If you use a digital multimeter across battery posts, everything off, the generic for a full charge is 12.6 volts, and yes the .6 is a big deal. Generally it says if voltage is 12.4 or below, you need to charge the battery. Just my opinion.
Leave the meter leads touching the battery posts, have helper turn key to crank position, Does the reading drop, what is the reading? If it does drop very much, then check for an open circuit to starter. If it drops all the way to zero, your going to have to check battery and battery connections.
I did look at your starter wiring diagram, it appears your security system is a starter motor disable. If the security system is the issue then you may need a scanner to communicate with your security system.
one of the door/van loading door switches has failed it thinks a door is open so the the interior light stays on and the door open warning will ding the interior light should have a switch to disable it or take out the bulb but you cant stop the dinging until you find the faulty latch switch and fix it
The warning chime is on because the GEM - generic electronic module think's the door is open . Your best bet ,have a qualified repair shop check it out . Unless you have a scanner that will talk with the GEM & the engine computer & ABS computer , checking DTC'S - dfiagnostic trouble codes . If you don't know about this , take it to a repair shop.
Your engine has IMRC (intake manifold runner controls) that are supposed to stay closed under 3000 rpms. Over time they get carboned up and can hang open causing poor performance. Try to manually close the valve, if it immediately opens again the diaphragm might be bad. It would require replacing that IMRC.
Torque Converter Clutch System Performance 1744
I would clear the codes and read off any new codes in order to pin point any error.
Could be the torque convertor getting too hot and sensors are trying to use a higher gear ratio to reduce the heat.
There is only thing will cause the check engine light to flash when you are driving and that is your catalyst converter is over heating and that is very dangerous if you continue to drive the van and the check engine light is flashing there is a very real possibility your van can catch on fire. What causes the catalyst converter to get hot is that raw fuel is being dumped into the exhaust system. That system can get so hot that it will glow cherry red it’s easier to see it at night. Please make sure and are expecting your problem correctly and if you are take it to a shop because you have more than one problem and the van is not safe to drive
There's a bleed screw located at the bottom of the radiator. Open screw let fluid run out of radiator. Fill radiator with water run vehicle. Repeat above steps until fluid is clear. Use a coolant system flush. Refill system with appropriate amount of coolant and water.
Check the wiring inside the rubber boot from the body to the door . Opening an closing the door a million times can cause these wires to break . Testing the electrical circuit using a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter before replacing parts is the proper way to diagnose automotive electrical circuit's . You can find free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size . Under system click body & accessories ,then under subsystem click on power locks or windows ,which ever you want to diagnose first .
Suggest you watch this video as well Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know
incorrect pad material
brake manufacturers make 3 different pads for different applications and you need the pads used for taxi operations
there are anti noise pads fitted behind the pads ( plastic inserts and springs in use also to stop the noise
make sure that the callipers are free to slide on the mounting pins
other items like slotted and drilled rotors may be a help
talk with accredited specialist brake shops to make sure that during the replacement process you didn't miss a vital item that is now causing the noise