SOURCE: not drying
If the dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat, any of the following components could be bad:
Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat
All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.
Now, if your dryer keeps failing, it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation was. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this could be the cause of your dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little prevent maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. You have to remove the entire front panel on some models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.
NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:
Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two RED leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.
Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set.
I hope this information is helpful to you. Post back with comments if you have any further questions.
PS This is not to assume you are abusing your appliance or are acting irresponsible. I just wanted to give you some useful tips, because some people just don't know.
SOURCE: Hi, just a quick question.
Disconnect the unit from its power supply before servicing!
Most Whirlpool dryers are disassembled by:
1. Raising the cover of the lint filter retainer housing on the top panel of the dryer, (if this where it is located), and removing 2 screws.
2. Using a flat blade screw driver, slide it between the top panel and the front panel approx. 3" in from the corners and pry upward gently. This will release the top from the front panel.
3. Remove the 5/16" screw from the inside corner where the front joins to the side panel, (Repeat procedure on the other side).
4.If your model has a separate lower panel, remove it by using the flat blade screwdriver and sliding it in frrom the side and gently twisting to release the retainer spring clip, ( Repeat procedure on other side). Remove door springs. ( make sure your door is latched tightly 1st).
5.Loosen or remove 2-5/16" screws from under the door at each corner.
6. You should now be able to remove the upper portion of the front panel.
SOURCE: cracked drum on the DLE3777W model
The drum is a part number 3045EL1002F which will set you back at least $135. Still well worth the repair, especially if you can install it yourself. You have to remove the top by removing 3 screws in back and sliding top back about 2 inches and lifting off. Then, remove front panel. Remove 4 screws holding the front bulkhead. Remove belt from drum. Remove drum. First time might take a hour, second one you do will take about 15 minutes.
Now, don't rate me down because you don't like having to repair your dryer. I didn't manufacture it. I'm just giving you a bunch of free advise.
SOURCE: dryer will not turn
hello check to see if the long pin inside the door has not snaped off if thats ok .then check capacitor next to the motor inside the dryer may have blown
regards
shaun
SOURCE: we have a Maytag model
Hi there. There are a few things that could be wrong with it, but the most common problem is a broken drive belt. You can remove the front panel and look to see if the belt is still around the drum and the motor and idler pulleys. If it has broken or come off, you will need to remove the front drum gable and put a new belt on the drum. Pay particular attention to the way it is looped around the idle pulley.
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