Timer will not advance even after replacement. What next ?

Hey John,
Its possible that a resister that connects inline to the timer advance motor is what the problem, here is a link of what the resister looks like along with the part numberhttp://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/R... please note the part number as item number is Repaiclinic's internal part number and the OEM part number is 279872 replacing that resister should resolve the problem and the timer will advance normally...... GENE Hey John, Its possible that a resister that connects inline to the timer advance motor is what the problem, here is a link of what the resister looks like along with the part number http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Resistor/279872/469773 please note the part number as item number is Repaiclinic's internal part number and the OEM part number is 279872 replacing that resister should resolve the problem and the timer will advance normally...... GENE

Hey John,that resister will be somewhere in the control panel if ya haven't already take a look at the picture in the link to repairclinic and see what it looks like so ya know what your looking for,at least on of the wires from it will connected to the timer so tracing each wire on the the timer should make it easier to find since its covered in taht black shrink wrap is could be pretty hard to find yet again it will be in the control panel somewhere Hey John,that resister will be somewhere in the control panel if ya haven't already take a look at the picture in the link to repairclinic and see what it looks like so ya know what your looking for,at least on of the wires from it will connected to the timer so tracing each wire on the the timer should make it easier to find since its covered in taht black shrink wrap is could be pretty hard to find yet again it will be in the control panel somewhere

oh a thing that should make it easier to find it will be a orange wire oh a thing that should make it easier to find it will be a orange wire

let me ask ya a question,what is your exact model number...listed in the question is TEDS840JQ after the JQ is another number,on my parts look up site i use their are 4 models with the TED840JQ and each of those has a additional number at the eand its either 0,1,3,2. Only the model with the 3 at the end is the only one listed as using that resister..if your model number ends in 0,1 or 2 it has no resister yet i know a bad resister will make the timer not advance regardless whether its a brand new timer or not...that's why i said the resister would be the problem but if your model doesn't have a resister i have to mull over the reason why the timer wont advance let me ask ya a question,what is your exact model number...listed in the question is TEDS840JQ after the JQ is another number,on my parts look up site i use their are 4 models with the TED840JQ and each of those has a additional number at the eand its either 0,1,3,2. Only the model with the 3 at the end is the only one listed as using that resister..if your model number ends in 0,1 or 2 it has no resister yet i know a bad resister will make the timer not advance regardless whether its a brand new timer or not...that's why i said the resister would be the problem but if your model doesn't have a resister i have to mull over the reason why the timer wont advance

Hey John,
i am striving to figure why your timer isn't advancing. If you haven't already tried one thing ya should do is check and see if power is going to the timer motor. to do that use a multimeter set to measure ac volts ancd check on the 2 wires of the timer motor for 120 volts ac when the dryer is running .if ya dont have 120 check and see which part is missing..is the hot side or the neutral side that isn't at the timer motor.



The wire for the timer motor that connects to the BU (blue) terminal is the hot leg..place one meter lead on the the blue wire terminal and the othe meter lead on the a green ground wire and see if 120 volts is coming from the timer to the timer motor



The neutral side can be checked for power to it but it can be tested for continuity,set the meter to check for continuity and check from the wire on the timer marked as TM (timer motor) to the white wire on the connection where the cord connects to and see if it has continuity at all times..this can be done with the dryer off and unplugged .



If you do not have a meter they can be purchased pretty inespensively at HomeDepot,Lowe's for around $15 for a basic model and if ya have a HARBOR FREIGHT in your local area they are $5.00 for a basic model (google harborfreight.com to see if one is near by to ya )



When searching that exact model number i did see a resister on the wire harness to the heat selector switch and i dont know for sure since i can not find a wiring diagram online but i know that wire harness has a blue and violet wire and suspect the blue wire goes on the same exact blue terminal on the timer that is the hot side for the timer motor and would suspect that is the resistor for the timer motor..i can not find the one im thinking of but as i said yesterday whena timer doesnt advance and its a new timer i would highly suspect a resste for the timer motor as the problem



One thing ya could do if you have the wiring diagran for your dryer which usually in the control panel ..ya could scan it if able and post that scan as a picture to photobucket and send me the link for it so i could look at it to see why that timer isnt advancing.



