Fridge/freezer doesn't work although light on

Check the door switch operation.

Ive just had the same issue as the op with the same model fridge. The warranty center said to adjust the front level feet to elivate the front of the unit open both doors , defrost for 8-12 hours at least. This seems to be a problem in the colder months of the year. Once a full defrost has occurred level the feet again , and turn your fridge back on. Problem solved

My advice would be to go for a new one as the product you are holding is more than 8 years old. Although, obviously new is going to be a little on the expensive side as compared to getting this one fixed but technology has moved a long way in the last 8 years. Thus, your current Freezer is going to consume more electricity and even after being repaired, the performance shall not be optimal. While, the new Refrigerator not only is going to be Lessen your electricity bill but shall be a better choice both in terms of Style, Structure, Optimization and Performance.

I have the same problem with my F&P fridge/freezer although I'm not sure how old it is because I bought it from my landlord when he moved out. I call the repairman who said turn it off and defrost the freezer. I turned it off last night, defrosted the freezer as there was some ice build up internally at the rear and turned it on again. It went fine, I set it at the coldest (gauge on colder) setting and this morning it was quite cold. Today I get home from work and it's hardly cold, no condensation on the lemonade or beer bottles! Will be interested to hear others thoughts before I call the repair man again. thanks, Jenny

Mark Remove the rear panel in freezer. Apply 3n1 oil to fan motor shaft and plug in and spin. I believe they left the freezer shut and the moisture froze the shaft on fan with rust. Once restarted you will be fine. Sea Breeze

It seems to me that there is a leak of gas from your unit.This is if you have 1 compressor/motor)If there is two compressors on unit then it can be thermostat for fridge.Anyhow check if motor is running all the time and is wery hot, if it is there is to little gas in system .This should be covered by guarantee.Jan

After looking at some advice from others I turned the internal dial to the OFF position, then turned it back to 6 or 7, and left it for 20 minutes, and it is now freezing again.

It's still under guarantee. Take it back now. 

I had this exact problem with my 4 yr old Samsung RB1855SL refrigerator. BTW, the temperature display doesn’t display higher than 9C, even when its warmer inside. The fan wasn’t turning on to circulate the cold air, although the cooling coils were still cooling. There was no excess ice build-up. The freezer was working fine.

I thought perhaps the fan was toast or the temperature sensor. Then I noticed the interior fridge light was not turning off when closing the door (but the freezer light was). BINGO—thig light switch was the problem. A small piece on the inside of the fridge side of the switch was broken. When the door was closed, the broken switch didn’t let the fridge know that the door was in fact closed, causing the door alarm to keep beeping. This must shut the fan down in order to save energy when regularly opening the door.

DIY fix: I removed the switch (until I could get a replacement) which is located to the left of the lower door hinge (right hand side). Gently, with a flat nose screw driver, I pried it out.

The light no longer turned on when opening either door but that was a small price to pay compared to the incessant beeping and rotten food. The part can’t be very expensive and I can replace it myself. The local appliance repair shop will order it for me.

No expensive “internal brain” needed to be replaced or an expensive repairman needed to be called. Good luck!