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bench bleed master cylinder before installing and after about 3 hours of bleeding. even got a vacume pump to bleed the brakes.still no pressure.bench bleed master cylinder before installing and after about 3 hours of bleeding. even got a vacume pump to bleed the brakes.still no pressure.
this is the second new master cylinder installed to fix the no pressure. when i bench bleed the master cylinder i used a bleeder kit so i did not see how far it shot out, but pushed in and out about 15 times after no air bubbles were coming out. this is the second new master cylinder installed to fix the no pressure. when i bench bleed the master cylinder i used a bleeder kit so i did not see how far it shot out, but pushed in and out about 15 times after no air bubbles were coming out.
Im helping a friend work on his toyota. Ive never experienced a problem like this before. He had replaced the front brake calipers and after bleeding them had no pressure building up. I recommended that the master cylinder was possibly bad. After changing the master could not get any fluid to come out. Finally with a vacuum pump we were able to get some fluid out but still no pedal. Exchanged the master cylinder and tried again. Still nothing. Youll get fluid and no more air but the second you get into the vehicle and hit the pedal it goes to the floor.Im helping a friend work on his toyota. Ive never experienced a problem like this before. He had replaced the front brake calipers and after bleeding them had no pressure building up. I recommended that the master cylinder was possibly bad. After changing the master could not get any fluid to come out. Finally with a vacuum pump we were able to get some fluid out but still no pedal. Exchanged the master cylinder and tried again. Still nothing. Youll get fluid and no more air but the second you get into the vehicle and hit the pedal it goes to the floor.
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What was the pressure when you bencjh bled? Did it squirt out about 2 feet? If not, you have a bad master cylinder.What was the pressure when you bencjh bled? Did it squirt out about 2 feet? If not, you have a bad master cylinder.
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The front brakes calipers do not adjust. If they are locking down all the way,and will not release the brake caliper hoses are at fault,replace them. If they are not moving in to brake the wheel then bleed the master cylinder and then the brake calipers.
Once you have bled the air from the brake lines,clamp off the front brake hoses carefully.Does the pedal feel better now?
Then the pad /caliper fit is allowing too much play.Is the pedal the same?Then clamp the rear hose and try the pedal.Is it fine with the rear hose clamped?If so we now know the problem is at the rear brakes.One common low pedal rear brake cause is brake shoes that do not fit the drums.Remove the drums and look at the shoes,are they showing contact wear fully or just in the middle of the shoe?Remove a shoe and place it in the drum.Can you rock the shoe against the drum surface?Once drums have been resurfaced,the shoes will not fit fully against the drum allowing the shoe the flex when applying pressure to it and this can easily create a low soft brake pedal. Of course rear brake adjustment must be correct once brake shoe contact is correct.To correct brake shoe contact,have your shoes re arc-ed to fit resurfaced drums or install new drums.Don't overlook brake master cyl /brake pedal push rod adjustment too.
Hi John, I'm not familiar with the front axle you ask about, but maybe I have some answers for you. Have the brakes ever worked correctly previously or have you fitted the parts? If the brakes have worked before, they should work again. If you have replaced the axle and braking system, have you carried out the bleeding procedure correctly? Always begin with the rear brake furthest from the master cylinder and work towards the front finishing with the wheel closest to the master cylinder and of course checking the reservoir frequently to make sure there is enough fluid. If you have drum brakes on the rear which is common, pull off the drums and inspect them for wear and frozen adjusters, as if the adjustment is low it will effect all round brake operation, giving the impression of soft spongy brakes and very low brake pedal operation. Once the brakes have been bled and all air has been expelled the volume of fluid pushed through from the master cylinder should operate the pistons in the calipers and unless there is a vast difference in the volume of the pistons now fitted to the front end, the front brakes should work. Regards John.
Does the car have ABS ? And does it have an equalizer block for the 4 wheels ? It sounds like the ABS has been affected, or there is an equalizer block that is stuck on the front wheels only. Can you open the bleeder or the rear line on the master cyl and get fluid to come out by depressing the pedal ?
If the car has Drum style rear brakes, make sure the adjustment is good. It takes a lot of fluid to activate them.
PS. I assume you did bleed the rears.
Have you changed the brake hoses on the front going to the brake caliper?If not,this could be the problem,also,when bleeding,only pump the pedal one time upon releasing the bleeder screw,do not pump the pedal,start at the master cylinder,then the right rear,and the left rear,and the right front and left front in that order,adjust the rear brakes to where the brakes are dragging pretty good,but are not locking up,
BY TRUCK HAVING ABS BRAKE.YOU NEED A SCANNER TO BLEED BRAKES THE SCANNER HAS TO RESET OPERATION OF THE BRAKE HYDRALIC SYTEM BEFORE YOU CAN BLEED SYSTEM.
I assume you mean that you replaced the front pads and rear shoes. Or did you also replace the disks and drums?? Either way you should be ok unless you also replaced the slave cylinders on the rears.
The fluid flows back up to the Master Cylinder as you squeeze the calipers and the slaves to fit the new parts in. Some people pre-fill the caliper to reduce the amount of air and make bleeding easier.Now .....Grinding better be a wrong choice of words.
Possibly you spilled fluid on the pads while bleeding the lines. This will cause a binding and shuddering when you apply brake pressure. This will also make you think the lines are not bled properly because of the increased pedal pressure you are putting on the wet/lubricated front pads. If so, replace the pads. Don't try washing them with aerosol cleaner cause it takes more time and money than simply changing them.
There is a level switch in the master cylinder if the fluid level is low it will turn on the light and If you pressure or vacuum bleed the brakes you will center the proporting valve switch that warns of low brake pressure in either Front or rear.
Vacuum bleeding I have found to work the best.
Make sure the Park brake lever is all the way released. If you find this informationn helpful please leave me a favorable rating and by all means contact me if I can be of any further help. www.aceautomotive1.com
bench bleed master cylinder before installing and after about 3 hours of bleeding. even got a vacume pump to bleed the brakes.still no pressure.
this is the second new master cylinder installed to fix the no pressure. when i bench bleed the master cylinder i used a bleeder kit so i did not see how far it shot out, but pushed in and out about 15 times after no air bubbles were coming out.
Im helping a friend work on his toyota. Ive never experienced a problem like this before. He had replaced the front brake calipers and after bleeding them had no pressure building up. I recommended that the master cylinder was possibly bad. After changing the master could not get any fluid to come out. Finally with a vacuum pump we were able to get some fluid out but still no pedal. Exchanged the master cylinder and tried again. Still nothing. Youll get fluid and no more air but the second you get into the vehicle and hit the pedal it goes to the floor.
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