The standard wiring for a timer motor though is blue hot/tm neutral giving 120 volts to the timer motor



i hope some of this will help,
GENE Hey John, i am striving to figure why your timer isn't advancing. If you haven't already tried one thing ya should do is check and see if power is going to the timer motor. to do that use a multimeter set to measure ac volts ancd check on the 2 wires of the timer motor for 120 volts ac when the dryer is running .if ya dont have 120 check and see which part is missing..is the hot side or the neutral side that isn't at the timer motor. The wire for the timer motor that connects to the BU (blue) terminal is the hot leg..place one meter lead on the the blue wire terminal and the othe meter lead on the a green ground wire and see if 120 volts is coming from the timer to the timer motor The neutral side can be checked for power to it but it can be tested for continuity,set the meter to check for continuity and check from the wire on the timer marked as TM (timer motor) to the white wire on the connection where the cord connects to and see if it has continuity at all times..this can be done with the dryer off and unplugged . If you do not have a meter they can be purchased pretty inespensively at HomeDepot,Lowe's for around $15 for a basic model and if ya have a HARBOR FREIGHT in your local area they are $5.00 for a basic model (google harborfreight.com to see if one is near by to ya ) When searching that exact model number i did see a resister on the wire harness to the heat selector switch and i dont know for sure since i can not find a wiring diagram online but i know that wire harness has a blue and violet wire and suspect the blue wire goes on the same exact blue terminal on the timer that is the hot side for the timer motor and would suspect that is the resistor for the timer motor..i can not find the one im thinking of but as i said yesterday whena timer doesnt advance and its a new timer i would highly suspect a resste for the timer motor as the problem One thing ya could do if you have the wiring diagran for your dryer which usually in the control panel ..ya could scan it if able and post that scan as a picture to photobucket and send me the link for it so i could look at it to see why that timer isnt advancing. The standard wiring for a timer motor though is blue hot/tm neutral giving 120 volts to the timer motor i hope some of this will help, GENE

John, It's supposed to be against the rules for me to post my email here on Fixya and hope they forgive me but i am doing this in a effort to help ya with the dryer i could use form seeing that wiring diagram to help ya ... my email ya can send it to is [email protected] John, It's supposed to be against the rules for me to post my email here on Fixya and hope they forgive me but i am doing this in a effort to help ya with the dryer i could use form seeing that wiring diagram to help ya ... my email ya can send it to is [email protected]

Hey Jack,,
Thanks i received the wiring diagram,when i see it was wrong onm what colors to check it's----- when on timed dry their should be a constiant power supply to the timer motor via the blue and orange wire, and when on auto dry setting the power is supposed to be from blue and the white wire with the black stripe on it (WB) Now once again the common thing to those is the blue wire..the same blue wire that the wire goes to on that resister on the heat selector switch and i would seriously consider replacing that resister, Their is a wire harness with the plug and the blue and voilet wire the part number for that is 8539893 perhaps though ya might want to check that resister value to see if its good. Tell me if i am wrong but i see the colors of the bands on the resister to be blue,red,red &gold when looking up online the value for that color combo is 6,200 ohms (plus/ minus 5%) i cant tell for sure but it could be blue brown,brown, gold in that case it would be 610 ohms (a mere 10% of the 6.2 thousand) here is what i used to calculate the valueshttp://www.csgnetwork.com/resistcolcalc.... so if the colors are different let me know and ill recalculate the value





Good luck i hope this helps,

GENE



Ps i was in the process of writing this when i got your message asking did i receive it Hey Jack,, Thanks i received the wiring diagram,when i see it was wrong onm what colors to check it's----- when on timed dry their should be a constiant power supply to the timer motor via the blue and orange wire, and when on auto dry setting the power is supposed to be from blue and the white wire with the black stripe on it (WB) Now once again the common thing to those is the blue wire..the same blue wire that the wire goes to on that resister on the heat selector switch and i would seriously consider replacing that resister, Their is a wire harness with the plug and the blue and voilet wire the part number for that is 8539893 perhaps though ya might want to check that resister value to see if its good. Tell me if i am wrong but i see the colors of the bands on the resister to be blue,red,red &gold when looking up online the value for that color combo is 6,200 ohms (plus/ minus 5%) i cant tell for sure but it could be blue brown,brown, gold in that case it would be 610 ohms (a mere 10% of the 6.2 thousand) here is what i used to calculate the values http://www.csgnetwork.com/resistcolcalc.html so if the colors are different let me know and ill recalculate the value Good luck i hope this helps, GENE Ps i was in the process of writing this when i got your message asking did i receive it

