Estate Dryers - Page 7 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

It will either be somewhere is the door area or on the backside of the control panel. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Did the circuit breaker trip? If not You may have a bad internal fuse, motor, door switch, timer or start switch.

You will have to remove the back panel to access this part. Be sure that you unplug the machine before starting. Once the back panel has been taken off and placed aside the thermal switch will be located on the left lower side near the blower housing . It will be thin and long and located near the cycling thermostat that has for prongs on it. On certain machines, the thermal fuse is located in the front. To access this you must remove the kickplate, which can be done by pushing the clips, one on each side jsut above the top of the kickplate, in between the top and abottom portion. The part numbers are the same for either style dryer. To test this part you can either take the wires off it and tie them together then plug the machine back in and see if it heats, or you can use amultimeter and check to see if there is continuity, if there is its good, if not, bad. The thermal fuse will usually be white, and if located in the back, be thin and long with two wires on it, left and right. If in the bottom front, it will be front center on the exhaust duct. Another possible problem is that the door switch isn't functioning properly. You can visually check this by open the door and pressing the switch and listen for a click sound upon pressing and releasing . If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

That is the same model dryer I bought for my parents eight years ago. You will have to contact Whirlpool for a repair guide.

remove outer housing belt will be attached to rear of drum.Good luck its no fun

Sounds like a bad timer. Your dryer is a Whirlpool product.so a replacement timer should be easy to locate. If the timer is advancing but the dryer won't stop, the problem could be the control unit. Run another load of clothes and take notice of the timer's position. If it doesn't run out, then it's very likely the timer. The video below shows step by step instructions for replacing the timer unit.

Whirlpool part# 279838 $82.06 retail http://www.on-timeappliance.com/dryerrepair.html

Please review the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r793520-3_prong_4_prong_power_cord_conversion

Do you have your power cord wired correctly? Please read through the link thoroughly and confirm the wire color coding and the placement of where you have the wires terminated. I hope this helps you. Let me know if you have further questions.

Clothes Dryer Repair and Common Problems - Loud Noises, Overheating and Not Spinning84rate or flag this page

By expectusBasic inside of a dryer, picture from hometips.comClothes Dryers Problems

I decided to start this hub due to the amount of problems I have been having with my current clothes dryer , and what I went through to fix a few problems I had with my dryer including a broken tumbler belt and loose tumbler drum.

So the basic design of a dryer hasn't really changed much and most people will find that there dryer will last a long time and wont generally need a complete upgrade and a few fixes every now and then will keep it running for a very long time.

So depending on the design of your dryer it will look pretty much similar to the picture on the left and contain all the main components. The main parts that usually require fixes or maintenance include

- Drum belt and Rollers

- Motor and motor bearings

- Blower , heater and heat sensorsSafety and Cleaning

The first thing is to make sure everything is unplugged before starting to tinker inside your dryer, and depending on the style of your dryer pull the back door or hatch off slowly so you dont accidentally rip off the wires.

Some old dryers also have very loose tumbler drums so when opening the back door hold the drum in place to stop it from banging around inside the dryer compartment.

Cleaning

Cleaning is very important for your dryer, and after opening up my clothes dryer after about 10 years of use I could tell it really needed some regular maintenance and cleaning.

There was an amazing layer of dust covering everything and the actual box compartment was dull of dust and little bits of sand and dust. For newer dryers this may be less of a problem but sometimes if you hear your drum spinning a bit loudly it may just be a large layer of dust and dirt.Common Problems

1. The Clothes Dryer Drum is not spinning or not spinning correctly ( loud noises and screeching sounds)

- The most common reason for the dryer drum to stop spinning is if your drum belt has snapped or has been worn down completely. This is an easy fix and simply involves buying a replacement belt and feeding it through the pulleys and on the roller and then back around the middle of the drum.

- The rollers could have worm out causing the drum to spin in a bumpy and noisy manner , these are the little circle shaped objects your dryer actually sites and can usually be replaced depending on how old your dryer is. The pulleys could also be broken causing problems.

