the bottom of the freezer , on the left , also with 2 white wires going to it . The number 4 thermistor , is the evaporator coil thermistor , and the number 5 thermistor , is the freezer temp thermistor .

Actualy, your correct. Just because it glows does not mean it will allow the valve to open. There is also a differance between flat and round. I would have to look it up but one has to have, I want to say 3.2 ohms and the other 2.8. I cant remember which one is which. When they are correct they do glow white. But just because they are glowing means nothing.

Is the freezer fan working ? If not , control board probably bad . Pull refrig out from wall and remove power . Remove the 8" X 10" panel and you will see the main control board . Remove the blue plug with 3 larger wires . The sequence is : wire1 , wire2 , space , wire3 . Using a short piece of wire with both ends stripped about 1/4 " , insert the wire into wire2 and wire3 . Plug refrig back in . Look in the freezer at the bottom rear for a red glow ( may take a minute or so ) . If you see a red glow , the main control board is bad ( the board you unplugged the wires from ) . If no red glow , then disconnect power to fridge , remove the jumper , and reinstall the blue plug and the panel .
Remove the food from the freezer section and remove the rear freezer panel inside the freezer . There you will see a round 1 " disk , clipped on top of the coils .Pt # WR60X10068 Defrost thermostat . At the bottom of the coils , you will see a heater . Pt # WR51X10042 Defrost heater . Replace both of these as the heater gets hot , and cuts off by the bimetal . he heater only has a screw on each side attaching it to the coils , and the bimetal just clips on . Easily repairable .

On the bottom is a link of what your oven is. I'm pretty sure it's the ingnightor #16. You should see a glow red hot when you turn on the oven or broil. Very common problem and pretty reasonable price to repair. Unless that glows and get's red hot, it will not turn on the gas. I think that should do it. Let me know if you need anything else. Scott





http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieveModelDetails.pd?modelNumber=SF325PEEQ0&productCategoryId=0124002&brandId=1198&modelName=Free-Standing,-Gas

My sister says there's a hold button that must be slid & this will release your mp3 player from being "frozen" Good luck!

Good Day
The glow plug relays are located on the right front shock tower. Remove the cover and you will see two relays If I remember I think they are round, but not sure.

Please let me know how you make out and if there is anything else that I might be able to help you with.

Cheers