Fan blows,glowplug is hot but will not fire,fuel flow seams low help.

If both hoses are hot, the problem could be the inside...could be a blend door actuator

A few possibilities:
Stuck or inoperable Air-flow Diverter:
There are tow types of air-flow diverters: Vacuum Actuated and Slide-Cable Actuated (some will have an electric solenoid that controls a vacuum actuated type). In either case the default position of the diverter is "cold air" or closed - blocking air flow over the heater core. Sounds like it may have a vacuum actuated control - when it looses vacuum it will let the air-flow diverter swing shut blocking off air blow through the heater core resulting in "cold air" Could be a bad control/slider, bad or loose hose, or bad actuator. If you remove the blower motor assembly you will be able to see the diverter and might be able to tell the issue is.
Stuck or inoperable heater valve:
This valve controls the flow of engine coolant to/through the heater core. It is normally closed - blocking flow. This can be vacuum operated or cable controlled just like the air-flow diverter. Simple to check - in the engine compartment, to the left of the engine locate the cooling (heating) lines that go into the fire wall - locate the valve and check its operation.
Another possibility is low coolant level in your engine/radiator which may be too low to allow flow of the coolant through the heating coil, although you would likely notice that the engine was over heating/running hot.

may need a new glowplug timer trie leaving the ingnition in on position a few seconds b4 cranking also u need 2 check ur not getting fuel flow back and loseing pressure at pump

Hello, I operated a Ford diesel through Michigan Winters. There are usually issues with the Glowplug Timer or the Power Relay to it. If not that, then you probably have a bleeddown issue in the fuel system.

If you trace the wires off the Glowplugs, it will lead to the Glowplug Timer and then the next part is the Glowplug Power Relay. If you take off one Glowplug wire and put the Hot lead of a Voltmeter or test light on the wire and ground the other testing device terminal you can test it.

Just place the testing device where you can see it or have a helper observe it. Then try a normal startup. The test equipment should show that power is going through the wire. The power should pulse a few times and then stop. If you have NO power at that point, you need to follow the wiring I mentioned earlier and find out where the power stops. That part should be the bad part. You want to restore power to the Glowplugs.

If the wires to the Glowplugs have power, there is the remote possibility the Glowplugs are burned out. To test them yourself, they can be removed and connected to jumper cables and briefly energized. The Glowplugs that stay dark are bad.

The fuel system is another matter. First try a new fuel filter to replace a water clogged filter. It is also beneficial to find that fuel is in the fuel filter and that it is not dry. If the fuel filter is dry, then you most likely are bleeding off your fuel overnight. This will require testing the fuel line by using either a Vacuum tester or air compressor and removing and plugging one line end. The line should not leak.

Diesels absolutely require the Glowplugs to work and they work shorter periods in hot temperatures. You just have the pulses to heat up the Glowplugs. So if the Glowplugs are weak, it will show up in hot weather too.

As for the Injection pump, there are Electric solenoids in some which sometimes respond to a "tap" to get them going again. This will mean pump repair to finally repair it. A Diesel shop can also measure output pressure, which , I want to say can be 1300PSI. Beyond the capability of an Owner to do himself.

I hope this helps you and I would be very interested to know what you found.

Hello, Its just like changing sparkplugs. First, you should check the timer for proper operation before blaming the glowplugs. The timer is the part where the wires on the glowplugs come from. Its' the Timers job to heat up the glowplugs and there is a Relay which activates the timer.

Once the Timer gets power from the Relay, it sends spark to the glowplugs and measures the amount of juice flowing through the glowplugs. When a predetermined limit is achieved, the Timer shuts down and sets a light on the dashboard that you can start the engine.

If you have a bad glowplug, that cylinder will not fire cold and the engine will miss, run rough , and spew black smoke out the tailpipe. A complete changeout of the glowplugs will solve the problem, but individual glowplugs can be tested and changed independently at a lower cost.

To test a glowplug, you can use jumper cables and apply voltage to the glowplug in limited amounts or you will melt the glowplug. Best to place the negative on the base and avoid the threads. Then touch the top of the glowplug and watch to see how quick it turns bright. Its a matter of comparison, and the darker the glowplug stays, the worse it is.

There is no adjustment on the glowplug, just swap them out and you will be fine. I hope my solution is very helpful to you. You can check the Timer with a voltmeter by removing a glowplug wire and hooking the hot lead from your meter and grounding the other wire on your engine. When you turn the key to the warmup position, the meter should briefly show power.

