Question about Black & Decker Power Inverter PI400AB
Do you mean that the string keeps feeding as you try to operate the trimmer?
If so, you are winding the string on the spool the wrong way. Put the string on the spool in a clockwise direction. This should do it.
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
Hi, the actual part you are talking about is not the heat fuse but the heat relay.
I have the same coffee pot, it 'died' on me and I was able to fix it. I actually had a bad relay AND a bad fuse. Here is what I did to get it working again WITHOUT purchasing any new parts and still keeping things SAFE.
Fist, unplug it! Remove the bottom cover ( you may need a special screwdriver for one of the screws, I had to file a notch in an old flat head ).
Unscrew the nut that connects the element to a bracket and to the plate. Remove the parts and set aside.
First thing you need to check is to see if it one ( or both ) of the actual fuses are burnt out. There is a wire that goes from the relay ( white ceramic cylinder ) to the heating element ( thick aluminum loop ), this wire has an extra sheath on it. Under this sheath there are 2 heat fuses in series. Check these fuses to see if one or both are burnt out. One of mine was. If both of yours are burnt out, you will need to order new ones ( see a post here ), if only one is out, you can do what I did. Using 2 pairs of needle nose pliers, I carefully loosened the crimping on both sides of the burnt out fuse and removed it. Using the same crimping I attached the remaining good fuse to the wire. Make sure you now have continuity from the output of the relay to the element.
The relay is the round ceramic thing with an aluminum "cap". It is attached to the heating element via a small black clip. Put an ohm meeter across this piece, if you have continuity, the contacts are probably welded shut, which is why your fuse blew. If not, the likely cause it, the contacts are burnt. Either way the fix is the same.
At the base of this relay there is a small lip. I used a small file to make this lip thin in one spot, then I carefully peeled it off all the way around. There is a crease right before the lip ( the part of the cap closest to the wires side of the relay ) and the lip peeled away nicely along this crease without damaging the cap itself. You can now remove the cap part and see the relay workings underneath. Be very careful when you remove the cap. Under the cap is a black piece of some kind of rubber with a tiny white piece of plastic in the middle. Don't lose these.
Now using an old toothbrush and some acetone clean the relay contacts and carefully free them if they are welded shut. Now use a small piece of fine sandpaper to clean up both of the contacts. Check the unit with a ohm meter, and if you have continuity, this part is done.
Now that you have peeled the lip off the relay, the pressure of the clip is required to hold it together. Carefully reassemble the relay ( don't forget the little white piece ) and while holding it together, against the spot on the element you removed it from, slide the clip on and back into place. Using the ohm meter again, check that every thing is connected as it should. With the switch on ( you DID unplug it, RIGHT? ) you should have continuity all the way from the plug to the heating element. If all is well put it back together and make some coffee.
I had some extra thermal grease laying around, so I cleaned of the old stuff and put some new on before reassembling ( where the element contacts the burner plate ). This probably not necessary, but not a bad idea either.
Posted on Aug 13, 2009
no its not the fuse in the plug but it could be the internal turmal fuse triping out on you,,,if its getting to hot this thurmal fuse will tip out keep intake vents clean and clear when using the hot air gun,,
Posted on Nov 03, 2009
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In June of 1998 Black & Decker (US), Inc. sold its Household Products business to Applica Consumer Products Incorporated.
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