Crusher control rod and bracket

Follow these steps:

1. Open the car hood. If you have a factory stereo system installed you need to now the security code t reactivate the sound. Remove the negative cable from the battery to prevent the air bags from popping.
2. Use a pair of wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Use a car jack to raise the side of the car you will work on. Take off the wheel by loosening the lug nuts.
3. On the wheels wells in the engine chamber use a socket and ratchet and remove the grommets and upper strut nuts. Also disconnect the brake hose bracket and ABS sensor wire from under the car.
4. Again take the socket and ratchet to loosen the pinch bolt and nut located on the upper control arm, which you will remove from the wheel knuckle. When the pinch bolt goes through you must not pry open the slotted area. Use a socket and ratchet and remove the strut assembly.
5. Place a spring compressor on the coil spring and tighten it enough to relieve the pressure from the spring cap. Using a socket and ratchet remove the center nut from the strut rod. Remove the spring cap, coil spring and spring seats from the strut. Place the coil spring on the new strut along with the new spring seats and spring cap.
6. Place the center nut on the strut rod and tighten it. Take off the spring compressor form the coil spring. Install the strut on the Audi and mount the upper control arm with the wheel knuckle.
7. Connect the ABS sensor wire to the strut. Attach the brake hose bracket to the strut and tighten the nut. Install the three upper strut nuts in the engine compartment and tighten them. Cover the nuts with grommets. Place the wheel on the Audi and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.

Strut and Spring Assembly Removal

1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
   

1. Remove the front wheel and tire assembly.
   

1. CAUTION: To avoid damage to the 6mm drive hole in the front stabilizer bar link ball stud, do not use an Allen wrench to break loose or tighten to final torque the front stabilizer bar link-to-front shock absorber nut.
   Remove the stabilizer bar link retaining nut and disconnect the link from the strut.
   

1. CAUTION: Do not allow the halfshaft to move outboard. Over extension of the CV joint may result in the separation of internal parts, causing failure of the joint.
   Remove the strut assembly-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. If required, slightly spread the steering knuckle to ease the removal of the strut. Pry down on the lower control arm and roll the strut base out of the knuckle. Do not pry on the halfshaft, as damage may result. Wire the steering knuckle up to prevent the halfshaft from moving outboard.
   

1. Partially lower the vehicle.
   

1. Support the strut assembly and remove the top three mount-to-strut tower nuts. Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle.
   

1. CAUTION: The strut assembly is under spring tension. Attempting to disassemble the strut without properly compressing the spring can result in injury.
   Using a suitable spring compressing tool, slightly compress the strut spring to relieve initial tension. Loosen the upper rod nut. Continue to compress the spring until the tension is relieved. Remove the upper rod nut.
   

1. Remove all upper mounting parts, coil spring, and coil spring isolators from the strut and save them for reassembly. Carefully note the position of each part during removal to ensure proper reassembly. Inspect each part for wear and damage as it is removed.
   

Installation

1. CAUTION: The bearing and seal assembly is press-fit onto the upper mount. The mount washers must be installed in the correct orientation.
   NOTE: Be sure to check the spring insulator for damage before assembly. If the outer metal splash shield is bent or damaged, it must be carefully bent back, so it does not touch the locator on the bearing and seal assembly.
   
   NOTE: New gas struts are shipped with the rod in a locked down position. To extend the new strut, remove the external tie down and/or rotate the upper end of the rod, counterclockwise.
   
   Install the coil spring insulator, coil spring, and upper mounting parts to the new strut assembly. Make sure the spring is correctly seated in both spring seats.
   

Item Part Number Description 1 ? Dust Boot (Part of 18045) 2 N803826-S100 Front Shock Absorber Mounting Bracket Nut
(3 Req'd) 3 N803952-S100 Washer 4 N808625-S100 Front Shock Absorber Nut 5 18183 Front Shock Absorber Mounting Bracket 6 3B455 Front Suspension Bearing and Seal 7 5310 Front Coil Spring 8 5414 Front Spring Insulator 9 18045 Front Shock Absorber A ? Tighten to 35-40 Nm
(25-30 Lb-Ft) B ? Tighten to 55-63 Nm
(40-46 Lb-Ft)

1. CAUTION: Do not over tighten the lock nut; damage to the lock nut or piston rod could result.
   Install new rod lock nut and tighten it to 55-63 Nm (40-46 lb-ft).
   

