With the t-stat on high and a garage temp of 20 degrees it doesn't stay on. It cycles. T-stat?

check the pressure sensor switch is the clutch cycling is the heat door staying open

if you have 20 degrees difference that is quite a bit of a difference.i would say that the heater core is plugging up,remember the fan blowing air across the core is cooling the temp more and with a 20 degree difference its alot.you can try to run CLR through it a couple of times to see if it will help flush out more dirt.sometimes flushing just doesn`t do it.

probably,there is a garage kit available that willallow it to work at colder temps,listed in owners manule under accessories the thermostat senses refrig compartment temps.soif garage temp is below 40 or so the thermostat just doen't turn the unit on enough or not at all

Its a bad high limit temp switch or sensor in the furnace that is out. The sensor is telling the board that the heat ex-changer is not cool enough to turn of the fan. www.fastacservice.com

If you are calling for heat and the thermostat is set for 2 degrees higher than room temp, the heat pump and strips come on.
When the room temp and stat temp are less than 2 degrees the strips turn off.
That is, unless the installer wired the t-stat for the strips to stay on.
If they are coming on in the air/cool mode then you have a bad heat relay or a t-stat wire shorted.

Is it reaching the temp. set on the T-stat? Is the T-stat digital? If so the differential on the T-stat(the temp.difference between where it turns on and turns off) is probably set at about .5 degrees. I recommend changing it to 1.5 degrees. The instructions to reset it should be in the T-stat manual.

recovery has nothing to do with on off on off. you have a new digital stat that holds an exact to the degree temp a change of a half a degree can bring it on.. so stat needs to be above main return 5 feet off floor. away from any drafts , doors supplys etc. also be sure the hole in the wall is sealed . the cold air in the wall is more than enough to make stat come on . they are incredibly sensitive.an old mercury bulb stat would have a swin g of 3 or 4 degrees . so set at 75 it may heat up to 78 and stay off till temp fell to 73 so you get a longer run cycle or and longer off cycle. the new ones are on off on off keeping a perfect temp 75 exactly. thory is the heat exchanger is already hot and a quick short cycle is more efficient than being off 20 minutes and reheating the heatexchanger from scratch again. having said that if you look aT the installer set up instructions that came with the stat it may give you an option to reset or adjust the stat so it will have a one (default) two, or three degree adjustment , so 75 equals up or down three degrees on call for heat.see honeywell toll free number in their literature

As a general rule set your t.sat 20 degrees below outside temp. Leave at this setting 30-45 minutes. Move down until comfortable no lower than 10 degrees below outside for 30-45 minutes. Unit should cycle normally. If it runs continuously then raise the t.stat 3 or 4 degrees up. The national average is 75-78. I usually keep mine set at 80 during the day here in Georgia and 74-78 at night...

ice cream is always the last to freeze and a temp of minus -10 degrees is usually required to get it to get hard. if you put the ice cream in the door it will be especially tough to freeze. a good thermometor is a good investment as you can observe the temps. usually ten degrees or 20 degrees is what they run. yes they do cycle on and off as long as they hold temps thats good. the outside of the freezer gets warm because the hot compressed refrigerant is spread through piping near its surface giving up its heat of compression . setting the stat to max will freeze the ice cream eventually but utility bill suffers . good luck

no but are you sure your replacement parts are correct the cycle stat is usally running about 140 - 160 temps did you switch the high one and the cycling wires or parts?