Broil only, no Bake

If your built-in electric oven is getting to temperature and then quitting during a bake cycle, and the upper heating element is not working during the bake cycle but works on the broil setting, it is possible that the problem is with the bake element. Here are some troubleshooting steps you can take:

1. Check the bake element: The bake element is the heating element located at the bottom of the oven. To check if the bake element is working properly, turn on the oven and set it to bake mode. Open the oven door and look at the bake element. It should be glowing red. If it is not, then the bake element is likely faulty and needs to be replaced.
2. Check the oven temperature sensor: The oven temperature sensor is a small probe that is located inside the oven. Its job is to monitor the temperature inside the oven and communicate that information to the oven's control board. If the sensor is faulty, it may cause the oven to shut off prematurely. You can test the sensor with a multimeter to see if it is working properly. If it is not, then it needs to be replaced.
3. Check the oven control board: If both the bake element and the oven temperature sensor are working properly, then the problem may be with the oven's control board. The control board is responsible for controlling the oven's heating elements and other functions. If it is faulty, it may be shutting off the oven prematurely. In this case, the control board will need to be replaced.

It is recommended to hire a qualified technician to perform these tests and replace any faulty parts to avoid any risks of electrical shock or damage to the oven.

Look at the wiring diagram... The manual reset Thermal Limiter Switch (part number 74008715), located on the lower rear insulation retainer can keep both elements from working, not one at a time... I would inspect the back of the bake relay for a burnt/failing solder joint. Swapping the BAKE and BROIL leads is an acceptable test, but if you put the bake leads on the broil and still get no heat: check the control relay. If the broil leads will not heat the bake element, you have a bad element or bad connection. Be sure to do all testing of the elements with at least one wire detached so as not to red a back circuit.

Understand that I am not a professional, so this answer is subject to revision by someone who is more knowledgeable.

Where I live now I'm on Natural Gas, but in the past I've had electric stove/ovens. Based on my best recall the situation you describe is NOT abnormal.

When in the Broil mode, the Bake element is NOT on, but the Broil element is on FULL-bore to provide that strong radiant heat required for the Broiling process, AND for the good browning /crusting of the product being Broiled!!!!!

On the other hand, when Baking, not broiling, IF the Broiling element were on high it would provide too much radiant heat to the top of the product being Baked, and would burn the top.

While Baking, by energizing the Broil element in a lower power setting, the Baking process is enhanced with more heat by the assistance of the Broiler element, BUT without the hazard of burning on the top!!!!!

Hope this is right and helps your understanding.

Bake and broil elements can be tested with an ohm meter for continuity. There is a relay in control / clock for both bake and broil elements. If elements test good, then those relays need to be tested for voltage.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start

Hello - - If you are referring to the bake element, but the broil element works then you would need to just replace the bake element. If both your bake and broil element does not work, then there might be a problem with the wiring communication. However, if the oven does not bake and/or broil but the cook top works; contact a professional to diagnose the EOC (electronic oven control).

Hello -

If you are referring to the bake element, but the broil element works then you would need to just replace the bake element. If both your bake and broil element does not work, then there might be a problem with the wiring communication. However, if the oven does not bake and/or broil but the cook top works, contact a professional to have the EOC (electronic oven control) diagnosed.

Do you have a volt reader?

I have the same problem. Just swap the 2 wires that are marked as 'broil' and 'bake' on the controller board. But sometimes it switches back, then I have to swap the wires again.

You might want to leave the 'broil' post unconnected to prevent burning food..

On these older ovens ther is usually always 120 volts on the elements at all times.
If you check across the element ends with it in bake you should read 240V. If not, there is a problem with the control. With the voltage drop you describe, it sounds like you are losing power on one line of voltage coming to the element.
Post back to let me know what you find out or if you have any questions.