1. Remove the spring compressing tool.
   

1. Position the strut assembly into the vehicle. Install the three mount-to-strut tower nuts. Tighten the nuts to 35-40 Nm (25-30 lb-ft).
   

1. Partially raise the hoist.
   

1. Position the strut assembly to the steering knuckle. Install the pinch bolt and tighten it to 115-132 Nm (85-97 lb-ft).
   

1. Position the stabilizer link to the strut assembly and install the retaining nut. Tighten the nut to 90-100 Nm (66-74 lb-ft).
   

1. Install the front wheel and tire assembly.
   

1. Lower the vehicle.
   

hope this helps

Hello,

My name is Dane and I'll try to help you with your problem. I have given you the basic instructions here for mounting most john deere snow blades.

Here is a link to the parts diagram for the blade too.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Sabre-john-deere-Parts/Riding-mower-tractor-Parts/Model-15538G/1828/1509200/10060752/00034

You need to remove the mower deck from the machine, and you may have to remove the front bumper as well.

First, install the mounting brackets on the tractor. Align the holes in each mounting bracket with the holes in the tractor frame. Install using the kit that comes with the mounting bracket. Don't tighten this yet.

Next you should install the pivot support. Insert the pins on the right and left hitch plates into the notches on the mounting brackets. Install the pins and tighten the screws on those mounting brackets now.

Next you should Install the blade. Align the holes in the pivot support with the second holes from the end of the push channel assembly. Insert the channel pin and washer and secure with the spring locking pin.

Install the lift handle. Slide the lift handle rod into the end hole in the push channel assembly. Insert the lift link pin in the pivot support bracket into the lift handle rod. Add the washers and locking pin.

Now, Iistall the blade pivot rod. Either end of the blade pivot rod goes through the blade pivot shaft. The other end goes through the lift handle tube. Secure both ends with locking pins.

Lubricate the lift handle rods and pivot points.

Install the rear tire chains and wheel weights.

I hope I've helped. If you found this information useful, please leave feedback as deserved. Thanks! Dane

Hopefully you will glean all you need to know from this but if you want or need more information or more FXD specific information PLEASE H

Hopefully the information below will be okay BUT if you need any more or any more specific information please post a comment and describe what you want/need.

REPLACING FORK OIL Replace front fork oil at every 20,000 mile (32,000 km) service interval and/or prior to storage.

ALL BUT FXDX & FXDXT models

Raise and support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, on FXDL models, remove the center plug from each fork cap, on all other models, remove the fork tube caps, remove the drain screws from the bottom of each fork and drain the fork oil, replace the drain screws and washers and tighten the screws

to 13-17 in-lbs (1.5-2.0 Nm) THEN see Table 1-6. and fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL (Part No. HD-99884-80) as set out in the Table. THEN if apart assemble the forks as follows:

a. FXD, FXDXT, FXDWG models: install both fork tube caps and tighten them to 11-22 ft-lbs (14.9-29.8 Nm).

b. FXDL models: install center plugs and tighten until secure.

Fork oil amounts can be measured two ways: use the oz./cc measurement if fork is left in frame; use the in./mm measurement if the fork is disassembled in which case the oil level is measured from the top of the fork tube with the spring removed and the fork fully compressed.

Table 1-6. Type E Fork Oil Amounts for 2001 DYNA

MODEL OZ CC IN. MM

FXDXT 11.5 341 6.10 154.9

FXDWG 12.0 356 7.28 182.9

FXD 10.6 314 6.69 169.9

PART NO. SPECIALTY TOOL

HD-41177 Fork tube holder

HD-41549A Fork spring compression tool

HD-41551 Spring plate tool

HD-36583 Fork seal installer

HD-59000A Pro-level oil gauge

FRONT FORKS: FXDX & FXDXT 2.20

REMOVAL

Raise and support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, remove both front brake calipers and the front wheel, remove the front fender, remove the front fairing, remove the headlamp bracket and attach the headlamp to the frame using a rubber bungee strap, loosen the upper and lower triple clamp pinch bolts and pull the fork sides from the brackets.

