Frigidaire Refrigerators - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

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My Frigidaire side by side icemaker doesn't make ice?

https://www.frigidaire.com/Owner-Center/FAQs/Refrigerators/what-should-i-do-if-my-ice-maker-is-not-making-any-ice-in-my-refrigerator/
10/9/2021 9:05:31 PM • Frigidaire... • Answered on Oct 09, 2021
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I have a Frigidaire model # FFHX2325TP. Ice Maker and water stopped working when water heater was installed?

is the water running into the unit check valve is open and check for clog
10/8/2021 12:18:49 AM • Frigidaire... • Answered on Oct 08, 2021
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My Frigidaire gallery fridge not cooling at all

Are you calling the compressor condenser? My gallery side by side stopped cooling the refrigerator side and it was the control board under the refrigerator side. Also, just because the control board is new does not guarantee it is good. There are a lot of youtube videos on trouble shooting the Gallery. You might not have plugged in all the connectors when you changed the board, or maybe bent some pins.
10/6/2021 2:10:37 PM • Frigidaire... • Answered on Oct 06, 2021
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Frigidaire upright freezer will not maintain temperature

Bad connection, faulty power supply, faulty door switch. etc etc etc.
10/3/2021 7:50:39 AM • Frigidaire... • Answered on Oct 03, 2021
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Door water dispenser not working after power outage

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

The power outage is significant. It is most likely that the electronic controller circuitry was affected. This would be part # 38 in this exploded parts diagram. To check and confirm, a DVM/VOM would be required to test the output/relays of the electronic board. Additionally, this calls for testing the aforementioned PCB (printed circuit board) live and therefore voltages on wiring and terminals openly exposed. Repairs would then involve familiarity working with electronic/electrical components and circuitry, use of a DVM/VOM and safe handling of the internals of a live appliance.

Incidentally, the filter is common to both water and ice dispensers. Hence if ice is available, then the filter would presumably be good.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.
9/25/2021 5:38:54 PM • Frigidaire... • Answered on Sep 25, 2021
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My Frigidaire ultrawf water filter will not stay installed after it clicks

Hi- not sure if it will help but I had issues getting it out. What I found is the plastic casing (fridge) needed a little twist/push. Play with it- hold the filter in and GENTLY push/pull/twist slightly the fridge housing.
9/19/2021 2:56:47 AM • Frigidaire... • Answered on Sep 19, 2021
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I have a frigidaire frs23 side by side fridge. The fridge side started freezing and the freezer was not freezing, but still cold.

FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage. Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly. Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air. But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer. Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. THE COMPRESSOR: If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed. To check ur compressor with multi meter: Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing. You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur start winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground. Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms. Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810. The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required. 1-3 TEMPERATURE CONTROL As the food in the fridge gets colder, it gives off less heat, and the air inside the fridge will remain colder. A thermostat called aCOLD CONTROLwill cycle the cooling system on and off to keep the temperature inside your fridge within a certain range. You can adjust that range using one of the dials within your fridge. On most fridges, all the cold air for both the food compartment and the freezer compartment is produced in one evaporator. Since the freezer is so much colder than the food compartment, most of the cold air that is produced circulates to the freezer compartment. Only a small amount is needed in the food compartment to keep it down to the proper temperature. This amount is adjusted by a smallAIR DOORin the duct between the evaporator and the food compartment. The control for this air door is the other of the two dials within your fridge. If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold control thermostat ( in the fridge compartment) with an alligator jumper. You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms- If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it. To test or change the cold control, first Pull the knob off it and remove any plastic cover plate or housing from it. You will see two wires leading to it. There will also be a thick, stiffCAPILLARY TUBEattached. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometer The air damper, baffle or diffuser is the device that balances the air flow from the evaporator fan housing. This normally is a mechanically controlled baffle or flapper that controls the amount of cold air entering the fresh food compartment. If the baffle is damaged or the linkage to the control knob is damaged, then you may not have enough cold air entering the fresh food compartment resulting in higher than normal temperatures. This baffle or damper will be located where the cold air enters the fresh food compartment. Read more: http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqXN-ZCuptk THIRMISTOR CHECK https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZFeiWgtuk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-L80Fk5had4 defrost timer REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE"
9/17/2021 10:27:33 AM • Frigidaire... • Answered on Sep 17, 2021
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Frigidaire UF 21CW22. Defrosted it with the special feature. Why doesn't it get cold again?

FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage. Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly. Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air. But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer. Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. THE COMPRESSOR: If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed. To check ur compressor with multi meter: Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing. You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur start winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground. Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms. Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810. The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required. 1-3 TEMPERATURE CONTROL As the food in the fridge gets colder, it gives off less heat, and the air inside the fridge will remain colder. A thermostat called aCOLD CONTROLwill cycle the cooling system on and off to keep the temperature inside your fridge within a certain range. You can adjust that range using one of the dials within your fridge. On most fridges, all the cold air for both the food compartment and the freezer compartment is produced in one evaporator. Since the freezer is so much colder than the food compartment, most of the cold air that is produced circulates to the freezer compartment. Only a small amount is needed in the food compartment to keep it down to the proper temperature. This amount is adjusted by a smallAIR DOORin the duct between the evaporator and the food compartment. The control for this air door is the other of the two dials within your fridge. If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold control thermostat ( in the fridge compartment) with an alligator jumper. You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms- If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it. To test or change the cold control, first Pull the knob off it and remove any plastic cover plate or housing from it. You will see two wires leading to it. There will also be a thick, stiffCAPILLARY TUBEattached. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometer The air damper, baffle or diffuser is the device that balances the air flow from the evaporator fan housing. This normally is a mechanically controlled baffle or flapper that controls the amount of cold air entering the fresh food compartment. If the baffle is damaged or the linkage to the control knob is damaged, then you may not have enough cold air entering the fresh food compartment resulting in higher than normal temperatures. This baffle or damper will be located where the cold air enters the fresh food compartment. Read more: http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqXN-ZCuptk THIRMISTOR CHECK https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZFeiWgtuk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-L80Fk5had4 defrost timer REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE" defrost timer refigerator temp control and defrost timer-za4sl1jd21htrezsypy4b1wj-6-0.jpg defrost timer testing defrost timer pins-za4sl1jd21htrezsypy4b1wj-6-2.jpg cold control thermostat wireing-za4sl1jd21htrezsypy4b1wj-6-3.jpg thermistor locationboththermistors-za4sl1jd21htrezsypy4b1wj-6-9.jpg
9/17/2021 10:26:18 AM • Frigidaire... • Answered on Sep 17, 2021
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2018 upright freezer. Why does it go into automatic defrost and stays there?

Automatic defrost systems are better at reducing maintenance costs than fridges with a manual defrost system.
9/11/2021 2:05:41 AM • Frigidaire... • Answered on Sep 11, 2021
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1answer

Model FFRA051WA1 Frigidaire 5000BTU window AC unit - it does not drain any water outside or anywhere.

It uses the condensation to cool the coil. It is normal to not see any water
9/6/2021 10:31:21 PM • Frigidaire... • Answered on Sep 06, 2021
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1answer

What water filter should I buy for the ice maker in a Frigidaire Gallery GLHT214TJS refrigerator?

The filter supplied by the manufacturer.
9/6/2021 6:32:42 PM • Frigidaire... • Answered on Sep 06, 2021
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1answer

Frigidaire frt22irsh do la93117128 stop making ice

The wiresignal arm is located above the cube bin.
9/6/2021 4:54:16 AM • Frigidaire... • Answered on Sep 06, 2021
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2answers

How do I get the drawer out of my fridge. It is the drawer that is on its own in the middle of the fridge. It is on two side rails and it only comes out 2/3 of the way. Model is FRT17G4BW3

Thank you for your inquiry, friend!

I see that you would like to remove the drawer on your Frigidaire refrigerator, FRT17G4BW3. Typically, to remove that drawer you would need to pull it out and lift up on the shelf. It is on a track and there should be a stopper within the rack so that the drawer does not fall out. I hope this information has been helpful. -Matt

9/4/2021 1:00:58 PM • Frigidaire... • Answered on Sep 04, 2021
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1answer

Exterior finish on stainless steel model peeling

Just a thought. Our frigidaire stainless steel refrigerator came with a temorary protective film on the steel parts that we peeled off after it was installed. Is it possible you never removed your film when you got your refrigerator? That may be what is starting to peel off now. Again, just a thought, I could be wrong.
8/26/2021 7:22:08 PM • Frigidaire... • Answered on Aug 26, 2021
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2answers

Frigidaire Gallery FRS26ZGEB - 12 years old

you have a defrost problem or damper problem or evapator fan

1) Check the fan in the freezer is running

2) defrost the freezer (leave unpluged with door open for 24 to 48 hrs or untill it stops leaking water...


3) check the damper make sure it is opening and cold air is blowing

How you need to repair what defrost part failed
The defrost systems is:
218169802 HEATER-DEFROST
5303917954 THERMOSTAT-DEFROST
5303917954 TIMER-DEFROST

Start with the timer. It is just under the front kick plate. there is a knob you can turn it slowly.until it clicks off the compressor. then open the freezer and listen . You should hear the heater come on .. it will sizzle when it comes on ...
You will have to remove the back panel of the freezer to check the heater for and thermostat for continuity. Heater are the lease likely part to go bad... I always change thermostat and timers together.
let me know if this helps or we can chat if you need more help.
8/17/2021 2:41:54 PM • Frigidaire... • Answered on Aug 17, 2021
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2answers

Side by side. Why is water filter freezing?

Hi Jimmy, thank you for your inquiry!

