Question about Mitsubishi WD-73733 73" HDTV

1 Answer

TV will not power on, strange arcing and poping noise from rear

The lamp looks perfectly fine on a WD-73733 DLP set. However there is a strange "arcing" coming from a component that the bulbs connects to. It looks like a capacitor is trying to stay lit, I believe this "cap" is the reason I used to see a soft blueish white glow coming from the back of the set when it was is use. However this "cap" doesnt stay lit. I am assuming this could be the ballast board/power supply for the lamp. Please help! limited money and don't wanna get jerked around by TV repair people. Model is Mitsubishi WD-73733 Manufactured in July of 2007 with SN# of 101951. Please help!

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  • blmckenna Jul 04, 2009

    I forgot to add; The set does power ON, but no picture and have since canceled my cable service, unable to tell if there is audio. I have performed the reset step on the front control panel. You can hear the TV powering up and can feel air flow from the back. The part that is "arcing" is visible from the rear of the set through a ventilation port. the "arcing" part is located on an OSRAM Circuit board. the little "capacitor" is silver and white and color and the center of it lights up or "arcs" however the "arc" is contained within the "cap" it doesnt jump out to anything else and there are no "burn" marks anywhere on this circuit board. I have noticed the Lamp housing plugs directly into this board assembly. As I said before there used to be a constant glow from the rear of the TV, I believe this "cap" was the reason but it will no longer stay lit. Is there a part number to identify this? I am rather tech savvy and know I could replace the board/board carrier if I could get my hands on it.

  • blmckenna Jul 05, 2009

    I guess my next question would be, If the Lamp is indeed bad would the ballast board be acting the way it is, with the "arcing" popping? I have seen what alot of blown Lamps look like and mine doesnt seem to be, but has not been replaced. But like I asked, would the ballast board be doing this?

  • blmckenna Jul 05, 2009

    I guess my next question would be, If the Lamp is indeed bad would the ballast board be acting the way it is, with the "arcing" popping? I have seen what alot of blown Lamps look like and mine doesnt seem to be, but has not been replaced. But like I asked, would the ballast board be doing this?

  • Larry Murkerson
    Larry Murkerson Jul 20, 2014

    Mine is doing the EXACT SAME thing. Did you find out what was causing your issue?

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  • Master
  • 668 Answers

Even though the Lamp looks good it does not mean that it is. The only way to know is to relace it. If you have already replaced it with a Mitsubishi Lamp Assy. then the Ballast board would probably be the cause.
Hope this helps,
Skyassoc

Posted on Jul 04, 2009

  • Steve Yocum Jul 05, 2009

    Yes, the Ballast Board would cause this and the Lamp not igniting will also cause the Ballast board to act like it is..

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2 Answers

How to change lamp in mitsubishi wd 73733


Your TV is so-called V-36 chassis.
First shut off TV and unplug it from the wall.
On the back of the TV on the right hand side if look from behind you can locate plastic lamp cover that is removable. Behind the cover you will see lamp cartridge that held in place by screws that you have to loose using screwdriver. Remove lamp assembly and install the new one. Make sure that cartridge is all way in, you have to feel connection plug to be slide-in all the way. Tighten up screws but not too hard.
Reinstall lamp cover. Plug TV into the wall and wait for green LED light to stop blinking. Turn TV set on. It should display message "Power loss, did you replace the lamp?" You hit "enter" on your original Mitsubishi (not the cable box or Satellite box) remote control and this is it.
Regards.
Russ.

Apr 07, 2010 | Mitsubishi WD-73733 73" HDTV

1 Answer

TV will not power on.


I guess your TV is DLP.
Please notice the follow symthoms:
When you on TV, did you hear some strange noise from the back of the TV. If yes, the color wheel needs replacing.
If no, check the lamp. Take a look to bottom of lamp, you will see white pot or sometime a pop up there due to lamp cycle is going to end. When changing lamp, check the ballast and power sup, too. If you see caps are poping up. Pull out those board and replace the poped caps.

Aug 13, 2009 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

Convergence issue where can i get the part? can I replace my self?


the model number you have supplied is for a (wd-73733) is for a 2007 DLP type tv---this model has no convergence circuits--it uses an optical light engine---what is wrong with this set? my direct email is:


etower.766@netzero.net

Aug 11, 2009 | Mitsubishi WD-73733 73" HDTV

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No summary necessary...nailed my problem to the letter.


The ballast board is stand alone. There is a bad capacitor in the power supply. It may be 820uf, but look for any that have the tops bulged or leaking juice.

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Did your replace lamp come on the screen or did you lose picture? Just because the LED indicator suggest replace lamp it doesn't mean it needs it. If your pix was dull or loss of brightness then replace it, if not then just reset your lamp timer, check your owners manual for instructions.

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STANDBY LIGHT TURN ON


when turning on the set will go three startup cycles about 2-3 min. then all three leds will blink/ possible causes /lamp/ballast/dmd board check or purchase the dmd board last (costs) also listen for arcing from the ballest at startup and fan noise if you can and color wheel noise also.if you hear the ballast arcing and trying to fire the lamp look at the lamp.

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Mitsubishi WD-62525 DLP has no picture


Here's something that might also be useful. After you turn on the set, and get the regular red blinky lights, hold down the Device and Menu buttons together for about 5 seconds.
The Power light will start to flash in a two digit sequence.

For example, 3 flashes, then 7 flashes = 37.


Here are the error codes, and the corresponding problem:

12 = No error detected, check power supply.
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33 = Air filter cover is open.
34 = Lamp abnormality
36 = Light Engine (DMD or Lamp Fan stopped)
37 = Exhaust or Lamp Ballast Fan stopped
38 = Lamp Temperature High
39 = DMD Temperature High
41 = Short is detected
44 = DVI cable between FMT and Engine disconnected

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