Question about Denon AVR 2808Ci Receiver
Fuses only fail from excessive current and not wrong voltage
take it in for a proper diagnosis but with twice the required voltage , the results will be --junk it and next time used the correct adaptor for the voltage
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I just picked up a non working AVR 900, there are a total of 4 fuses inside the unit: 2 on the protect board, 6.3A and 8A, and 2 in the middle near the front. I was told by Denon the following might reset the microprocessor. 1) unplug unit 2) press and hold tuner and video select on front panel 3) plug in while holding buttons Unit display should flash until you let go of buttons. Unit stays on you should be ok/ goes back to red- service They also said: There are 3 types of protection that will commonly occur with our receivers. This is designed to protect the unit from permanent damage. 1) Thermal Protect = When the unit overheats this will occur, usually if there is not enough air space above and around the unit. There cannot be anything directly on top of the unit and there must be at least 4 inches of airspace above the unit. 2) Overload Protect = Most commonly occurs when a strand or more of copper speaker wire is not securely connected to the speaker terminal and is touching the chassis of the receiver. If the volume is turned higher than 85% this may also occur. If you need to turn the volume higher than this point to get the level you want, you need a more powerful amp. 3) DC Protect = When an amplifier fails this will occur. This will protect dc current from damaging the speakers. When this happens the unit will need to be serviced. I had a bad 6.3A fuse ? I replaced it and tried to reset. The microprocessor would not reset. I had the exact same results you had. The chip on the back side of the front IC board was smoking. Before I attempted the reset I asked Denon if it was worth sending in for repair. The answer was "NO" BC
Posted on Apr 24, 2007
SOURCE: Denon AVR-1601
This is a very common problem with denon receivers of the 2001-2-3 vintage. On almost every one, there are 4 little "surge" resistors in the power supply. These werent quite robust enough from the factory and one day would just burn open for no reason. Well, actually there is a reason, the "surge" that happens every time you power the unit up eventually weakens the resistors and then they pop. You need to take this to a denon service shop as I GUARANTEE they have seen this before. They need to check resistors in the picture, locarde above the **** rectangular connector. Resistors numbers R141, 142, 148, 149: These resistors when measured, should be less than 10 ohms each. If they are more, then they are blown. If they are blown, then have the shop check the channels for blown output transistors. If the outputs are OK, then these resistors should be replaced with 1 ohm 1/2 watt metal -film flameproof resistors. You might need to be prepared for a large bill, because the entire unit must come apart to replace the resistors, however, just checking them takes only about 10 minutes... Good luck and don't try this at home. Rob
Posted on Apr 08, 2008
SOURCE: DENON AVR 2802 (NO SOUND)
If "Digital" sign blink on front panel, it means DSP do no start properly. If DSP do not start, main UC mute audio. Change IC,
817 ) at DSP board (Denon P/N: 262 3010
Posted on Sep 11, 2008
Normally when this happens it is because the impedence load is too small. This unit requires 8 Ohm speakers. If you connect 4 Ohm speakers, it will work, but work harder and generate excessive heat. If the heat is too much, the unit will enter protect mode and shut down. Once it cools off, it will work again. In your case, if the speakers are the correct impedence, check for crossed wires. If that is the problem, running the unit at higher volume levels should cause it to shutdown sooner.
Keep us posted,
Posted on Mar 10, 2009
SOURCE: Denon AVR-1602 Overheated!
I have exactly the same problem. I have checked and replaced these resistors but they didn't fix the problem nor were the old ones open circuited anyway, but I have kept with the new ones for now. I have also checked some of the transistors on the larger heat sink and the power regulator transistors on the two small heat sinks, no problem there either.
I guess the next step is the check the power supply and power relay after that I stumped.
Anyone else got anymore ideas?
Posted on Sep 12, 2012
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