From my understanding the water filter inside of your Frigidaire refrigerator is freezing. The freezing could be caused due to the internal temperature inside of your refrigerator being too low. To unfreeze your filter you can perform a defrost cycle on your refrigerator or turn up the internal temperature. If that does not work to correct your issue it may be a problem within the filter and you may need to replace the filter. Hopefully this is helpful. -Matt

8/14/2021 8:34:35 PM • Frigidaire... • Answered on Aug 14, 2021
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1answer

I have a Frigidaire FRT21LRG fridge that is in the fridge. Few days ago, it stopped working. The blower was on but condenser was not. So I looked at the rear panel and the overload relay capacitor was burnt out. So I got new parts and replaced it. Refrigerator immediately worked but the issue is the fridge is on all the time. We don’t have a lot of stuff in the fridge so we didn’t notice how long that’s been going on. I’m guessing this is related to some kind of temperature sensor? If so which one should I be looking at? Thanks for the help in advance.

Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation: first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice. AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section. u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS . Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmdsBkO46dk defrost therm. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SJN8oaA2XE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buX9KcZo2c0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVXT7pZyk_o https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZFeiWgtuk God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me. Fridge FAN CONTINUALLY STAYS ON OR SHUTS OFF WHEN DOOR IS OPENED: NORMALLY WHEN THIS HAPPENS U EITHER HAVE A DOOR CONTINUALLY OPEN ISSUE OR A BAD DOOR SEAL LETTING AIR IN AND CAUSING FAN TO OVERWORK ITSELF. ANOTHER CAUSE CAN BE DIRTY COILS AND CONDENSER AND LASTLY NOT TO COMMON IS A SHORT IN THE FAN SYSTEM ITSELF. A MORE PROBABLE CAUSE COULD BE BAD THERMISTORS OR EVEN COLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT ( WHEN THE THERMISTORS OR THERMOSTAT DO NOT GET/GIVE A PROPER READING, THEY CAN CAUSE THE FAN TO CONTINUE TO OPERATE AS THEY FAIL TO RECOGNIZE OR REGULATE THE PROPER TEMPERATURE. http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html defrost timer testing defrost timer pins-undefined-undefined-0_6.jpg defrost timer refigerator temp control and defrost timer-undefined-undefined-1.jpg defrost timer refigerator temp control and defrost timer-undefined-undefined-2_2.jpg defrost timer location defrost terminator-undefined-undefined-4_0.jpg cold control thermostat wireing-undefined-undefined-9_0.jpg
8/14/2021 11:38:50 AM • Frigidaire... • Answered on Aug 14, 2021
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Ice melting in ice maker. Frigidaire Model JBND-26 ice maker

Ice Maker Is Frozen Up This ice maker repair is even easier. If your ice maker has frozen up, take the following steps to thaw it out: 1Unplug the refrigerator.Remove the ice bin from the refrigerator and remove any loose ice from the ice maker. 2Find the fill tube.This is awhite rubber-like hose that delivers water to the ice maker. Pull down the small metal clip off the housing that holds the fill tube (though not all ice makers have this clip). 3Warm the hoseand surrounding mechanism. To do this, you can train a hair dryer on the ice maker to melt any ice blocking the mechanism. But be very careful (sop up any dripping water with a rag) as electricity and water can present a serious risk of electrical shock. Also, be careful not to melt the plastic parts. 4If you don't want to use a hair dryer,you can soak the supply tubing with hot water, using a turkey baster and catching the overflow in the empty ice maker bin. In some cases, it may be easier to remove the ice maker than to thaw out the fill tube. On heat release ice makers You will want to check the heating element within the ice maker for continuity and a visual inspection of the board and conductors for burns and seizing, chared marks.How to Test the Ice Mold Heater There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver. Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. It is easier to work on this type of unit by first removing the entireicemakerfrom the freezer compartment. The unit is usually mounted to the freezer case by two or more screws. Remove the bottom screws first. While supporting the ice maker, remove the remaining top screws. Unplug the ice maker from the freezer cabinet if you have not already done so. Along the edge nearest the shutoff arm, a pin protrudes through the mounting plate . The arm pin has a spring under the mounting plate. Reduce the tension on the spring by moving the shutoff arm into the "on" position, down, against the ice maker. Test the heater for resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each of the two terminals (or wires). The reading should be in the range of 60 to 90 ohms. If you get a significantly different reading, such as zero or infinity, then the mold heater is bad and needs to be replaced. Conduct this test with the refrigerator unplugged. Test the moldheaterfor resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place one probe into the hole labeled "H" and the other probe into the hole labeled "L". The multitester should read in the range of 60 to 90 ohms. Also be sure to check and test water valve with a meter for continuity and voltage..( a full 120 and nothing less) And a visual inspection for any ice build up or blockage in tubing and flow line. Remember u may get a close circuit reading of continuity however it may still be bad in that it may remain constantly closed and water keeps flowing more than suppose to. Hence chunks of ice build up. : God is the reason I give you free advice so God is good! http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html ice maker water level adjustment ice maker-undefined-undefined-0.jpg ice-maker-how-it-works-undefined-undefined-1.jpg
8/14/2021 11:01:37 AM • Frigidaire... • Answered on Aug 14, 2021
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