DISASSEMBLY

Remove the stopper ring, remove the spring preload adjuster but DO NOT unthread the rebound adjuster from the damper rod because incorrect assembly could result in reduced adjustment range. THEN unthread the fork cap from the fork tube and allow the fork leg to drop, exposing the spring, THEN get a FORK SPRING COMPRESSION TOOL (Part No. HD-41549A) on the spring collar, turn the screws in to engage the holes in collar, compress the spring until the SPRING PLATE TOOL (Part No. HD-

41551) can be positioned between the spacer and the spring collar, THEN hold the fork bolt and compression adjuster, remove the fork bolt from the compression adjuster, remove the spring adjuster plate from the fork bolt, remove spacer, spring collar and spring, pour out the fork oil by pumping the fork leg and rod 8-10 times or until rod the moves freely. THEN position fork slider in vise using a FORK TUBE HOLDER such as (Part No. HD-41177) to avoid damage. THEN remove the socket head bolt, remove the damper from the fork tube, remove the cover from the slider, remove seal and stopper ring, pull the fork tube out of the slider, remove the oil seal, spacer and guide bushing from the fork tube.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION

Measure the fork spring free length and replace the spring if it is shorter than 17.00 in. (431.8 mm), check the fork tube and the slider for score marks, scratches or abnormal wear, check the slide and guide bushings for excessive wear or scratches, set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure runout which should not exceed 0.008 in. (0.2 mm).

ASSEMBLY

Coat the oil seal with TYPE E FORK OIL, before installing the slide bushing and guide bushing, lubricate them with fork oil, THEN install the guide bushing and the spacer seal noting that the guide bushing opening must be oriented to the side and NOT to the front or rear, THEN slip the slider into the fork tube, place the slide bushing over the fork tube until it rests on the slider, drive the guide bushing with the spacer seal into the slider, lubricate a new oil seal with TYPE E FORK Oil, drive the oil seal into the slider using FORK SEAL INSTALLER (Part No. HD-36583). install the stopper ring and dust seal, (if the rebound adjuster was removed from the damper rod bottom the lock nut on the threaded portion of damper rod, holding a thumb on the detent spring and ball, back out (turn counterclockwise) the rebound adjuster to the last "click." and then turn down (clockwise) 17 "clicks", thread the rebound adjuster onto the damper rod until the adjuster stops at maximum thread engagement (but do not force it), thread the locknut onto the damper rod up until it contacts the base of the rebound adjuster and tighten it in place), THEN holding the slider in a vise while being careful not to damage it. install the damper tube into the fork tube and tighten the socket screw and washer to 22-29 ft-lbs (29.8-39.3 Nm). THEN pour half the TYPE E FORK OIL into the fork tube, slowly pump the damper rod 10 or more times, position the damper rod in the fully bottomed position and pour the remaining amount of TYPE E FORK OIL into the fork tube. THEN using a PRO-LEVEL OIL GAUGE (Part No. HD-59000A) or similar adjust the oil level to 5.04 in. (128 mm). THEN carefully clean and install the spring, the spring collar, and the spacers with the sharp edge created when they were stamped out when manufactured, facing the collar. THEN using a FORK SPRING COMPRESSION TOOL such as (Part No. HD-41549A) push spring collar down and place a SPRING PLATE such as (Part No. HD-41551) between the spacer and the spring collar, install the fork cap and tighten it against the rebound adjuster to 22-29 ft-lbs (29.8-39.3 Nm). THEN tighten the fork cap onto the fork tube to 11-22 ft-lbs (14.9-29.8 Nm), install the spring adjuster plate, replace the O-rings on the spring preload adjuster and lubricate them with fork oil. THEN install the spring preload adjuster and the stopper ring and carefully drive the slider cover into the slider.

INSTALLATION

Insert both fork side assemblies up through the fork stem and bracket and upper bracket and tighten the fork stem bracket pinch bolt(s) to 30-35 ft-lbs (40.7-47.5 Nm). Then re-install the headlamp bracket, install the front fender, install the front wheel and the brake caliper When the motorcycle is again ready for the road adjust the headlamp and road test the motorcycle.

PLEASE DON'T FORGET TO RATE!!!

Removal & Installation

Remove or disconnect the following:

• Brake hose bracket screw from the control arm
  
• Shock absorber lower bolt while using a utility stand to support the rear axle
  
• Tie rod from the rear axle
  
• Spring and insulators after lowering the rear axle
  

Exploded view of the coil spring assembly


To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   
   • Insulators and springs on the rear axle with the paint stripe is facing rearward
     
   • Rear axle tie rod after raising the rear axle into its proper position. Torque the nut to 92 ft. lbs. (125 Nm).
     
