Where in Perth do I hire a tap and Di set ?

They will need to be replaced,
Remove the studs easily with a good hit,
Sml lump hammer works better than a claw hammer!

130(NM) 96 ft/lbs is the torque setting for a 2008 renault scenic so as not to ruin studs or brake rotors should be sufficient for allloys just need to check alloy lug nuts more often

Your torque spec is usually based off of lug diameter, if you have 19mm lug nuts then 75#ft should be sufficient.

jack up vehicle, remove tire. knock out old stud with a hammer and punch. put new stud in from back if need be. to draw it up tight.use a lug nut with something under it so when you tighten the nut it brings the stud into position. remove the nut you put on. and replace the tire. good-day! if the brakes and rotor are in the way. you will have to remove them to replace the wheel stud.

I assume front.
I just finished this job on my 01 Aurora. 1) Loosen Axle Nut - 33mm (with tire on ground so you don't torque the trannie) 2) Remove wheel 3) Remove caliper 4) Remove Tie-Rod end 5) Remove bolts holding strut to wheel assy. 6) Remove axle nut 7) Remove 3 bolts holding wheel bearing (I use a lot of PB Blaster on nuts and around the flange of the wheel bearing.) 8) Disconnect the wheel Speed sensor wire. 9) Remove wheel bearing - it may be stuck. I use PB Blaster and a big cement chisel to get it loose 10) At this point I always replace the Half-Shaft if the car has 100K miles or more. The only cost $50.00 and you've aready done all the work to get to it. 11) Just tap the axle spline to remove the wheel bearing - you don't need a puller or anything like that. 12) Put it all back together. Don't forget the plate that holds the wheel speed sensor clip - I always seems to forget this!
Good luck.
P.S. I was sure the wheel bearing noise was coming from my L.F. bearing, but it had no play in it. (Hold wheel at the 12 and 6 positions and see if you have any play.) So at the last minute I jacked of the R.F. and found just a bit of play. I went for the R.F. and that was the one that was bad.

About an hour a side...This is the whole job and pictures....

The hub and wheel bearing unit is serviced as a complete assembly. Replacement of the front drive hub and bearing assembly can be done without having to remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. However, if the hub/bearing assembly is frozen to the steering knuckle, removal of the steering knuckle is required.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
2. Remove the cotter pin from the end of the stub axle. Remove the nut lock and spring washer. With the brakes applied, loosen, but do NOT remove the axle nut and washer with the vehicle still on the ground or damage to the wheel bearing will result.
   
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the wheel.
   
4. Remove the front brake caliper assembly from the steering knuckle assembly and support from the strut assembly using a strong piece of wire.
   
1. Remove the front brake rotor from the hub/bearing assembly.
   
2. Remove the retaining nut and washer from the halfshaft stub axle.
   
3. Remove the ABS wheel speed sensor from the steering knuckle.
   
4. Remove the 4 hub and bearing assembly mounting bolts from behind the steering knuckle.
   
5. Remove the hub and bearing assembly from the steering knuckle.
   
5. To install:
   
   1. Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the steering knuckle and the hub and bearing assembly of any foreign material or nicks so the surfaces are clean and smooth.
      
   2. Install the new hub and bearing assembly and tighten the mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern to 45 ft. lbs. (65 Nm). Be sure the hub and bearing assembly is seated squarely against the front steering knuckle.
      
   3. Install the disc brake rotor.
      
   4. Install the brake caliper assembly onto the steering knuckle.
      
   5. Install the axle washer and nut. Tighten but do not torque.
      
   6. Install the ABS wheel speed sensor.
      
   7. Install the wheel and lug nuts. Torque the lug nuts, in sequence, to 95 ft. lbs. (129 Nm).
      
   8. Lower the vehicle. Do NOT roll the vehicle until the axle nut has been properly torqued or damage to the front wheel bearings will result.
      
   9. With the vehicle's brakes applied, torque the axle nut to 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm). Install the spring washer, nut lock and a new cotter pin. Wrap the cotter pin prongs tightly around the axle nut lock.
      
   10. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Check the wheel alignment.
       

The hub/bearing assembly is attached to the steering knuckle with four bolts



Removing a hub/bearing assembly




If the hub/bearing is "frozen" to the steering knuckle, separate the ball joint and lightly tap on the hub/bearing from behind




The hub/bearing assembly should free itself from the steering knuckle

About $60 a hub.

Yeah , it's a fairly simple repair, All the wheel studs must be replaced and lug nuts also.Closely examine the wheel or get competent tyre replacement company to double check for damage ! Remove the brake disc caliper and brake disc itself (usually 2 cross head screws) , tap off (gently) it may be stuck thru corrosion / rust etc , Broken studs can be knocked out(towards drive shaft ) of the hub assy with a suitable drift and hammer (splined into hub) . The studs are a servicable replacement part. Check all other wheel nuts as this is usually a result from poor fixing or wheel replacement recently .. Good luck

For the most part it is very similar to doing a brake job, you will need to gain access to disc area. once you have removed the caliper you will need to remove the dust cap, this will allow you to remove the nut that secures the disc to the spindle. after you access to the front bearing, remove and set aside, put washer and nut back on, slide rotor out tapping it to remove rear bearing, remove nut/washer and hand pack with wheel bearing grease. re assemble, check and bleed brakes if necessary, Good Luck!

There might be a start washer on one of the wheel studs that hold the rotor in place, If not. A good hit from a hammer will break the rotor free from the wheel hub, chances are there being held on by corrosion. Good luck and hope this helps. Keep me posted, be glad to help.

You can get a complete hub with bearing and its can just be bolted on, without having to have bearing pressed in and out. Good luck and thanks for using FIX YA