- The motor could have died after many years of use if the drum is not moving at all and if it is moving the motor bearing could be off causing to spin around very roughly and sometimes scratch against the sides of the dryer compartment.

- Noises coming from the dryer when its plugged in and spinning could also be due to a huge amount of dust built up around the dryer drum. Sometimes cleaning out the inside of your dryer and returning the drum to the correct position can fix this problem.

Screeching noises are not a good sign and sometimes its a sign that you drum is slowly cutting into the sides of your dryer which could permanently put your dryer out of use if its continues.Digital multimeter, look for resistance settings or OHMS symbolClothes Dryer Heat Problems

Another common problem is that your dryer will either run too hot or too cold , and sometimes take many cycles to simply dry a few items.A useful device that could in handy for testing that each component is working is a simple multimeter or volt meter you can buy from an electronics store.

The way you test the functionality of each component is to get your multimeter or voltmeter and put on the lowest Resistance setting,

Temperature Switch - Leads on switch terminal should read zero or infinity

same for thermostat, heating coils and timer testing.

The most causes of these sorts of issues are

- The temperature sensors could be dead or fried and need replacing, they look like little silver dollars and are usually located under the drum.

- The exhaust outlet could be clogged with dust and dirt causing your dryer to run hotter than the temperature you set it at.

- thermostat or heating coils could be defective and need replacement

- There could also be problems with the timer, if the timer is not working correctly this may cause the heater and blower to remain inactive.

- The fuse is dead and needs to be replaced.Dead Dryer AlternativesPolder Two-Tier Free Standing Clothes Drying Rack with Mesh Garment DryerAmazon Price: $21.52List Price: $29.99Indoor Clothes Drier Y Airer Rack, 79'Amazon Price: $33.00List Price: $51.99Steel TAssembly 4 pcAmazon Price: $24.95List Price: $33.99Dryer totally Dead wont Start

So your dryer wont start at all this can be caused by the failure of one or more components and is sometimes hard to pin point.

The most common are below apart from problems relating to your power mains

• Timer or thermostat
• Terminal block
• Start switch

If anyone has any problems with there old simpson dryer I may be able to help you out as I spent a lot of time tinkering with my old simpsons clothes dryers.

Generally speaking on front load whirlpool dryers the belt can be accessed from the rear by removing the back panel. Good luck.

First, check to make sure the breakers are not thrown and that you have 220v at the outlet. If that is all OK, then you will need to replace the safety fuse located on the rear of the dryer.

Check the continuity of the thermal fuse, often the culprit. Also check the power relay. Sorry but I am not familiar with the Estate dryers. But the above are two common problems in a wide variety of electric dryers.

Hello,

Does the timer advance in timed dry setting or will it not advance no matter where its set??

If it does advance in the timed dry (or air fluff setting) but just does not advavce when dryer is set to autodry setting the problem is going to a poor air flow problem and the lint filter/blower housing should be checked for lint build up also the vent tube should be checked for a blockage

If the timer does not advance at all on any setting ya need to check the wiring of the dryer for a possible burnt wire on the neutral side


GENE

You do not state if you are using a machine with an automatic drying sensor. If so the calibration of the sensor is off. Try setting the control to a dryer setting. If you are using it by time only, it would appear there may be a blockage in the air outlet. Check the damper flapper at the output of the air vent. It might be partially stuck closed thus reducing the air flow around the clothes. Just a thought that your washer spin dry may not be sufficiently spin drying the clothes and so that the clothes are overly wet when put into the dryer..

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley. If you have to replace your drum belt and if you have a front loading machine. Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer. Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum. Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn. While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a noise like a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them. I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
http://www.partselect.com/ http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
Good luck, I hope this helps Please do not forget to rate me Thank you

Hi

I believe that everything else is fine rather it is the thermal fuse that is located inside the rear panel to the exhaust duct that is bad and should be replaced. If you want you can test this fuse for continuity and if it is bad then it should be replaced, as it cannot be reset. If the fuse is fine then it can be due to the control board that is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel