I have a 1992 Camry, and suddenly none of the power windows or locks would work. I removed all three relays behind the fuse block (driver's side L kick panel) and swapped them around, disconnected and reconnected all pertinent connectors (from main switch through door to connector block, main to fuse block, relay interconnect board, etc), removed "condenser" (black, large fuse looking thing...solid state breaker?) and a small square black silicon device with a diode symbol on it (measured good---neg-to-neg, + to +=open, neg lead on meter to +, pos lead to diode gnd=3.6ohms), and nothing worked. So I drove to the store, windows still down, and by habit I rolled the windows up, turned the car off, opened the door, and locked the doors---as I got out, I realized that it had just worked! I don't think I jiggled anything (partial connection), as I tried the windows and locks after all things I had tried, and they were still inop when I gave up and started driving to the store. So, when I come out of the store, I get into my car and, well...what do you think? Yup---inop again! So, the only thing I can see as a common denominator is the action of opening the door (where bundle of wires going from the main driver side door switch to interconnect block under fuse block no. one) could be agitating a broken ground or main power (blue in that bundle, I think). However, I also want to rule out what the manual says is the breaker---WHERE IN THE HELL IS IT?!?!?!

Not the wiring---ohm'd everything out...I see only one blue wire in the interconnect (L driver kick panel), but two coming out of the harness---the two both have continuity to the single blue in the interconnect. Since the color code is the same (no stripes, bars, etc), this generally makes sense...just concerned a little since they seem to be voltage supply conductors...I will next try to do the voltage checks, and possibly bypass the relays. I did replace them (swapped them with the fan and A/C relays, all the same), plus I ohm'd the coils out (.046 ohms), and checked continuity of the switching plate (on/off), and all was well. One relay (closest to the center of the car) would get hot as hell, and I think this one actually ohm'd out to .549 ohms...but that was after I accidentally dented the coil cylinder when I dropped it :). Again, I swapped the relays. I thought I had relay problems before with the fans, so I wired the main straight to the ignition fuse (tap), and a toggle switch for the secondary, although the A/C cont relay still kicks that fan on just fine. I mention this because I did not test the door switch relay(s) in the fan sockets...I did find the breaker, though---the one you can reset with a pin---it is behind the relay interconnect board, to the right of the fuses---the brown rectangular board, about 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" or so. I reset the breaker after each test (could not tell if it actually popped, but once it seemed to click when I pushed the contact plate back in...?). So, more electrical testing---like I said, I will try to bypass the relays...the schematic is unclear on the physical locations of the relays, what relay is what, etc., so I may end up chasing traces and wires...:(---I am a Senior Cisco Network Engineer, for cryin' out loud! I was a mechanic and electrician/electrical/micro-electrical/electro-mechanical engineer in my past lives...a glitch in the time-space continuum caused a disturbance in the Force, resulting in my lives bleeding into each other... Not the wiring---ohm'd everything out...I see only one blue wire in the interconnect (L driver kick panel), but two coming out of the harness---the two both have continuity to the single blue in the interconnect. Since the color code is the same (no stripes, bars, etc), this generally makes sense...just concerned a little since they seem to be voltage supply conductors...I will next try to do the voltage checks, and possibly bypass the relays. I did replace them (swapped them with the fan and A/C relays, all the same), plus I ohm'd the coils out (.046 ohms), and checked continuity of the switching plate (on/off), and all was well. One relay (closest to the center of the car) would get hot as hell, and I think this one actually ohm'd out to .549 ohms...but that was after I accidentally dented the coil cylinder when I dropped it :). Again, I swapped the relays. I thought I had relay problems before with the fans, so I wired the main straight to the ignition fuse (tap), and a toggle switch for the secondary, although the A/C cont relay still kicks that fan on just fine. I mention this because I did not test the door switch relay(s) in the fan sockets...I did find the breaker, though---the one you can reset with a pin---it is behind the relay interconnect board, to the right of the fuses---the brown rectangular board, about 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" or so. I reset the breaker after each test (could not tell if it actually popped, but once it seemed to click when I pushed the contact plate back in...?). So, more electrical testing---like I said, I will try to bypass the relays...the schematic is unclear on the physical locations of the relays, what relay is what, etc., so I may end up chasing traces and wires...:(---I am a Senior Cisco Network Engineer, for cryin' out loud! I was a mechanic and electrician/electrical/micro-electrical/electro-mechanical engineer in my past lives...a glitch in the time-space continuum caused a disturbance in the Force, resulting in my lives bleeding into each other...