Hello, A diesel engine depends on the Glowplugs to start when the engine is cold. After the engine is running, it uses compression to continue.

This would mean you have a problem with the Glowplugs and the Glowplug Timer. The Timer is the device which works with the "Ready" light in the dash. The Timer will click off/on and can make the lights dim in sync with the clicks. The Timer is also responsive to temperature change; the colder the outside temperature, the longer the clicks cycle.

You also should pull the glowplugs and individually check them. Usually do 1 Bank at a time so you have 4 to chose from. Take a Battery jumper cable and connect one end to the base of the glowplug without damaging the threads and ground the cable end. Then take the other cable and connect one end to the hot post of the battery.

Touch the top of the Glowplug with the Pos battery jumper and be careful not to melt the Glowplug. When you get a good one it will glow quick and bright. When the glowplug stays dark or takes a long time to glow, it is bad. This is why I recommend doing 4 at a time. It is a matter of comparision. The short time is the real world example of mimicking the Glowplug timer. If you can not heat the Glowplug, the Timer will not either.

Once you get all the Glowplugs working like they should, you can evaluate the Timer. It may need replacing too! If you turn the Key to Run and let the "Ready" light work, the truck should start. If it does not, turn the Key and cycle the Timer 2 or 3 Times. Then try it. By repeated cycling of the Timer, if the truck starts better, it means your Timer is not staying on long enough for the glowplugs to work. Replace the timer.

Keep clean oil in the engine and consider "Flow" products to help the fuel and oil work better in Cold weather.

There is also a TSB 08-18-6. It is about low pressure on the Injection devices. Exhibits hard starting, no start condition.

I hope my solution is very helpful to you. You could give me feedback on the end solution for your problem.

Sometimes there is a Solenoid inside the Injector pump which responds well to a hammer handle tap. You can also connect a test light to a glowplug wire and see if the Timer is cycling. You need to have the glowplugs working for your cold starts.

If you have fire at the glowplug wire and are convinced you have fuel, you may need to check each glowplug. Remove at least 1 bank at a time. Hook up jumper cables to each glowplug and being careful with the threads clamp the Neg cable to the base and just touch the Pos to the top.

A good glowplug will get with it instantly. A bad glowplug will stay dark or never get up to the best operating heat. Be careful not to melt the glowplugs, but once you find your best glowplug you will see what I mean. Or you can buy 1 new, and compare all of yours to the new one.

Fuel, there are winter and summer blends. You may have gone to a station with Summer fuel.You need to add fuel thinners and water removers to the fuel in your tanks. Check your fuel separator and perhaps slip in a new fuel filter.

I hope this helps get you going.

You should check the Glowplug Timer. Most likely it is the Timer because the Diesels need the Glowplugs working to start. Then they fire from compression.

So even though the Starting Fluid reached the cylinders and the Fluid has a better Ignition point, it still needs hot Glowplugs.

You can check a few wires on the Glowplugs by using a voltmeter or Test light. Unplug each wire and then turn the key to On and observe if the Tester pulses a few times before your Ready Indicator goes out on the dash. If the Timer is not firing the Glowplug, test the power wire TO the timer. There should be a Relay for it.

You can jump the Power lead to the Timer and let the Timer heat the Glowplugs. Remove the jumper after the "Clicking" stops. Then repeat. Now hit it with a spray of Starting Fluid and see if she will run.

Then backtrack the Power wire to the Relay and see if the Relay is getting power. There could be a fusible link to the Relay that is burned out.

Would be interested to learn what you found. Autozone and Oreillys can sometimes pull up locations for the components they sell.

sounds like poss low fuel pressure, have that tested.

theres a small toggle switch on the fan

that switch is to change direction on the way the fan is blowing

one direction for downward blowing

the other direction is for upward blowing

depends on the area you have to determine which is the best, but i doubt area restriction will hamper force air blowing, air will flow regardless, the area might be big so you dont feel it.

as being living in the attic, HOT AIR rises, so you might want to invest in some installation for the ceiling, because whent he sun hit the roof, it will create an oven effect, in your living area. the hot air is always present, you should have a ventilation fan blowing the hot air out, like thru a small window, the more hot air you blow out, the better.

not sure if this make sense. not sure how big the room is, as FANs are NOISY by nature.



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