   • Shock absorbers to the rear axle. Torque the upper and lower nuts to 63 ft. lbs. (85 Nm).
     
   • Brake hose bracket to the control arm. Torque the bolt to 33 ft. lbs. (44 Nm).
     
2. Remove the axle supports.
   

Installation

1. CAUTION: The bearing and seal assembly is press-fit onto the upper mount. The mount washers must be installed in the correct orientation.
   NOTE: Be sure to check the spring insulator for damage before assembly. If the outer metal splash shield is bent or damaged, it must be carefully bent back, so it does not touch the locator on the bearing and seal assembly.
   
   NOTE: New gas struts are shipped with the rod in a locked down position. To extend the new strut, remove the external tie down and/or rotate the upper end of the rod, counterclockwise.
   
   Install the coil spring insulator, coil spring, and upper mounting parts to the new strut assembly. Make sure the spring is correctly seated in both spring seats.
   

Item Part Number Description 1 — Dust Boot (Part of 18045) 2 N803826-S100 Front Shock Absorber Mounting Bracket Nut
(3 Req'd) 3 N803952-S100 Washer 4 N808625-S100 Front Shock Absorber Nut 5 18183 Front Shock Absorber Mounting Bracket 6 3B455 Front Suspension Bearing and Seal 7 5310 Front Coil Spring 8 5414 Front Spring Insulator 9 18045 Front Shock Absorber A — Tighten to 35-40 Nm
(25-30 Lb-Ft) B — Tighten to 55-63 Nm
(40-46 Lb-Ft)

1. CAUTION: Do not over tighten the lock nut; damage to the lock nut or piston rod could result.
   Install new rod lock nut and tighten it to 55-63 Nm (40-46 lb-ft).
   

1. Remove the spring compressing tool.
   

1. Position the strut assembly into the vehicle. Install the three mount-to-strut tower nuts. Tighten the nuts to 35-40 Nm (25-30 lb-ft).
   

1. Partially raise the hoist.
   

1. Position the strut assembly to the steering knuckle. Install the pinch bolt and tighten it to 115-132 Nm (85-97 lb-ft).
   

1. Position the stabilizer link to the strut assembly and install the retaining nut. Tighten the nut to 90-100 Nm (66-74 lb-ft).
   

1. Install the front wheel and tire assembly.
   

1. Lower the vehicle.
   

Hi Sleepy.
When you say "spring" are you talking about the small spring attached between the left-front shock rod and the small red tab on the tub rim, or are you talking about one of the tub support rods/shock absorbers? If it's the latter, it has probably broken and has to be replaced. What I usually see happen is that the rod pulls right out of the angular bracket that supports the rod. if the rod came undone it is very easy to re-install it, you hook the bottom round "bearing" onto the tub, lift the rod up and set the angled bracket back into the corner of the cabinet. if this angled bracket is still attached to the corner and you see a rod and spring, then you broke the shock rod. If this is the case, they are sold in sets of 4 and you can get them here:
http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/ecart/item.php?item_id=218&category_id=54

You can find parts HERE. I do not think you need new "Ratchet Lock Assm." unles yu lost it (I have never seen one broken). Make sure you have the Spring and lubricate it well (do not use liquid lubricants as they will leak on the carpet).

God Luck

Make sure that your ice tray is properly instaled. There is a rod that must go into a hole. When you select ice cubes rather than crushed ice a solenoid raises which moves that rod. It then opens a flap so the cubes can bypass the crusher. Either your rod is not in the hole correctly or the solenoid has gone bad. The rod that I am speaking of runs along the underside of the ice tray. It has a spring on the rear end that holds the bypass flpa closed.

Whenever the ice tray is removed, you need to reposition the cube/crush selector rod that is attached to the bottom of the ice tray. This rod swivels: down position for crushed, up position for cube. At the back of the freezer, there is an opening to which this rod inserts. It houses the solenoid for cube/crushed operation. For cube position, the horizontal plastic piece is slightly above the center of the opening. Slide out the tray until the rod is past the solenoid. Pry the solenoid down as far as it can go. It is spring loaded and will not break. (If it doesn't feel like it is spring loaded, stop here and call a repair tech.) Now swivel the rod on the tray up and slide back in making sure the end of the rod is ABOVE the solenoid. DONE!!! Now you have cube ice. Good Luck.