No Jack their is no need to remove it from the plug to test it just unplug the plug from the switch and place one meter lead on each terminal in the plug to check it...one thing i overlooked before in your previous comment is that ya also had 120 to ground on the TM terminal on the timer motor....What do ya get if ya place one meter lead on TM and the other on BU i would expect 240 which baffles me even more ...i didn't want to say so since it makes absolutely no sense but when i looked at the diagram i read it as 120 one each wire at the timer motor and no neutral...did the original timer ever advance?? No Jack their is no need to remove it from the plug to test it just unplug the plug from the switch and place one meter lead on each terminal in the plug to check it...one thing i overlooked before in your previous comment is that ya also had 120 to ground on the TM terminal on the timer motor....What do ya get if ya place one meter lead on TM and the other on BU i would expect 240 which baffles me even more ...i didn't want to say so since it makes absolutely no sense but when i looked at the diagram i read it as 120 one each wire at the timer motor and no neutral...did the original timer ever advance??

i made a small typo before i said when testing the heat selector switch (not the resister) to test for 10 ohms minimum on high setting....i meant check for a minimum of 10 thousand (10K) ohms on high i made a small typo before i said when testing the heat selector switch (not the resister) to test for 10 ohms minimum on high setting....i meant check for a minimum of 10 thousand (10K) ohms on high

One last thing to check JAck,and that the heat selector switch itself,unplug that plug and place the 2 meter leads on the terminals on the heate selector switch and when set to the lowest setting it should read 10 ohms maximum and on the high setting it should be 10k minimum,thats about the last thing to check before buying a new dryer. I posted this problem on the experts forum here on FIXYA,to get additional ideas and two other tech's also think the resister will be the problem but now we can rule that out. I also emailed Whirlpool asking about it and as if no response from them ,it drives me crazy trying to figure out whats the problem since its usually sucha easy problem to diagnose...but most dryers are wired to 240 volts ac on the timer motor but just 120 so thats whats got me in a quandrie as to the problem since 240 at the timer motor is so rare way to wire it that way. I will keep think about it (as i have been) but with replacing the timer and the cycling thermostat as i remembered you saying ya already did,and everything else seeming to be good,i am at my wits end. I just got in and have comments in the experts forum and if any one has some in sight on it i'll let ya know after reading them. One last thing to check JAck,and that the heat selector switch itself,unplug that plug and place the 2 meter leads on the terminals on the heate selector switch and when set to the lowest setting it should read 10 ohms maximum and on the high setting it should be 10k minimum,thats about the last thing to check before buying a new dryer. I posted this problem on the experts forum here on FIXYA,to get additional ideas and two other tech's also think the resister will be the problem but now we can rule that out. I also emailed Whirlpool asking about it and as if no response from them ,it drives me crazy trying to figure out whats the problem since its usually sucha easy problem to diagnose...but most dryers are wired to 240 volts ac on the timer motor but just 120 so thats whats got me in a quandrie as to the problem since 240 at the timer motor is so rare way to wire it that way. I will keep think about it (as i have been) but with replacing the timer and the cycling thermostat as i remembered you saying ya already did,and everything else seeming to be good,i am at my wits end. I just got in and have comments in the experts forum and if any one has some in sight on it i'll let ya know after reading them.

Sure does help...it sounds to me like your using a older style analog meter with a needle and not a digital display meter?? i sure don't want ya to waste money on a digital meter but again if ya have a Harbor Freight store in your area,a digital meter is $5.00 but that's ok. To check that switch ya only want to check pin #1 & pin#3 when its set to the lowest heat setting ya should have 10 ohms max. (10 ohms max is continuity basically ) when the switch is set to high their should be a minimum of 10 thousand ohms ,which will be no continuity on a analog meter,on the pins# 1/3 So it sounds as if that heat switch is good since on the low setting it has continuity and on the high setting it does not have continuity (10 thousand ohms or above is hardly what i would call continuity ) Sure does help...it sounds to me like your using a older style analog meter with a needle and not a digital display meter?? i sure don't want ya to waste money on a digital meter but again if ya have a Harbor Freight store in your area,a digital meter is $5.00 but that's ok. To check that switch ya only want to check pin #1 & pin#3 when its set to the lowest heat setting ya should have 10 ohms max. (10 ohms max is continuity basically ) when the switch is set to high their should be a minimum of 10 thousand ohms ,which will be no continuity on a analog meter,on the pins# 1/3 So it sounds as if that heat switch is good since on the low setting it has continuity and on the high setting it does not have continuity (10 thousand ohms or above is hardly what i would call continuity )