Manually Put into defrost

the defrost cycle should come on about every 8-12 hours. You may have a defrost timer issue? I suggest testing it and the heating element with a multi meter.

Ur timer may be activating to fast for each cycle

The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small ***** driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required


God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.

A frost free refrigerator must defrost itself.
it appears that you have a bad component in the defrost system. first try to advance the defrost time into "defrost cycle" if it start to defrost, replace the timer, if not, replace defrost heater and thermostat.

Frigidaire equips most of its refrigerator models with automatic defrosting capabilities. This means that owners don't have to set a calendar reminder to manually defrost. The internal automatic defrost control and timing mechanism is placed at the bottom of most Frigidaire refrigerators, next to the stationary pan that captures water - even the defrosted meltwater is automatically evaporated. You might be confused about how the defrost timer works, thinking it is broken. Frigidaire understood this might be an issue for some owners and suggests double-checking the defroster for normal operation because it may not be malfunctioning at all.

Read more: http://www.ehow.com/how_12165725_troubleshooting-frigidaire-defrost-timer.html#ixzz32x8RyDGe

Hi,

A mechanical defrost timer controls the defrost cycle of the freezer. In older models, the timer runs continuously and roughly every six hours, cuts power to the cooling system and sends power to the defrost heater. In newer models the timer advances only while the compressor or defrost cycle is running - an improvement for efficiency. As the timer continues to advance, power to the heating element is cut and power is restored to the cooling system. I believe your refrigerator is on defrost.

unplug the unit, and using a hair dryer, let it blow warm air for a couple of hours, in the freezer area