Ignition switch seems to be jammed - ignition spark on continually

on my stove i get spark on all four burners no matter which one is turned on and that spark continues until i turn the burner down from the "light" position.. that's the way mine is made to work..

You MUST NOT light the oven manually and must not use it if it continues to spark. More info is needed, make model etc
George

This should not be a problem as the setup is it doesn't know which gas knob has been turned on, therefore the oven and grill spark to ignite either .

Hope this is helpful

Regards
John

PS if I had known the make and model number you can probably get a manual online.

It is very possible that moisture from the cleaning has caused the ignition switches to make enough resistance to cause the burners to spark. It usually goes away after the stove has dried out. If it continues after a day or so one or more of the ignitor switches may need replacing.

Many modern gas stoves, ovens, furnaces, and other similar appliances use an electronic ignition rather than a continuously burning pilot flame to ignite the fuel. These are actually simple high voltage pulse generators.

• Where starting is manual (there is a 'start' position on the control(s), a set of switch contacts on the control(s) provides power to the ignition module.
  
  • A problem of no spark with only one control indicates that the fault is with it or its wiring.
    
  • A problem with continuous sparking even with all the controls off or in their normal positions indicates a short - either due to a defective switch in one of the controls or contamination bypassing the switch contacts.
  
  
• Where starting is automatic, an electronic sensor, thermocouple, or bimetal switch provides power to the ignition module as needed.

The Harper-Wyman Model 6520 Kool Lite(tm) module is typical of those found in Jenne-Aire and similar cook-tops. Input is 115 VAC, 4 mA, 50/60 Hz AC. C1 and D1 form a half wave doubler resulting in 60 Hz pulses with a peak of about 300 V and at point A and charges C2 to about 300 V through D2. R2, C3, and DL1 form a relaxation oscillator triggering SCR1 to dump the charge built up on C2 into T1 with a repetition rate of about 2 Hz. C1 A D1 T1 o H o----||----------------+-------|>|-------+-------+ +-----o HVP+ .1 uF D2 1N4007 | 1N4007 | | o ::( 250 V +----|>|----+ | +--+ ::( | | | )::( +---/\/\----+ | #20 )::( 1:35 | R1 1M | C2 _|_ )::( | R2 / 1 uF --- +--+ ::( | 18M \ DL1 400 V | __|__ ::( | / NE-2 | _\_/_ +-----o HVP- | | +--+ | / | | +----|oo|----+---------' | SCR1 | C3 | +--+ | | | S316A | .047 uF _|_ R3 / | | 400 V | 250 V --- 180 \ | | 1 A | | / | | R4 2.7K | | | | | N o---/\/\---+-----------+------------+----+-------+

Hello there: The oven bake burner and ignition components are located beneath the oven cavity. In most cases the oven bottom panel can be removed for access (check your owner's manual) but on some models the oven burner has to be accessed from below in the warming or broiler drawer area. If accessing from the top, a 'flame spreader' (flat metal plate) above the burner may also need to be removed to see the burner itself.Many ovens use a single oven burner in which case they only have a single gas valve and ignitor. The same burner is used for both bake and broil functions, the broil usually being in the drawer area below the oven. Higher-end models may have a separate bake and broil burner. On such a system there will be two ignitors, one for each burner. They may also employ a 'dual' gas valve (see illustration above) instead of using a separate valve for each burner.Some range models may have an additional broil burner located at the top of the oven cavity which may be referred to as a 'waist high' broil. If not, broiling usually takes place in the drawer area below the oven, which uses the same bake burner for the broil function. Most gas ranges currently available employ one of 3 basic gas ignition systems; pilot ignition, hot surface ignition system (which uses a 'glow bar' or 'glow coil' - aka an "ignitor") and a spark ignition system. The latter two being referred to as "electronic ignition" systems as they use electricity in one form or another to operate the oven heating system. Only the pilot ignition system has an actual "pilot" (which is a small but real "flame") which might need manual lighting.
If the surface burners of a range are a spark ignition type, the oven IS one of the possible kinds of electronic ignition systems and thus will not usually have a "pilot" which needs lighting. Be aware though that just because the surface burners might light via a spark doesn't necessarily mean the oven uses the spark type ignition system too.
There is one older style of electronic ignition system which does also use an oven pilot but it is very rare and such a system hasn't been used in oven models since the early to mid 70's. It is the 'constant pilot' *electronic ignition* system.


Making Observations
The oven burner's operation will usually need to be directly observed while in operation as the first step to troubleshooting problems.Ignition System Type Links
Ignition System Types:

Pilot Ignition

Electronic Ignition with Constant Pilot (rare)

Electronic Ignition with Glow Ignitor (most common)

Spark Ignition System

Is there continuity between the oven gas valve's terminals?


Hot Surface ('Glow Bar') Ignition System (most common)
This is the most popular system currently used for ovens and is comprised of a control mechanism (whether thermostat or electronic control), the oven ignitor and an oven gas valve.


What happens in this style ignition system is that the thermostat or electronic control switches power to the oven ignitor and gas valve circuit which are connected in series (one after the other). As power flows through the ignitor it heats and draws current (measured in amperage). Once the oven ignitor draws a specific amount of current the oven valve opens to allow gas to flow to the oven burner where the glowing hot ignitor (glow bar) ignites it. Power must continually flow through the ignitor and oven gas valve for gas to be released into the oven burner to create a flame.

It should usually only take in the area of 30-90 seconds for the oven ignitor to reach the proper resistance to allow the proper amperage to reach the gas valve to open it and for the ignitor to ignite the gas at the oven burner.

If your oven is relatively new, it has an automatic ignition system underneath the flame spreader. You can check to see if there is a small spark or glow when you turn the gas on. If not, the ignition is probably bad. If you see a spark but the gas doesn't ignite, there is a break in the system continuity. The system shuts down for safety. You may need to replace the ignition, a job that might be best left to a qualified tech.

Some have a AAA battery under the button - replace this, others use mains to create the spark, ensure you have the ignition wired up

This sounds like you have a flame switch getting ready to go out. The reason you are hearing the ticking noise is that after the ignition is satisfied the flame switch is not detecting and sending a signal to continue to try for ignition.