Defrost Heater Resistance Range

If you are supplying direct current to the heater coil and it is not heating up, then it is likely that the heater coil is faulty and needs to be replaced. The fact that the resistance of the heater coil is 348 ohms suggests that it may be within the expected range for the heater, but this alone does not guarantee that the heater is functioning properly.
Before replacing the heater coil, however, it is important to ensure that there are no other issues with the defrost system. For example, a faulty defrost thermostat or defrost timer can also cause defrost problems in a refrigerator.
It is recommended that you consult with a qualified technician or the manufacturer of your LG refrigerator for assistance in diagnosing and repairing the defrost problem. They will be able to provide more specific guidance on what steps to take next to resolve the issue.

It is quite common for a refrigerator to begin the first signs of a defrost problems once he fresh Food section begins to warm. Auto Dampers are an additional component to check while searching for the true reason for Fresh Food compartment warming. First look inside the freezer compartment and and see if there is a layer of frost building on the rear wall. If yes you will need to manually defrost unless you have anothr place to store the freezer goods. Unplug refrigerator and then remove the rear panel of freezer to get a good look at the snow covering your evaporator coils. Defrost with a hair drier. Now we need to look for the cause Auto Damper, Click here for the photo location of these parts=> MSD2756GEW Controls Section the adaptive defrost control is most likely the problem and is listed in the photo as location 13 and the auto damper

61005971 Damper Control Assembly

61005988 Adaptive Defrost Assembly

The Auto Damper model refrigerator has two controls and both have capillary sensing.

The Auto Damper controls the fresh food temperature and the Freezer Temperature
Control guides the freezer temperature. The fresh food compartment temperature is maintained by a damper assembly located at the back of the temperature control housing. Changes in air temperature cause the damper door to open and close. A control rod and gear connect the fresh
food control knob to the damper control.

Turning the fresh food control knob to the coldest position increases the flow of freezer air into the fresh food section. The freezer compartment temperature control warms at a faster rate and cools at a slower rate, increasing the compressor run time necessary to maintain a satisfied freezer temperature control.

Click Here=> Here is how to test a Maytag MSD2756GEW Auto Damper

There is always other possiilities but I see two other things that may cause this and that is the defrost heater with defrost Thermostat=> 61006199 Defrost Heater Assembly

I know this was long and possibly confusing but please ask if you should have questions or one on one assistance, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Can't remove pan . the water evaporates. If the unit frosted up then it will get too much water at one time and will overflow. If back wall of freezer had frost on it then you need a new defrost heater, thermostat or timer.

Fault in the auto defrost section. shut off the fridge and defrost , check onthe thermostat , faulty lines wire breaks due to frost. if not trace the wires to the auto defrost timer. check the heater continuity/resistance. When the fridge is started back check the timer and see if the auto defrost works. If not check thermostat and the timerr contacts or if it is running. if not replace.

warm between doors is normal. if hot then clean coils and if coils clean make sure condenser fan motor working thats the fan in the back compartment, however if warm thats good. did the evaporator coil freeze from top to btm is that why u replaced heater. if it was then could be heater,if the coil is only getting frost on half the coil,you could have a sealed system problem. is the evaporator motor working in the frz side if not,then that could be the problem.if coil is froze up it needs to be defrosted. did you defrost coil when you replaced heater,if not try defrosting coils and then wait about 12 hrs and see how it does.

Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} To answer your question I know of no reason the electronic type of board would cause the heater to go out unless the defrost thermostat (or sensor) and board stuck in the defrost possession and did not stop the heater. Any time you replace the board and have had a defrost problem a check of the heater will either confirm or eliminate it but the defrost sensor should be replaced if the board is being blamed for non defrost. I cant rule out 100% that a bad board will not cause a heater problem but the high 99% range is most likely. If you have a volt ohm meter and can find the heater circuit on your board and the freezer has been running down to correct temp you can check the defrost circuit by ohming it out. Lower resistance of 10 to 60 ohms is common. Anything higher will require ohming the heater out directly and the defrost thermostat will be open if the temperature is above the stats range.

Common to all self defrosting refrigerators / freezers is the need to move air around to pickup heat inside the compartment. Common to all frost free refrigeration to maintain this feature are 3 items:
1 and initiator (defrost timer or circuit board),
2 A heat source for defrost (Usually an electric heat element but can be other types of heat sources)
3 A safety limit to stop the heat source, leaving it warm enough to defrost and keep the heat contained where it will not affect the compartment advisedly. In a standard type defrost (non - electronic) it is called a thermostat. In an electronic board defrost it is called a sensor.

The defrost timer / or board will never be in the Freezer. Other than that it could be in the refrigerator section behind a plastic cover or metal cover on the back outside. It could also be under Neath the front corners or center of the front kick plate.

A timer you can turn the cam clock wise till it clicks. A board will depend on the manufacturer as to how to send into defrost for a test. A sensor on the defrost type board may be required to by-pass into defrost or test mode.

The freezer section has the only cooling coil. It sounds like it is blocked with frost and thus won’t let the air circulate from freezer to refrigerator.

There is a defrost timer, (or board), a defrost heater, and a defrost safety thermostat. Any One of these or a combination of 2 can be your problem. If you have a energy efficient model that has electronic controls then you will have a board. The procedures for checking the circuit on a board vary by manufacturer of the board used and manufacturer of the appliance.

The defrost heater always has resistance and is attached to the freezer coil.
The defrost thermostat is also attached to the heater electrically, unless it is an electronic sensor type. Sensor types have a range of resistance that needs to be known to check and varies slightly with the temperature of the sensor.

If I haven't lost you here you maybe equipped with the life experiences that will allow you to do most of these checks. If its over your understanding I recommend you contact a reliable technician..

Hi,
There are a few reasons why the refrigerator part will not cool...here are a couple of tips that will help you to figure out why the refrigerantor is not cooling...

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3662945-refrigerator_not_cooling_or_fridge_not

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3771673-defrost_refrigerator_defrost_timer

heatman101

The freezer section has the only cooling coil. It sounds like it is blocked with frost and thus wont let the air circulate from freezer to refrigerator.

There is a defrost timer, (or board), a defrost heater, and a defrost safety thermostat. Any One of these or a combination of 2 can be your problem. If you have a energy efficient model that has electronic controls then you will have a board. The procedures for checking the circuit on a board vary by manufacturer of the board used and manufacturer of the appliance.

The defrost heater always has resistance and is attached to the freezer coil.
The defrost thermostat is also attached to the heater electrically, unless it is an electronic sensor type. Sensor types have a range of resistance that needs to be known to check and varies slightly with the temperature of the sensor.

If I haven't lost you here you maybe equipped with the life experiences that will allow you to do most of these checks. If its over your understanding I recommend you contact a reliable technician.

If this helps you please rate me as high as you can and thank you for using fixya.

If freezer fan is working then it is not automatically defrosting.it's either the defrost thermostat or the heater.