Brakes were losing pressure. I checked front and rear. Front pads looked worn but half still there, no caliper leaks, so OK. Rear needed new shoes. After taking wheels off, saw rear brake lines were rusted and leaking. I replaced the rear brake lines, rear brake shoes and rear driver side wheel cylinder. Lines from the master cylinder looked good till halfway back under the car so I cut the brake lines and just removed the back half on both rear sides. I used unions to connect the new lines at that point. Then I formed my own lines from that point back and replaced them. Hooked everything back up. Added brake fluid to the master cylinder, and then I was going to bleed the lines. After pumping and holding there is no resistance. No fluid left the master cylinder even with rear lines empty. Started engine and tried pumping the pedal again, when you hold the pedal in, you can hear the engine slow down a little bit. When apply pressure to the pedal you can hear a quick clicking from under the dash, next to the center hump on the passenger side. I disconnected 2 bottom lines and one top line at the master cylinder. I expected fluid to drain out from the two bottom lines but nothing came out and the master is still full. Don't know what to do or check now. No pressure at all in the pedal.
Might be a stuck brake caliper or miss adjusted hand brake.
Hope this helps.
Does the car have ABS ? And does it have an equalizer block for the 4 wheels ?
It sounds like the ABS has been affected, or there is an equalizer block that is stuck on the front wheels only.
Can you open the bleeder or the rear line on the master cyl and get fluid to come out by depressing the pedal ?
SOURCE: replaced front calipers,master cylinder,front and
did you bench bled master? if yes do you have abs system,if so you must bleed at abs block,if it has bleeders, if not then you must line bleed all 6 lines.2in from master 4 out to wheeles. then rebleed wheel in cylinder.If you have bleeders at abs block you dont to rebleed wheels. best dun with powerbleeder. hoooooops this helps
SOURCE: 2005 Mountaineer Rear Emergency Brake Shoes stuck on inside Rotor
Well, you will have to wiggle and pry the rotor until it comes off. I just did this on a 2003 mountaineer and it was a bear. At least one side was very hard. It turned out the rotor inside was so bad that the shoes could not get past a lip on the outer edge of the parking brake effective surface. I had to pry and hit until it came off. Once removed I noticed that the shoes were shot, I mean, the braking material was completely gone. This is where the fun began. Removed the springs and removed the hold down clips. The hold down clips were stretched and were not effective by the way. Removing the shoes was not too bad. Installing the new ones is difficult as the wheel hub is in the way. Carefully install the springs and adjuster. Once you get past that then you have to deal with the hold down clips. It happens that the top pin where the clips attaches to is fairly accessible from behind so you can support it while you install the hold down clip. Again, it is doable but very difficult as the hub is in the way and the room is barely enough. Once you do the upper, the bottom one is the bear, the hole to access the pin from behind happens to be underneath the CV joint and it is not easily visible. I had the worst time installing this clip. If you do not then the shoes will rub against the rotor. Not good. Anyways, it is not easy, I do not know what they were thinking with this system. Removing the nut in the center will only allow you to remove the cv joint, you will have to deal with the wheel bearing if you want to remove the hub. Good luck, and I hope this helped.
SOURCE: rear wheel brake lock-up
1995 Monte Carlo rear tires locked up ,goes into gear but wont move?
SOURCE: rear brakes
you need to turn the adjuster
there is a little hole on the bottom of your backen plate to ajust the brakes up
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