Motor running constantly and gurgling on proline freezer model PUF 86W/86S

Is it a self defrost model or manual defrost model? If too thick of ice built up, it will not be cold..

Sounds like the defrost cycle is too short! What is the make and model number?

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
There are 12 midelos that fall under the model number you passed. I will cite EV171NYMQ05 as a reference model number via this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5140769

The freezer fan should be on anytime the compressor is on. If there is an ice block built up on the evaporator coils it can lock the fan blade in place via the ice build up. Additionally... if the fan motor bearings are dry or coated with sludge this too can prevent the fan motor from operating. The fan motor is item 3 this link: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5140769&diagram_id=28174432#d28174432

Detail views:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Appliance-Parts/whirlpool-motor-evap-item-number-ap4539455.aspx

To check the can motor all that is required is a simple continuity check across the 2 connector wires. You should read under 480 ohms.

If you discover that the fan blades are encased in ice... do a manual defrost: (be ready to tend to a water mess)
1. By first unplugging the unit and then removing the freezer contents.
2. Direct an external fan into the freezer compartment for just over 2 hours.
3. Make sure the compartement drain funnel is clear of obstructions. Item 11 this link: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5140769&diagram_id=28158051#d28158051

After the 2 hour manual defrost period plug in the unit and test to see if the fan motor is running.
If it is running you may have an automatic defrost problem causing the ice build up. On a freezer the ice build up will start again if there is an automatic defrost problem in 3 - 5 days. Until the automatic defrost problem is corrected you will end up doing the manual defrost routine described above everytime you have improper cooling problems.

Components that can cause the automatic defrosting problems are
1. The defrost timer item 7 this link: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5140769&diagram_id=28257341#d28257341 Because it is not cycling or stuck in one position.
2. The defrost bi-metal thermostat item 9 above link (stuck closed)
3. The defrost heating element item 5 above link. (open)
And of course internal wiring....

Check the fan motor for continuity... if you attempt to lubricate it which is very difficult on this fan motor make sure you use paraffin based "Turbine oil" and not a regular household or automotive oil. Using any other oil will cause the fan to stop working in as little as 30 days.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Refrigerator gets cold air from freezer compartment. Either the air flow is blocked by food items or ice, or the recirculating fan is not working.

The most common failure is that the freezer coils get all iced up becuase the defroster timer, defroster thermostat, or heater has stopped working.

When it's running, you should feel cold air blowing out of the vents that are in the fridge, otherwise, the 'air tower' (air vent) is blocked with ice.

If you manually defrost the whole thing, and it runs fine for a day or so, then it's not defrosting properly. If you manually turn the defroster timer, and you don't hear the scorching/hissing/gurgling of the defroster working, then that would confirm a fault in the defroster circuits.

Based on the following thread, it's probably a bad defrost thermostat.

http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/sears-kenmore/13766-kenmore-elite-22-bottom-freezer-refrigerator-fridge-not-cooling.html

Defroster circuit/timer has failed.

The water line to the icemaker has probably frozen,so no ice. The cooling coils are in the freezer, and the cold air moves to the fridge via vents and circulation fan.

When it all ices up, no air gets to fridge, fridge gets warm.

Many models have a mechanical defroster timer located under the lower front kick panel. Manually rotate the timer until you hear the compressor stop.

Defroster heater then should come on and you hear scorch/hiss/gurgle of defrost sounds. If the timer is working, the fridge should come back on after about a half hour or so.

Sometimes timer fails, sometimes heater element fails. There is also a defrost thermostat that's part of the heater assembly.

http://www.appliance411.com/faq/howdefrostworks.shtml

replace the circulating fan motor

Fridgedaire has a lot of defrost termination switches that are separating and not allowing the defrost cycle to heat up. The defrost termination switch is located behind the wall that is icing up, take out the screws that hold the back wall in place and use a hiar dryer or hot water to remove ice do not use an ice pick or sharp object of any kind. the def terminatin sw is small and round about 3/4 of and inch thick and has two wires coming off of it one goes to the defrost heater the other usually back into the wiring harness. check it to make sure it is not coming apart. Ohm it and the heater out it should have continuity when below 20 degress. the heater should have continuity all the time,.

Well, short term, you'll have to unoad it and defrost manually.

Sounds like the auto-defrosting system has a problem. A likely cause is the defrost timer.

Defrost it and see if you have lost the insulation aroundthe pipe. If you have you can use expanding spray fome insulation on it. like you use on your house.

The timer that controls the defrost cycle/function, may have failed and there may be no defrosting occurring. If icing of the coils due to the missing defrost cycle, there may not be enugh circulation left to keep the thermostat happy.

Try defrosting it manually (I know, it's a pain - aren't we spoiled?) and see if the compressor then cycles for a few days before it starts running continuously again.

And for Dr. Fred, the above suggestion about trying manually defrosting applies to your problem too.
The exposure to overnight moisture (ice accumulation) may have interfered with the automatic cycle.